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1967 Pro-Touring 122 Amazon (Project Volvo X)540 Horsepower LS6/Tremec TKO600 5-Speed

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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    Here are some pics of some of the new motor set in, and with some of the finish welding on the firewall body, and all looks pretty good. I cant get good shots of the headers that will show the clearances, but there is plenty off room.. The passenger side pictures looks like the headers are right on the body, but they arent, and they drop in from the top with no issue. There is plenty of room for engine torque, along with servicing.

    You can see that there is plenty of accessory room in the front of the motor, along with plenty of room behind, so you can reach all the bellhousing bolts along with other needs like wire routing.













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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    I tried the production rear end assembly today, and it all looks great. I didnt button everything up tight, because it will have to be removed for powder coating, right after I get all the rest of the car buttoned up.














    I have the offset of the wheel about dialed in, and I think the flares are going to work out better than I had hoped.. I havent finished them out yet, because I wanted to make sure they wouldnt need any tweeking for the final production rear end assemblies. These pictures are at a slightly loaded ride height position, sort of like you would have someone sitting in the back seat, or a load in the trunk









    The final header tweek looks like they will work out perfectly, so we will begin final production on these also, and they will be alot cleaner looking bare metal or coated header, than what is pictured here. Keep in mind, these headers drop in from the top, after the motor is already installed, so there isnt alot of the typical header installation issues.










    Now that these items are dialed in, I can start the firewall kit install and do all the finish welding to the rest of the car, so it should be full steam ahead now.. I cant wait to get the new motor set in, with all the engine bay welded, cleaned, and prepped, because it will finally feel like progress is happening.. There are so many behind the scenes things going on, and now that they are almost at the end, production on all the cars should be a breeze in the future.

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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    Got a couple of items in today... I recieved the uncoated version of the Swedish Ops/Sanderson LS Conversion Headers, and they came out pretty nice.. They will not be offered in stainless, but will come with a coated option. As you can see, the spark plugs have great access, so maintenance and tune up will be very easy.















    Here you will see the final production Swedish Ops/Speedway Engineering Mod-Light 9in rear end assembly. I have the 13 Wilwood brake kit attached to it, and it is complete with an emergency brake set up.














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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    Got a delivery today.. It came fully accessorized and run/PCM tuned, so it is basically turn key at 538 horsepower LS6, so look out.. LOL The standard Swedish Ops (Special Builds Division) car will be a 375 horse LS1, which is more than adequate for the job.







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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    The wheels are getting closer to being completed, so I can finally set this car back on the ground. I dont have any wheels that will fit over the 14in/13in front and rear brakes, so I cant wait to get them in.. You can see the custom logo'ing that is being done, and along with that, the center caps will have the Swedish Ops (Special Builds Division) logo.

    After all that is done, they will then be done in a Brushed Aluminum finish and clear coated, for that Unfinished Machine look the rest of the body is going for..

    All the cool stuff should start coming in shorlty, so I will have some great update really soon..







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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    Originally posted by MikeyRa View Post
    This thread delivers so much!

    Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk
    I try.. LOL Just wait to see what is coming in the next few weeks..

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  • MikeyRa
    replied
    This thread delivers so much!

    Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk

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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    I was messing with air dam mock up a bit, and I think this will look much better.. I have extened the splitter out about 1.5in further than the bumper, and it appears to give it a bit more dimension, rather than just have the appearance of the splitter just beind cut off at the edge of the body. I have also cut out the brake cutouts, and mocked them up on the opposite side.. Once I feel comfortable all this will work, I will add the steel reinforcement to the air dam for its mounting and splitter mounting, along with make it fit the fenders better.. I will not blend/bond this unit into the body, because I want to be able to remove it and service it at anytime.. I also dont want any ground clearance accidents affecting the body of the car, so it will definitly have to be a seperated piece.







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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    I am waiting for a few more of the exhaust pieces to make it in, but here is the X-pipe and flexible joint setup I am planning on running.. As I have said earlier, I will be solid mounting the mufflers and tail pipes to eliminate any chance of body rattle, due to the tight tolerances I have set up with the exhuast tips.

    I plan running an electric dump setup for an open exhaust option, but I am going to run the dumped exhaust through the same tips, rather than just exit on the ground underneath the car. I think I have the room, and can do it, by adding a custom Y-pipe just before the mufflers, so the unrestricted exhaust can go through the rocker tips, while bypassing the mufflers..

    At this time, it appears that this is going to be the bulkiest part of the exhaust, when it comes to running it back, so things should work great with a ground clearance.. This narrow exhaust setup will fit up in the center floor board relief, and shouldnt be more than a half inch below the pinch weld on the rockers, which is the lowest part of the exhaust.







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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    I lowered the car down on the 215/35/18 front tire, and this represents the ballpark ride height, and it appears the air dam might not be that far off.. I might end up going with a slightly larger tire, maybe a 225/35, but I wont know until the wheels get here.. I dont have any wheels that will fit over the 14in brakes at this time, so the suspension is obviously not loaded, but here are a few pictures of the Air Dam at the approximate ride height.

    There is a 4.5in ground clearance with the center of the air dam at this ride height, and I think that is a great start for being a rough and adjustable first mounting, so it could work out just fine. That is if the look is worth the effort of course.. It hasnt quite grown on me, but I think I am getting there, it all the cut outs and hardware works out fine.






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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    I have an idea to modify and brace the IPD air dam, so it would be more of an adjustable splitter.. I am thinking that I will be able to bring it up and behind the bumper a bit, and have the adjustable splitter wing at the bottom of the air dam.. It would have the turn buckle style adjusters, and would extend forward enough to outline the shape of the front bumper.. I hope that make sense, because that is what I have in my head.. LOL

    It would be something like these rough pictures below, with more of the finished look of the turn buckles on the last picture.. I will have to cut out the holes that are in the IPD air dam, and put them on the opposite side, so they will be the proper direction to function and brake coolers. I am am not sure on the 2 or 4 adjuster setup, but this will give you an idea of the direction I had in mind to the IPD alterations.

    Keep in mind that these pictures are just rough cuts, because I like to get a Cardboard and duct tape look, before I waste too much time fabricating something that I will just throw away.. I dont have the actual height of the air dam set, because I cant do all that until the wheels make it in, so I can set it up for the proper ride height.. I am expecting that it will be less bulky, because it will have to be brought up a bit more into the bumper/body.













    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 11-09-2012, 07:11 PM.

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  • Miroteknik
    replied
    this is on par with the senza pari z build, if not better. love the old volvos, and the work you are doing is absolutely phenomenal. can't wait to see it done.

    on a side note, (my worthless opinion) the "halo" in the current headlights is far too small to look any good, and it doesnt look very bright either. I would eliminate it altogether, and maybe set the actual projector as far back into the headlight as possible. it is slightly unsightly for the projector lens to be so prominent and visible because it really takes away from the beauty of the original vintage headlight. the extremely "techy" headlight setups of today do not blend well at all into classic cars. sorry to rant, and i understand this is only my opinion, but i had to mention it. k i'll shut up now

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  • Iamtheonlyreal1
    replied
    Here are the preliminary pictures of the Power Window Conversion, and I will be posting some pictures of the One Piece Door Glass Conversion also, but that will come just a bit later.. I am waiting on the tempered side glasses to make it in, along with the new channel and belt line weatherstrips to make it in.. The one piece glass conversion is a very easy converion, along with the Power Window Regulator Conversion..

    Here are some pics of the power window regulator assembly that I have chosen, because it will fit into the factory inside door opening, and also offers alot of glass support and stabilizing during operation





    Here is the cut necessary to make the regulator work out to be in the right postion and run angle.. It is a very simple cut, and the supplied regulator mount plate/brace will work as a template for the new brace holes, because it used key reference points on the door to position itself for drilling.

    As you can see the original arm rest mounting is not affected, and this new plate actually addes additional rigidity where the arm rest mounts.. The power regulator kit can be used with the original glass and vent window for the guys that like the OEM look.. We will also have a power window switch that actually converts your window crank handle into the power window switches, and works just by bumping the handle up or down.. I am not a big fan of the typical rocker style power window switches and mounting that typically comes with this type of conversion, but our supplied rocker switches are actually compact and pretty nice looking.












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  • Semu
    replied
    This is going to be one sick piece of machinery!

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  • Svenska94Aero
    replied
    I love me some old Swedes, especially with this level of fab work. Sub'd, eagerly waiting for more!

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