2008 Slammed Jeep Patriot

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Is there any liftover on the rear sill, or is the floor flush to the sill? The reason I ask is that you could always raise the false floor if you need to.

If you run the pancake tank, you can run SMC swivel elbows for additional vertical clearance, or better yet, cap the top ports with a flush plug, and do everything through a manifold connected to the single port on the bottom.

EDIT: WTF is up with my editing today?

[Creation]

Is there any liftover on the rear sill, or is the floor flush to the sill? The reason I ask is that you could always raise the false floor if you need to.

If you run the pancake tank, you can run SMC swivel elbows for additional vertical clearance, or better yet, cap the top ports with a flush plug, and do everything through a manifold connected to the single port on the bottom.

EDIT: WTF is up with my editing today?

It's flush with the false floor, and the hinge itself is apart of the sill.

The manifold idea is a pretty good one, the pancake tank is sort of ugly and people would see it and be like... it's not even hooked up.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

The manifold idea is a pretty good one, the pancake tank is sort of ugly and people would see it and be like... it's not even hooked up.

And then you yell "SURPRISE MOTHERFUCKER" and blow their minds.

You can always have the tank powdercoated or painted too. You're right, those flat black tanks look pretty haggard out of the box.

Not to throw yet another piece of software at you, but I found Sketchup indispensable on my build. My air ride and audio install is all very compact, and a 3D model really helped me figure out where I could cram components.

[Creation]

And then you yell "SURPRISE MOTHERFUCKER" and blow their minds.

You can always have the tank powdercoated or painted too. You're right, those flat black tanks look pretty haggard out of the box.

Not to throw yet another piece of software at you, but I found Sketchup indispensable on my build. My air ride and audio install is all very compact, and a 3D model really helped me figure out where I could cram components.

I think looks alone are preventing me from going with the tank, and it's not future proof. If I decide to go "showy" it'll require a full rework of the tank setup.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

It is an ugly bastard, I will grant you that. I'm not sure how much I'd worry about future-proofing, at least given how fast my ideas seem to change about where I'm going, but hey.

Can you get dimensions on the spare tire well, framerail to framerail, front to back, and how much vertical space you've got at the very edges? I'm wondering whether some AVS Slims might fit in there, since they're only 4" tall.

EDIT: To be fair to the pancake tank, I think it's got some awesome potential for an absolutely batshit crazy hardline setup were someone to want to go that way.

[Creation]

It is an ugly bastard, I will grant you that. I'm not sure how much I'd worry about future-proofing, at least given how fast my ideas seem to change about where I'm going, but hey.

Can you get dimensions on the spare tire well, framerail to framerail, front to back, and how much vertical space you've got at the very edges? I'm wondering whether some AVS Slims might fit in there, since they're only 4" tall.

EDIT: To be fair to the pancake tank, I think it's got some awesome potential for an absolutely batshit crazy hardline setup were someone to want to go that way.

Of course, I'll take measurements when I get some time and a tape measure nearby. I think I may have a diagram I roughly did a year or two ago when the idea first arrose. I'll dig around.

[mikey G]

Since space/ show is something you want to keep incorporated into your jeep. (Seeing as its a daily/ show car). There are limitless options for mounting to keep your trunk space maximized while still showing [I]some[I] bling. A countersunk tank into a false floor, this would alleviate any problems with a large(r) tank fitting in the confined space of your wheel well. You can also do a Vertically mounted tank(s) on either or both corners of the trunk. There are also plenty of options for "shelf mounting" your tank, to the back of your seat, to the bottom or top of your cargo cover (im just assuming you have a cargo cover). Again these are just brainstorming ideas but don't get caught up in trying to figure out if you want a hidden setup or not. I would be thinking "How can I make this as efficient as possible while still having the convenience of a trunk." Just some thoughts man...

[Creation]

Since space/ show is something you want to keep incorporated into your jeep. (Seeing as its a daily/ show car). There are limitless options for mounting to keep your trunk space maximized while still showing [I]some[I] bling. A countersunk tank into a false floor, this would alleviate any problems with a large(r) tank fitting in the confined space of your wheel well. You can also do a Vertically mounted tank(s) on either or both corners of the trunk. There are also plenty of options for "shelf mounting" your tank, to the back of your seat, to the bottom or top of your cargo cover (im just assuming you have a cargo cover). Again these are just brainstorming ideas but don't get caught up in trying to figure out if you want a hidden setup or not. I would be thinking "How can I make this as efficient as possible while still having the convenience of a trunk." Just some thoughts man...

I still feel the best option is going to be under the false floor. The rear end of the Jeep gets used quite frequently, and it's the only vehicle in our local show group that has space to take the pop-up tent, coolers, and chairs (packmule!). I've looked at the counter sunk option and just don't want to tear up the tank nor any of the accessories while storing items.

When the show comes and all of the previously list items are removed and setup, I can just 1) pull the false floor out and leave it at our tent or 2) Just lift it up and find a way to prop it up much like a hood prop.

I'm in the process of moving right now so the rear end is full, once that get's cleared out i'll take those measurements.

[mikey G]

How about you slap a hidden hitch on the jeep and tow a trailer out to the shows with all your gear like a true enthusiast Just giving you a hard time man. Whatever you do it'll look great. I just come to this thread to get my creative juices flowing

[Creation]

How about you slap a hidden hitch on the jeep and tow a trailer out to the shows with all your gear like a true enthusiast Just giving you a hard time man. Whatever you do it'll look great. I just come to this thread to get my creative juices flowing

Haha, I understand. This build brings out the best and worst ideas, sometimes I even go with the worst ones..

[mikey G]

Hahaha that's whats it all about. Trial and error. Experimentation and a willingness to learn.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Hahaha that's whats it all about. Trial and error. Experimentation and a willingness to learn.

This.

Design is an iterative process. There is no shame in testing out ideas and throwing away lots of designs.

[Creation]

Well, my custom camber arms are here! Still awaiting my custom toe links from the same company, they are about a week behind due to a late build start on these compared to the camber arms. I should be able to hit -10* or more in the rear but in order to do that I need to rebuild my wheels, or reverse mount?

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Your SSRs cannot be reverse mounted. Your SSRs are also probably welded barrel-to-lip, so take that into consideration.

[Creation]

Your SSRs cannot be reverse mounted. Your SSRs are also probably welded barrel-to-lip, so take that into consideration.

I just read up a little more on the reverse mount process, which I now see why I couldn't just flip them and rebolt the faces. I know they are welded, part of the reason I haven't rebuilt yet. I find it a little hard to swallow $400 fees to cut the lip and barrel apart to rebuild. That's 2 new lips on another set of wheels.