This thing is sick man. I really love what you're doing with it.
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Kevin's 93' Ls400 AYEEEE
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I was originally going to go with megans since a lot of lexus guys seem to run them and have good results, but then I decided to go with BCs. They're awesome if you ask me, rebuildable for cheap, you can get custom low kits and spring rates as well. I got mine for 999$ shipped with the rear top hat extenders. The car will ride like sht unless you cut out some of the strut tower to allow the UCA to travelOriginally posted by coronawags View PostHey man Love the ls, I was wondering how you find the bc's? im looking at lows for my daily ls400 and im comparing coilovers atm, have you had any problems? how do they handle being lowered that much?
Such a sweet ride man. Props
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I need to redo them because the lower you go the higher the UCA compresses, so my original holes aren't giving me maximum clearance anymore. Originally I cut 3 inch holes and welded in rings, but now I'm going to go with 4 inch holes and rings for more clearance because the arm itself might be hitting now instead of just the balljoint area. I'll snap some pics later todayOriginally posted by coronawags View PostHey man cheers for the reply, how much is needed to be cut out of the strut tower for the uca, Do you have any pics?
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Attempted to fix my instrument cluster yesterday, common problem with this generation ls400. The lights eventually go out, sticky or non-moving needles, inaccurate gas gauge. Basically had to solder 3 new capacitors to the circuit boards.
Tron world

IMG_4514 by KEV.E, on Flickr
I need to go find a 25v tantulum 4.7 capacitor, instead of the 35v electrolytic one I have

IMG_4520 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Super small

IMG_4524 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Peeled off the copper receptor on accident and had to scratch a contact spot and solder straight to the board, here's the capacitor that I need to replace again.

IMG_4525 by KEV.E, on Flickr

IMG_4528 by KEV.E, on Flickr
found some rust behind the cluster

IMG_4518 by KEV.E, on Flickr
took the rest of the cluster apart to try and clean the backs of the needles, which ended up not needing cleaning

IMG_4530 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Boards removed

IMG_4531 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Here's the back of the needles

IMG_4532 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Ended up getting my lights to work but the needles still don't move. I've been driving the car for 3 years without knowing how fast I've been going haha. I'll have to give another run at it soon and fix it entirely.
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You are a bolder man than I, sir. I've tried this with a friend's SC300 a few years back and we were never able to bring it back. I did at least get all the LEDs inside the needles to light up though. I think every Lexus has this happen at some point in its' life.- Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -
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Found a set of 245/40s at a different Mexican joint, they're pretty low on tread but they are good enough to get my car back on the road. Got them for a steal too, 70 bucks for both mounted and everything haha. The only thing that sucked is that one of my rear wheels isn't holding a seal properly so the air is leaking from the hardware.
Not much stretch but I'm going for beef anyways

IMG_4537 by KEV.E, on Flickr

IMG_4544 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Since I have 1 wheel to work with I can finally start cutting up the rear panels. Here's a sketchy mock-up

IMG_4546 by KEV.E, on Flickr
cut through the outer layer and peeled it back to expose the inner section

IMG_4550 by KEV.E, on Flickr

IMG_4554 by KEV.E, on Flickr
trimmed it down some, thankfully the Honda stocks are so sunk I could work on the car without jacking it up and taking the wheel off.

IMG_4555 by KEV.E, on Flickr
Had this idea to get the inner section pulled out and upwards to meet the outer edge, made relief cuts and threw a notebook in there and lowered the jack

IMG_4562 by KEV.E, on Flickr
came out like this, good enough to give me a rough idea of how much clearance I had. I still need to trim at least another cm.

IMG_4567 by KEV.E, on Flickr

IMG_4566 by KEV.E, on Flickr

IMG_4565 by KEV.E, on Flickr
after both sides are all cut up I can tack-weld the panels back together and bolt the flares on to clean up the fitment.
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Originally posted by aLaFleur View PostThis is turning into one of my favorite builds on S|W. Keep it up man, you have something good going on here.thanks guys, building this car in my own way has been my motive since day 1, just because its a Japanese luxury sedan doesn't mean that it has to be strictly "VIP". I planned on immediately molding the flares to the body and hiding all seams, but the raw look of the flares with the hardware looks pretty gnar to me so I've decided to leave them like this for awhile. Later when I paint and do body work I will probably mold them.Originally posted by 244Brick View PostDO LIKE DO LIKE!! this is def. different with the flares. are you plan on molding them?
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