2008 Slammed Jeep Patriot

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

^ That's the idea!

Wire that switch so that it only has power when the vehicle is turned off. The VU4 manifold requires air pressure to keep its valves closed, so if someone were to press that button while driving and dump your tank's air pressure, your car will air out. Not super cool.

This can also be solved by putting a check valve inline on the inlet to the VU4, but since there's never any reason to dump the tank when the car is running, wiring the switch correctly is an easier, cheaper solution.

[Creation]

How would I wire the switch to only have power when the car is off? I know the power line would need to be directly wired to the battery for a constant pull, but how could I prevent the switch from working? The only way making sense in my brain is to have a second switch much like a safety. When the first switch is toggled, it allows power to move freely, when the switch is off, the drain switch is dead.

^ That's the idea!

Wire that switch so that it only has power when the vehicle is turned off. The VU4 manifold requires air pressure to keep its valves closed, so if someone were to press that button while driving and dump your tank's air pressure, your car will air out. Not super cool.

This can also be solved by putting a check valve inline on the inlet to the VU4, but since there's never any reason to dump the tank when the car is running, wiring the switch correctly is an easier, cheaper solution.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Use a 5-pin relay. Pin 87A is normally-closed. Feed pin 30 12V constant (fused, obviously), give 85 accessory power, 86 ground, leave 87 open, and send the switch power from 87A. Car turns on, switch loses power. Car turns off, switch receives power.

[Creation]

The amount of knowledge you have is ridiculous. Thank you.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

My pleasure.

Occasionally being a grumpy old man has its advantages.

[mikey G]

I love the both of you. But lets get back to the build

[Creation]

I love the both of you. But lets get back to the build

Fine.

Parts have been ordered. Tank, compressors, wiring kits, and I'm searching for fittings Locally since BR was a little pricey and atleast if they are in a store I can mess around with them and be hands on.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

If you're getting PTC fittings locally, make sure they're DOT-rated. For SMC, this means fittings from the KV2 line, which will have a charcoal grey collar and will be marked as DOT-compliant.

Non-DOT compliant SMC fittings have a different seal design, and are much, much more picky about sealing against imperfect tube angles.

[Creation]

Hmmm, I'm not seeing anything about them being DOT compliant. I'll have to keep looking or just spend the money from BR.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

You don't need DOT-compliant NPT fittings - so long as they're quality brass or stainless, NPT is NPT, just in case you were looking at those too. If you're following my plan in the diagram + the electric tank drain, you just need to order 7x 3/8" PTC x 1/4" or 3/8" NPT male fittings from Bag Riders, and you can source all the NPT jazz locally. Should be $20-$25 + shipping.

I do like the female NPT tees that Bag Riders sells, though.

EDIT: Oh, and if you want a flow control valve on your exhaust, add in two more 3/8" PTC to whatever male NPT fittings.

EDIT 2 ELECTRIC BOOGALOO: Hang on, lemme update that diagram so you can see WTF I'm talking about.

[Creation]

I ordered the electronic drain and two fittings you recommended from BR while I had them on the phone So that's a go. Alex hooked me up with a great deal, including price matching so I'm well below my price I thought I'd be at right now.

You don't need DOT-compliant NPT fittings - so long as they're quality brass or stainless, NPT is NPT, just in case you were looking at those too. If you're following my plan in the diagram + the electric tank drain, you just need to order 7x 3/8" PTC x 1/4" or 3/8" NPT male fittings from Bag Riders, and you can source all the NPT jazz locally. Should be $20-$25 + shipping.

I do like the female NPT tees that Bag Riders sells, though.

EDIT: Oh, and if you want a flow control valve on your exhaust, add in two more 3/8" PTC to whatever male NPT fittings.

EDIT 2 ELECTRIC BOOGALOO: Hang on, lemme update that diagram so you can see WTF I'm talking about.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Right on, glad to hear they're taking care of you.

Here's an updated diagram with all the goodies we've been talking about:


You'll notice I've got dual feeds going to the VU4 and dual exhaust lines coming out of it. That's not absolutely necessary - you can run the VU4 just fine off a single feed and then plug the other port. I just doubled it up for visual symmetry. If you want to save a few bucks, you can eliminate those lines from the diagram and their associated fittings.

You also do not need to tie the exhaust and drain together into a single manifold, but it saves a couple fittings and it saves you having to run one line out to atmosphere. If it's easier to keep everything on the drain line below the bottom of the tank by pulling that manifold apart, by all means do so.

[Creation]

Look good? The safety valve was in my original order. I think this is it for the manifold setup.

[Creation]

I forgot to add the 10 3/8 PTC to 1/4. So add that as well.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Looks good to me, so long as you got a 200 psi safety valve. Depending on how you lay things out on the exhaust manifold / lack thereof, you might have an extra PTC to NPT piece, but who cares, it doesn't hurt to have a spare.

Don't forget you need a 1/4" MNPT to 1/8" FNPT bushing for the pressure sensor.

Swivel elbows are for the bags?