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Great work Seb, keep it up, really enjoying watching you work on this. Personally I'd go for a MIG for the type of work you want to do, and as an added bonus they're easy to learn for noobs like us. I haven't really seen anyone do body work with a TIG, and for the pans and other stuff like that a MIG will be much easier and do the same job.
I've seen some crazy, concours level restorations that have had TIG'd bodywork. But that's a whole 'nother deal
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Great work Seb, keep it up, really enjoying watching you work on this. Personally I'd go for a MIG for the type of work you want to do, and as an added bonus they're easy to learn for noobs like us. I haven't really seen anyone do body work with a TIG, and for the pans and other stuff like that a MIG will be much easier and do the same job.
I haven't given anything away yet as to what my wheel setup was going to be, but I will most likely be running a set of RS'. Well, two sets, one for dailying and one for shows.
I may have organised a half cut today, but need to save some more cash before I can even consider it. Hopefully I can find something that will be perfect for what I need and then I can continue along with the build. The pan halves should arrive some time next week.
Great progress so far man. One quick thing, most pans already have provisions for the rear crossmember so you can section the old one off of the chassis. This goes for the front as well. There are a few spot welds and then a seam on the pan holding them on.
Stick with MIG for the pan halves, all thats needed are plug welds every 2 inches.
Thanks for that man! I was aware, but didn't want to cut anymore until the pan halves had arrived. Hopefully they arrive later this week.
I'll be purchasing a MIG as soon as I can sell the TIG and will just be using that. I know how to MIG so should be simple enough.
Great progress so far man. One quick thing, most pans already have provisions for the rear crossmember so you can section the old one off of the chassis. This goes for the front as well. There are a few spot welds and then a seam on the pan holding them on.
Stick with MIG for the pan halves, all thats needed are plug welds every 2 inches.
Sold off the engine today, thankfully. So more money in my pocket to save for the correct engine setup.
Need to find a GC8 WRX half cut that I can take everything out of that is necessary for the build.
It's funny what some people think about project cars. Get a project car, but not allowed to work on it as much you want. I don't understand some people one bit.
So, today it is Australia Day. It's the day where a lot of dickheads think Australia is the best country and rave on about it.
I decided to spend my time differently. Out in the garage working with some German metal. So now, both pan halves have been split and I started cleaning up the tunnel area once again ready for the new pan halves to arrive.
Got the brake master all out and the brake lines removed along the pan. Need to figure out how I'm going to mount up the new pedal assembly once I have made the decision on what assembly I'm going with.
Tomorrow I'll finally whip out the TIG welder and run some practice welds in anticipation of the replacement pan halves. If I fail hard, I might just go and buy a MIG and use that.
My replacement C pillar bits also came, so that is exciting to say the least. Now to get learning how to TIG I guess. Might spend some time tomorrow working it all out. Or, just go and buy a MIG like I should have in the beginning.
I also realised that the engine is going to be a massive task to get it running as a twin turbo as it should. So going to strip it all down and sell it as parts so I can fund the purchase of a WRX half cut or something.
Grabbed some engine parts while in Melbourne on the weekend.
Trying to figure out which route to go with the engine. Either get it working with the twin turbo setup or convert to single. Converting to single seems like the right thing to do though.
I require a standalone ECU and wiring harness as well. That's another thing to add to the money spent.
Need to order pan halves on the ASAP. Spent some time tonight cleaning up the leftover metal on the tunnel where the pan half was originally spot welded too.
So off came a whole pan half. I cut about 1/4" away from the lip where the original one is spot welded on, and around the base at the rear. Mainly so I can go around with a flat head and pry the spot welded sheet metal off the lip.
Those with a keen eye will see what I'm talking about in the photo above. At the rear I didn't cut up the groove but kept low to the bottom so as to make it easier to cut the rest out when the new halves come. Have to battle with the spot welds next.
Everyone loves some suspension pictures. The front suspension setup is pretty simple. A macpherson strut front end makes life a lot easier to accomplish a custom setup.
And as for the rear, it is an interesting setup indeed. Still utilising torsion bars, the rear suspension height is set by splines. This will be removed, narrowed and a Mendeola true track rear setup will be installed.
Made a little more progress this weekend. Minute, but still, something is better than nothing.
Mate came around yesterday and had a go at TIG welding. Didn't end very well, so looking at doing some night courses in it so that when I get to the welding stage, I know what I'm doing properly.
Tonight, with the help of the girlfriend, we cleaned up the pan halves a bit more. I took a wire wheel to the factory sound deadening around the tunnel and flung goo everywhere. Not even mad.
Just waiting for pay day so I can organise some new pan halves. Have to drive to Melbourne this coming Friday night so I can pick up the rest of the engine bits necessary to get the engine all nice and refreshed. Thinking I might take the heads off and replace both covers.
No pictures again, but will get some tomorrow night once I have completely cleaned up the tunnel on the pan. Then comes cutting out the pan halves and sussing out what I'm going to do with the front suspension setup.
Narrowing the front suspension is going to be interesting and getting the amount of front camber I want will also be interesting. I'm going to need to get new LCA's, shorten the sway bar and modify the strut mounting position so that it doesn't hit the LCA's when cambered.
Narrowing the rear suspension is also going to be interesting, but will do that once I have the gearbox and engine mounted up so that I know how much I can narrow the rear.
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