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2008 Slammed Jeep Patriot

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  • You're using the verb "flip" which makes me thing we might be talking about different things.

    Reversing the faces means mounting them from the backside, such that the flange on the lip and barrel is in front of the face. RSs are typically built this way. Because of how your faces are designed, this obviously isn't going to work.

    Flipping the lips and barrels means taking the lip and mounting it where the barrel would go, and vice versa. Since your lips and barrels are welded, this would just entail taking the face, turning it around, and mounting it to the barrel side rather than the lip side. The result is a different offset, and the valve stem on the inside. Often people drill out the former-barrel-now-lip, install the valve stem, and weld the former-lip-now-barrel to solve this problem. Your wheels should be perfectly compatible with this.



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    • Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
      Flipping the lips and barrels means taking the lip and mounting it where the barrel would go, and vice versa. Since your lips and barrels are welded, this would just entail taking the face, turning it around, and mounting it to the barrel side rather than the lip side. The result is a different offset, and the valve stem on the inside. Often people drill out the former-barrel-now-lip, install the valve stem, and weld the former-lip-now-barrel to solve this problem. Your wheels should be perfectly compatible with this.
      This is what I was talking about. For the time being, I actually want to do it to get a much better idea of what size barrel I can actually run and hit 10* and have a "safe zone." Since I don't plan on keeping them this way for ever, I won't weld them shut and move them just keep them inside for the time being.

      With them flipped with the above method I could possible get away without my current spacers, and have a good weekend of messing around


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      • Went out and took some measurements of the trunk, also for the time being I think "if possible" i'd like to run one single tank and then eventually expand when I'm ready.


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        • jeez, this build is getting better as time passes, good job man

          '08 335i

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          • Originally posted by Hellalime View Post
            jeez, this build is getting better as time passes, good job man
            Thank you. I'm on a mission to break the interwebs.


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            • I'm going switchspeed management, Bagriders is highly recommending I go that route, then upgrade to elevel if I don't feel switchspeed suits my needs. I thought about going V2 but it seems lots of people have problems with the manifold, and the system in general.


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              • Switchspeed is a great choice, and the upgradability to e-Level would be a big selling point for me as well, had I not gone e-Level from the get-go.

                Tell me you're going to use that tablet in the dash for pressure display.



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                • Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
                  Switchspeed is a great choice, and the upgradability to e-Level would be a big selling point for me as well, had I not gone e-Level from the get-go.

                  Tell me you're going to use that tablet in the dash for pressure display.
                  I agree.

                  THIS IS THE GREATEST IDEA EVER. Do you have any ideas? I'm curious to know how I could get them in live time to the tablet.


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                  • 4x 5V pressure sensors installed on the pressure ports of the VU4 manifold. Read the voltage on an Arduino or similar, then send via Bluetooth or USB to the tablet. Write Java app for tablet that displays pressure.

                    Easy-peasy.



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                    • Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
                      4x 5V pressure sensors installed on the pressure ports of the VU4 manifold. Read the voltage on an Arduino or similar, then send via Bluetooth or USB to the tablet. Write Java app for tablet that displays pressure.

                      Easy-peasy.
                      Easy-peasy.

                      Problems: I don't know how to program arduinos, and make apps.


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                      • Problem: You don't know how to install air ride either.



                        I taught myself C++ to program the Arduino I use for my keyless entry system. It can be done.

                        Or start making friends with kids in the CS program at your local university.

                        EDIT: I ain't sayin' it's easy, but it is the best solution.

                        EDIT 2: And it's hardly even C++ on the Arduino, it's got the Wiring framework, which practically like speaking English.
                        Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 01-24-2015, 08:36 PM.



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                        • Seems the owner of this build has a ton of problems. I'll start searching around to see what I can find out. I agree it would be awesome to do, and it just puts me even further into the realm of small details


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                          • So if the bank has deposit envelopes when I get off work, I'll be purchasing my dual 444c compressors and the pancake tank today or tomorrow. It'll get me started on the trunk area and then I'll go from there. I'm going to check with Bagriders again and see what they recommend for bags again, just to see if the air house 2 and the aero sports are still the best option.


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                            • Awesome!

                              If you're going to plug all the top ports on the pancake tank and just do everything through the bottom, consider using flush plugs like these: http://almabolt.com/pages/catalog/al...ssureplugs.htm

                              They'll net you another 1/4" of space on the top, and they sure look a hell of a lot nicer than regular NPT plugs.

                              One other thing to think about: the bottom port on that pancake tank is going to be challenging to get to, depending on how you orient your tank. You may want to think about some kind of remote drain, whether that be a fancy electric one or just mounting a standard drain on a hose that runs out underneath the car or something.



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                              • Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
                                Awesome!

                                If you're going to plug all the top ports on the pancake tank and just do everything through the bottom, consider using flush plugs like these: http://almabolt.com/pages/catalog/al...ssureplugs.htm

                                They'll net you another 1/4" of space on the top, and they sure look a hell of a lot nicer than regular NPT plugs.

                                One other thing to think about: the bottom port on that pancake tank is going to be challenging to get to, depending on how you orient your tank. You may want to think about some kind of remote drain, whether that be a fancy electric one or just mounting a standard drain on a hose that runs out underneath the car or something.
                                Those plugs look really nice, and might make the tank pop a little more. I'm feeling the bottom mount of the tank but unsure of how to make it happen really. And will air flow be a problem?


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