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I just need the m20 flywheel shim/washer and I have everything to mate the engine to the trans.
I also picked up a 2.93 medium case lsd for cheap. I am going to see how it cleans up and decide what I want to do with it from there. It is CRUSTY haha
Not trying to sound like a smartass but aluminum and stainless is a bad combination. Use some silicone grease on the threads, otherwise it's gonna be a pain in the as* to remove later
Replaced the detent springs yesterday evening. I freshened up the holding plate and installed new bolts too (yes they're stainless=P)
What I started with
The springs looked a hair compressed more than the new springs. By hand the rates didn't feel much different. There really was nothing to take a picture of for the new springs, so here it is all done=)
Now onto find what to refresh next=) I have an e34 steering coupler on the way and more parts from Germany=P
I had to grind down a socket to fit but got the nut off with an impact fairly easy after that. The flange pulled right off without needing a puller.
I then used a slide hammer with a hook attachment at the end to pull the seal out.
I then lubricated the new seal and started it in the bore with my hands. I used a brass drift and drove it in about 3mm from flush (the thickness of two pennies)
At this point I put the flange back onto the output shaft and tightened the nut, seating the seal the rest of the way. The next step is to torque the output flange nut in two stages. First torque it to 140ft/lbs, then remove the nut, add loctite (Bentley specifies 242 but I will be using 271), and torque the nut to 89 ft/lbs. I could not find any way to hold the flange to 140ft/lbs at home. I grenaded a screwdriver in a failed attempt. I brought the trans into work today so that I can take a piece of angle iron and bolt it to the flange. This way I can clamp that in a vice and it should be easier. The only thing I am afraid of now is the ground down socket breaking. Hopefully it holds up.
Have you tried aluminum jelly for getting the corrosion out of the bell housing?
I think it's usually used for screen doors. Loctite sell it but there's also a Duro version in Ace hardware for about $4.
I was able to pop a hole in it with a pick, thread a wood screw into it, and use a slide hammer to pull it right out.
I wrapped the splines of the input shaft in electrical tape to prevent damaging the seal when I reinstalled it. I tapped it in with a long brass drift and it seated nice and straight
I also installed the pivot pin as you can see. I cleaned up and reinstalled the throwout bearing guide tube after the new seal was in.
I really wish I could get it cleaner in the bellhousing but I would be basically sanding off all of the corrosion haha
After that I removed the selector shaft seal
That little guy is tricky. Mine happened to be pressed in farther than they should be. You have to be really careful not to scratch the shaft or outer bore in the case. I was able to get a pick in between the shaft and seal and then lever it out slowly.
After that I installed my selector rod joint
I was able to sand it to fit in my DSSR nice and tight as well. The spot you see at the end of the groove is on both sides. Must be something during the plating process since these have a very light bronzish colored plating.
That is currently where I am at. The last things to do are the output shaft seal and the detent springs. My detent springs are in the mail and I need to source the proper 30mm socket to remove the output shaft flange. It needs to be deep but have a thin wall. I have heard you just need to grind down a normal 30mm socket. The seal should be simple if I remove it just like the input shaft seal.
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