Wait. How did I miss you already got a feature... only to turn around and do this?????
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Never ending quest of badassery
Collapse
X
-
Wow. That engine bay will look stunning when finished!
If you don't mind me asking...
What's gold plating worth in comparison to other options? eg. anodizing, powder coating etc etc.
Or did you pick a gold anodize [Doesn't look like it though]?
What do you use to protect the surface coating from tools? Velvet lined spanners haha
Comment
-
Originally posted by jazig.k View PostWow. That engine bay will look stunning when finished!
If you don't mind me asking...
What's gold plating worth in comparison to other options? eg. anodizing, powder coating etc etc.
Or did you pick a gold anodize [Doesn't look like it though]?
What do you use to protect the surface coating from tools? Velvet lined spanners haha
It's real 24K plating, done a couple different ways. All of the ARP hardware (which is stainless steel) has a reallllllly thin layer of nickel under the even thinner layer of gold. It's really damn resilient too. Almost impossible to scratch, doesn't react to heat that I've been able to tell too. I've torched one bolt and nothing happened.. I've even had to use an impact on one that seized in the trans (I used the wrong bolt, wasn't due to the plating) and it barey made a mark. Only problems I've encountered have been the ARP threads are a lot sharper (more accurate?) than the OEM VW stuff, so I've had to chase every thread of the OEM cast stuff before installing the hardware. Along with the stainless, most of the aluminum stuff is plated the same way and I have yet to run into issues with that stuff too. Greg (Swoops) said that he didn't have any issues with the plated -AN firtings going together and sealing aswell.
I was worried about the V-bands having issues due to the bending of them and whatnot when installing them, but I've had them on and off the car probably 10-15 times now and haven't had an issue, so that's nice.
However, there are some items (mostly the mild steel) that have been nickel, copper, chrome and then gold plated and those items are VERY sensitive to tools. Almost impossible to get a tool on one without the plating wanting to chip. I'm glad I only went that route with just a few items.
The tools I've been using for everything have been brand new Snap on 12pt sockets that are only used for the gold plated stuff. if I'm worried about messing something up I just use cling wrap to protect the heads. To answer your question about the plating, I have about 6K in plating alone. Wasn't planning on getting that out of control with it all, though. Hahaha.IG: @dubsesed
"All is fair in love and low"
Lowered Values
PVW 5/15
Comment
-
Originally posted by mrkrinkle View PostHonestly surprised more people haven't asked that..
It's real 24K plating, done a couple different ways. All of the ARP hardware (which is stainless steel) has a reallllllly thin layer of nickel under the even thinner layer of gold. It's really damn resilient too. Almost impossible to scratch, doesn't react to heat that I've been able to tell too. I've torched one bolt and nothing happened.. I've even had to use an impact on one that seized in the trans (I used the wrong bolt, wasn't due to the plating) and it barey made a mark. Only problems I've encountered have been the ARP threads are a lot sharper (more accurate?) than the OEM VW stuff, so I've had to chase every thread of the OEM cast stuff before installing the hardware. Along with the stainless, most of the aluminum stuff is plated the same way and I have yet to run into issues with that stuff too. Greg (Swoops) said that he didn't have any issues with the plated -AN firtings going together and sealing aswell.
I was worried about the V-bands having issues due to the bending of them and whatnot when installing them, but I've had them on and off the car probably 10-15 times now and haven't had an issue, so that's nice.
However, there are some items (mostly the mild steel) that have been nickel, copper, chrome and then gold plated and those items are VERY sensitive to tools. Almost impossible to get a tool on one without the plating wanting to chip. I'm glad I only went that route with just a few items.
The tools I've been using for everything have been brand new Snap on 12pt sockets that are only used for the gold plated stuff. if I'm worried about messing something up I just use cling wrap to protect the heads. To answer your question about the plating, I have about 6K in plating alone. Wasn't planning on getting that out of control with it all, though. Hahaha.
Interesting to hear about its durability [on some metals].
Clean, new sockets makes a lot of sense!
And thanks for the insight into cost! Holy fuck that's not spare change at all! Worth it for the look, anodized gold usually just looks like the tackier shade of yellow ano'.
Comment
-
Not really my style but I definately respect your build! Extremely clean, the work with the hard lines on the compressor tank are great.. and when I read that that was real 24k plating i had to double take.haha Nice car
______________
Comment
-
Holy crap what a long weekend..
I got all the wiring done on Friday and Saturday, then spent Sunday buttoning everything up to get ready to fire it up! Had to finish routing and hooking up all the vacuum lines and then hook all coolant hoses up. I got a Mishimoto radiator for the car and from doing a bit of reading I knew that they leak at the quick connect hose ends VW has. A little ingenuity and help from a buddy solved that issue. All I did was put additional o-rings on the barbs. I had top re seal the temp sender at the radiator as well since it was leaking slightly once the system was pressurized with an Airlift tool. That thing is fucking awesome. Pulls a vacuum on the system so you can find leaks before filling with coolant.
After that I hooked up the intercooler and piping, did a final check on the important stuff, unhooked the injectors and cranked for a good minute to build oil pressure. Hooked everything up and she fired right up. Noticed a SMALL fuel leak at the return hardline I made, so I need to get some special 37* washer made specifically for -AN fittings. Imagine a crush washer coated in a special locktite. They're like $30 a piece too. Fuck. Anyways, should have a few of those in my possession by the end of the day. Hopefully I can heat cycle the damn thing after work today! I'm shooting to drive it to an annual local swap meet on Sunday! Hooray!IG: @dubsesed
"All is fair in love and low"
Lowered Values
PVW 5/15
Comment
-
Had to pull the motor. Trans was fucked. Picking trans up tonight. Motor is going back in car tonight. Hooray.
This really, really, really sucked, but was the best option considering everything. Originally was just going to drop the trans out the bottom while hoisting the motor up, but all things considered it was much safer to just yank the entire motor.
While I was waiting for the trans I did this. Never. Again. I'll have black boogers for the remainder of the month..
IG: @dubsesed
"All is fair in love and low"
Lowered Values
PVW 5/15
Comment
-
Shaved sidewalls?
Comment
-
Originally posted by philohlean View PostUh.... What exactly did you do? Sucks about having to pull the motor out again man, really looking forward to seeing it all buttoned up!IG: @dubsesed
"All is fair in love and low"
Lowered Values
PVW 5/15
Comment
-
White wheels look classy! I suppose you could switch it up with gold plated faces with white bolts haha or gold lips!-Christian.
'91 318iS AW2/blk slow garage queen/build...
'02 ///M3 carbonschwartz 6MT daily beast
'37 Chevy pickup-garagequeen...
Comment
Comment