2008 Slammed Jeep Patriot

[Creation]

How would I wire the switch to only have power when the car is off? I know the power line would need to be directly wired to the battery for a constant pull, but how could I prevent the switch from working? The only way making sense in my brain is to have a second switch much like a safety. When the first switch is toggled, it allows power to move freely, when the switch is off, the drain switch is dead.

^ That's the idea!

Wire that switch so that it only has power when the vehicle is turned off. The VU4 manifold requires air pressure to keep its valves closed, so if someone were to press that button while driving and dump your tank's air pressure, your car will air out. Not super cool.

This can also be solved by putting a check valve inline on the inlet to the VU4, but since there's never any reason to dump the tank when the car is running, wiring the switch correctly is an easier, cheaper solution.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

^ That's the idea!

Wire that switch so that it only has power when the vehicle is turned off. The VU4 manifold requires air pressure to keep its valves closed, so if someone were to press that button while driving and dump your tank's air pressure, your car will air out. Not super cool.

This can also be solved by putting a check valve inline on the inlet to the VU4, but since there's never any reason to dump the tank when the car is running, wiring the switch correctly is an easier, cheaper solution.

[Creation]

Quote isn't working today for some reason, but I appreciate the help as always Sam. For the drain valve, if I go electronic I can wire up another custom switch and wire it to the same board of switches I have for fog lights, and halos. I have a "passenger eject" button SPDT that's begging to be hooked up for it That I could just flip and when it's done draining just flip it back up.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Oh, also, I've been reconsidering that tank drain idea from the diagram. I think I'd rather you use a ball valve or electric valve inline on the drain line inside the spare tire well, rather than a screw valve outside the car as I have shown in the diagram. That screw valve is just begging for something to hit it or for it to corrode or something.

Were it me, I'd buy this and two of these, and then hide a switch (probably a momentary) somewhere in the spare tire well to open the valve and drain the tank.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Compressors: Dual 444c compressors, with 2x 40 Amp Relays, 2x ¼ check valves and 2x power kits.

Leader Lines: http://bagriders.com/modlab/products...ADER-LINE.html

Viair compressors come with leader lines and check valves included, so you do not need to buy them separate if you don't want to. The SMC valve is an upgrade from the Viair one, at which point you can make your own leader lines out of DOT tubing, run that Air Lift one, or just disassemble the Viair one and use only the hose section. At this stage, I'd probably just use the Viair lines, and plan on upgrading to SMC valves if the Viair stuff fails.

Water Traps: Bag riders offers only two water traps, but these don’t show a size but they look much cleaner, is this a good choice?
http://bagriders.com/modlab/products...ATER-TRAP.html

AVS or SMC are both fine. If I were doing my setup again, I would run the 3/8" SMC trap, since it has a twist valve at the bottom rather than a Schrader valve and has a larger capacity. My water trap is not visible, however.

Air Line: 3/8 due to the dump speed, I’m concerned if I go 1/4th I may come down to quickly and damage the rim of the wheel once fitment is dialed in.

3/8 > 1/4.

I would not try to control your dump rate via line sizing. Run 3/8" just because that's what the VU4 wants, and it'll save you some adapting, and then put a flow control valve inline on the exhaust out of the VU4.

I assume somewhere in there is a 200 psi safety valve and a tank drain.

[Creation]

Haha, trying to keep it going. I'm price checking bag riders right now and i've found almost everything cheaper elsewhere. There going to get like 45 links from me..

[P78]

Bank card was just frauded. Just can't win. First round of parts will be bought whenever this clears up.

your jeep is winning tho

[Creation]

Management: Accuair Switchspeed with VU4.

Compressors: Dual 444c compressors, with 2x 40 Amp Relays, 2x ¼ check valves and 2x power kits.

Tank: AirLift 4 Gallon Pancake (under false floor) or other 200psi longer tank, mounted on top of false floor.

http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/AIR-LIFT-STEEL-4-GALLON-PANCAKE-TANK.html

Gauges: Triple Gauge Kit, until I can figure out the tablet gauges or pick up the digi-gauge LED.

http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/TRIPLE-GAUGE-COMBO-KIT.html

Switchbox/Controller: Accuair Switchspeed.

Water Traps: Bag riders offers only two water traps, but these don’t show a size but they look much cleaner, is this a good choice?

http://bagriders.com/modlab/products/AVS-WATER-TRAP.html

Leader Lines: http://bagriders.com/modlab/products...ADER-LINE.html

Air Line: 3/8 due to the dump speed, I’m concerned if I go 1/4th I may come down to quickly and damage the rim of the wheel once fitment is dialed in.

Bags:
Front: (2) Aero Sport Bags (no brackets)
Rear: (2) Air House 2 Aero Sport Bags
Brackets: (2) Aero Sport Threaded Coilover Brackets (BC BR Caliber SRT4)



If you see anything that just don't seem right please let me know. My bank issues should be straightened out tomorrow to make the first round of purchases.

I'm still working on getting all the price matching links for BR before I pull the trigger.

[Creation]

Bank card was just frauded. Just can't win. First round of parts will be bought whenever this clears up.

[mikey G]

Nice. I like it man. Nice schematic sam.

[Creation]

Yep. I'll shave down the bar and place the tank center.

[mikey G]

Im assuming I just missed this, but you are shaving the threaded bar to attach the spare down right? Centering the pancake tank with the 2 compressors on either side. Your gunna be fine man. Can't wait to see the end product.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

I'm thinking of starting that thread. "Air Ride 101: Philosophy, Theory, and Applied Physics." We'll see if I can get un-lazy and actually type it up.

Anyway. I hope this answers what you're getting at, but don't confuse the NPT and PTC fitting sizes - you can well have a fitting that adapts from 1/4" NPT to 3/8" PTC, which is what I have spec'd above. 3/8" line will want 3/8" PTC or 3/8" compression fittings, but will not give a damn about what size NPT threads are attached to the other end.

[Creation]

How to bag a car 101, Sam will be your instructor today.

Thank you Sam. That makes much more sense. So in reality when I buy fittings I just need to pick up 3 nipple for every pair of fittings.

I read on one of the fittings sites that the 1/4 doesn't mean it's for 1/4 line. Since I'm running 3/8, do I pick up 3/8 fittings or 1/4?

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

This is probably how I would go about it:



I think if you click on the image, it'll open up in a new window, full-sized.

Obviously I didn't label all the pieces, but the things that look like hex nipples are hex nipples, all the things that look like tees are tees, and so forth.

I would mount the manifold on the back wall of the spare tire well, and cover it with something that you can remove easily enough to get to the water traps. Then mount the drain somewhere accessible, taking care to run the air line so that it never goes any higher than the lowest point of the tank.

EDIT: One more thing. I'd get at Bag Riders or Air Lift and see what the pressure rating is on that tank. All of the sudden I can't find it anywhere. You'll need to spec your safety valve based on the tank's maximum rated pressure.

EDIT 2: And now I see you already mentioned the max pressure issue earlier in the thread. Reading comprehension ownz me.