1967 Pro-Touring 122 Amazon (Project Volvo X)540 Horsepower LS6/Tremec TKO600 5-Speed

[Joxalatorn]

You're doing an amazing work on your car and I think that I will use some of your solutions on my own custom.

You might have seen this already, but if not, here are some more swedish inspiration.
Frank's Stealth Amazon, built from 1995 and forward.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpCwCNvh0fE"]Frank Eriksson Retro Rides Show 2007 - YouTube[/ame]

You have already seen Vöx Amazon, here it races a Ferrari.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7QKxcH4DFw"]Filmed from Volvo, Amazon vs Ferrari 599 GTB - YouTube[/ame]

And the last one was voted as Swedens coolest Volvo 2012, built by Erik Hansson.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dl992GNyD0Q"]Sveriges häftigaste Volvo 2012 - Amazon 121 GTR - YouTube[/ame]

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Here are some more updates of the new headlight progress.. They are basically sorted, and as you can see the hand made amber lenses are going to be a nice finish touch. All that is really left to do, is to make the mould for the new outer lense, and then attach the outer lense to the body, and seal it up.. You can also see that there are plenty of LED lights, which is way different than the cheap looking Ebay specials that are skimpy on the LED placement.. LOL

[BreadBaskett]

Well fuck me sideways and call me Tobi...

[evilstar]

Well fuck me sideways and call me Tobi...

yeah it is pretty amazing isnt it Tobi.

[PastaBatman]

Holy hell! That's even better built than some amazons here in sweden Awesome that people still builds killercars from these old swedish masterpieces My opinion the last nice swedish car :/

[BreadBaskett]

yeah it is pretty amazing isnt it Tobi.

Yes Master.

[alllyellow]

I have been following your threads and am amazed at what you are doing. Really great work. I have a 68 wagon that will receive some serious treatment and hopefully some of your products. First question is that I love the dash that you have for this car. Is that 6 gauge bezel surround a custom piece for you? Is it available for sale through you or would you be willing to provide the source. I would like to potentially move in that direction with my dash. Watching very closely the progress with everything as I easily see myself being a huge customer. Thanks in advance for your response.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I am more than happy to share information, and that is what this thread is about.. I will PM you the information about the bezel and guages.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Well here is todays body work up date, and it seems to be flying along.. I sure wish my guy wasnt making an occupation change, because it is hard to find dedicated and quality body men willing to take on the classics in a timely manner..


I thinking the work on the gapping is really starting to show now, and the flares are really starting to blend nicely.. I know you cant see it in the pics, but there has been alot of hammering and dolleying done here, and most all the little dings have been hammered out enough that they can be block sanded out in the primer stages, rather than just filling and working them with glaze... The whole center of the drivers door had to have a bondo patch removed, and all the metal shrank to give the sheet metal its strength back, because it just kept flopping in and out from being stretch by the hidden damage.. There is alot of work that can be saved with just a bit of hammering/shrinking, instead of glopping layers bondo on, and then trying sand until it looks right.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

With these Classic Volvo builds I have found area's in the car that have no drainage at all, and that normally causes major rust or leakage issues with the trunk area for the P1800, along with several other areas in both the P1800/Amazon.. The P1800 Volvo has a top only trunk lid, where the trunk jamd doesnt progress to the back panel for natural drainage, so the trunk weatherstrip jamb acts as a trouph.

From my experience with weatherstripping, and from what I have noticed through the years of restoring various models of car, it is the trapped water in the channel that allows the dirt and residue to stick for deteroiration to continue. And another thing that people dont really consider is, most of your typical trunck/door/hatch weatherstrip is actually a sponge, and the pores will hold moister for quite some time.. The more surface area that has water contact, along with amount of time with weatherstrip/water contact is allowed, the more moister the weatherstrip will store. That ratio only amplifies when you take into account the harm from the addition of layers of sediment and residue from the previous trapped water. If you can keep the water level low, and cut away from the time to obsorb, the more it will keep the rusting affect at bay.

I have two sizes that are being made for me.. The pictured is a 1/2" head, and takes a 3/8" hole, with a 7/32" drain hole. I have another that is a 5/8" Head, and takes a 7/16" hole, with a 5/16" drain hole.. I had these made for strategic areas of the Volvo body, and the drain holes are larger than what most Oem featured body drains are. The flat spot on the head, makes it possible to get the drain hole as far inboard as possible, so it leaves virtually no water puddle.

In the pictures below, the black bracket only represents the trunk jamb, and is not part of the kit at all...

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Well I received the custom headlights I have been working on today, and they are not what they are suppose to be, so I am a bit surprised.. I objected to the "SICK" logo in the last batch of updates, because they were to in your face, and not the best word to be the focal point at the front of the fenders.. The previously purchased and showcased lights did not have the etched logo, and these lights were being made to my design and specifications, so I dont understand the bold in your face logo. This light version was suppost to be the same basic setup as the previous pictured lights in this build thread, with the exception of a new seperate Turn/Park lamp at the bottom of it, and they were suppose to be the same clear outer lense.

With what I recieve, he apparently put a fluted outer lense on it, to hide the SICK logo, but that wasnt suppose to be the case at all. To make matters worse, the fluting actually conflicts with the position of the Projector Lense, so it all just seems out of sorts. I was told that this was his only solution to the matter, because to remove the logo involved destroying the whole light assembly, and there isnt any returns.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Here are some more body work updates, and I tried to highlight a bit of the gapping work that has been done so far. These are still bare metal gappings, so you can see it isnt just a build up of bondo or some other material.. You should also be able to see that the raw metal on each panel is level with the corresponding panel, and that is without bondo or glazes also. There still a bit more to be done, but they are really starting to shape up..

I have also tried to take some pictures that would show how the flares look proportionally to the body, but that is hard to do.. Even with the rear flares , the front end body work is still wider than the rear of the car.

[alllyellow]

Drains are a great idea. Like your idea and being able to position it as you have i think will really make a difference. I happen to have my front drivers side interior door panel off on my amazon wagon and with it raining today I was curious to see how much water was pooling inside the door. I was thinking that there would be a pond. Not that bad, but I had been thinking for some time now that if I'm really going to drive my car on a regular basis "not just on sunny days" I may need to address the drain issue on my car. None of the doors have drain holes on the bottom.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Drains are a great idea. Like your idea and being able to position it as you have i think will really make a difference. I happen to have my front drivers side interior door panel off on my amazon wagon and with it raining today I was curious to see how much water was pooling inside the door. I was thinking that there would be a pond. Not that bad, but I had been thinking for some time now that if I'm really going to drive my car on a regular basis "not just on sunny days" I may need to address the drain issue on my car. None of the doors have drain holes on the bottom.

Adding a couple of simple drain holes is always a good idea with these cars, so I would definilty do that.. The drain kit in question, is really for strategic areas in these bodies, that hold and gather water. Mostly the trunk area's, especially the P1800, and other areas like the Windshield/Back Glass openings that are notorious for rust.. Alot of the early General Motors Cars with gasketed windshields and back glasses, actually had rubber drain fittings in the corners of the front and rear window channels. They would actually go bad in time, and still cause issue, but these Volvo's have nothting, so they are notorious for rust and leaking..

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Here is another body shop update, and it seems to be coming along.. My guy normally does things in sections, so he can be dedicated to particular panels, so things dont get missed in what could be an overwhelming job.