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raw/dry/durty denim

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  • #31
    Ok so I went on wikipedia to get info on what you were talking about, here's what I found out, if it's incorrect feel free to correct me:

    Selvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the out-seam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn.

    The word "selvage" comes from the phrase "self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric. As applied to denim, it means that which is made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched.

    Shuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually stitched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow, and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics.

    Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo dye is available in some denim labels. Though they are supposed to have the same chemical makeup, there are more impurities in the natural indigo dye. Loop dying machines feed a rope of cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.

    In response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950s, American denim manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60-inches or wider). Synthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dye treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.


    There are quite few companies that make this style jeans, I have a pair of FiveFour's that are this style. Kinda remind me of Levi's 501's that Greasers/cholos used to wear in high school but based on the brands you're talking about I'm guessing they're high end.

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    • #32
      True Religions are like $300 a pair, and diesel jeans are double that. Way to much for a pair of jeans IMO. It be badass to walk around in a $600 pair of jeans, but unpractical for me atleast.

      Apc are about the highest ill pay for a pair of jeans, and thats pushing it at $165. I do wear jeans for a atleast a year if not longer, so its worth it in the long run.

      -Dan

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      • #33
        I have three pairs of True Religions, three pairs of Rock & Republics, a pair of Diesel's and a pair of M.E.K's. Those are the only jeans I wear. I've had most for around a year or so, so I guess it's worth it to me.

        Before I got nice jeans I used to rock Levi's, Freeworlds, and some other stuff. People may say "oh I don't see a difference" but honestly, my Rock & Republics feel like pajama pants compared to the Levi's.
        Just 'cause you wear that shit doesn't make people be like "omg you're so cool fuck me." it's more of a preference thing I guess.
        Sam | SICKTRACKS

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Stephen View Post
          im a levis man myself. Like 8 pairs of them now
          yup, 511's all day errrday

          ig: @jonnie86

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          • #35
            Originally posted by omarsxb951 View Post
            There are quite few companies that make this style jeans, I have a pair of FiveFour's that are this style. Kinda remind me of Levi's 501's that Greasers/cholos used to wear in high school but based on the brands you're talking about I'm guessing they're high end.
            just because it's selvedge doesn't mean it's raw/dry. dry denim is unwashed, like you said, just like the 501's. you basically wear them without washing them and they break in, you get the fades on the front known as whiskering, behind you knees, known as honey comb, as well in other places obviously. they end up pretty much forming to your body making potentially the most comfortable pair of jeans you have ever owned.

            Originally posted by Uyles View Post
            I have three pairs of True Religions, three pairs of Rock & Republics, a pair of Diesel's and a pair of M.E.K's. Those are the only jeans I wear. I've had most for around a year or so, so I guess it's worth it to me.
            trust me, i wore true religions and all that labelwhore shit at one point too. they can not come close to my super budget cheap mondays.


            Originally posted by Tuck&Poke View Post
            yup, 511's all day errrday
            511's are nice, but i've come to notice i can't wear them in the summer....too constricting and make my crotch feel like florida.

            www.effineuro.com

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            • #36
              UNIQLO S002 Selvedge denim for the win!
              $45 for raw rope dyed selvedge.
              Slim fit or regular fit.
              SO good.

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              • #37
                uhhh....tell me more!

                www.effineuro.com

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                • #38
                  Do they come in size 38? My biggest problem with "fashionable" jeans is they are all in such damn small sizes. I need a couple new pairs though, I really wore my current ones out this winter.

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                  • #39
                    uniqlo, topman, and levis. only jeans I buy now. I have a pair of triumvir dark washed that I am in love with. But the $160 price tag I wasn't, so I stick to the cheaps now.


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                    • #40
                      I have a pair of Earnest Sewn jeans, I like them, they're slightly more comfortable than my Levis.

                      Three years ago I'd never have worn jeans. Too uncomfortable. I still favor sweat pants.

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                      • #41
                        soo, bumping this. i finally used a giftcard for urban outfitters on monday and got a new pair.
                        they were only 70 bucks, made by comune www.thecomune.com
                        seems like a pretty cool company. the fit on these bitches is amazing. they are super lightweight, which most aren't fans of, but i wanted a summertime jean until i get some 19-21oz selvedge in winter if i haven't blown all my cash on my e30.

                        www.effineuro.com

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                        • #42
                          on rotation right now:
                          apc rescue
                          rrl slim straight (i freaking love these -- they're an older pair. whiskers and hige are off the chain)
                          a pair of kmw's

                          used to have:
                          501 made in japan selvedge
                          sugar cane okinawa

                          coming soon:
                          iron heart 21oz 634 -- after i buy an ipad first haha

                          my brother's a dry denim whore too -- i think he's rotating through helmut langs and a limited/special edition pair of iron heart's right now.

                          is anybody else on styleforum/superfuture?

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                          • #43
                            i used to lurk on superfuture a liiiiiiittle bit.especially when i was first learning about this.

                            www.effineuro.com

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                            • #44
                              to the OP, i went from a pair of Cheap Mondays to HUF slim fits and now Naked & Famous. I highly suggest the N&F denim. It has a different weave compared to most denim which helps it keep shape nicely. The other thing is they won't swell like APC's do. Make sure to size down 2 sizes for APC's, they WILL stretch a lot.

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                              • #45
                                i agree, N&F is becoming my new favorite. However, I am currently on the hunt for some good grey selvedge, and I am not sold on the color of the N&F.

                                As far as APC, if you plan to wear them hard, I would recommend 3 sizes down for NS, but thats me as they stretched a ton and i want a skinnier fit, so it all depends on the OP's style, skinny or slim

                                any ideas on gray? i tried N&F, and I dont know any others as denim bar and co-op/barneys here doesnt have anything else...thats under $250.

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