T&P...
I'd get all new tie rods and fully disassemble them and lube liberally w/ anti-seize, even the lock nut/bolt (depending on your tie rod design). I always do this when doing suspension work on cars. It pays dividends later.
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Track status:
I know what I'm doing:
I actually got compliments on my fitment when I was at the track, I didn't even think real life people talked about that kinda thing.
I get about 10k miles on my front tires, 7k on the rear.
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im unning -2 rear but my toyo proxes last about 7k miles. so i will replace them after 2-3 years haha
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i dont fit on the rack :p
im just lazy, theres a shop down here that will align anything you bring them, they do all the serious cars down here. One day ill get off my lazy ass and do it
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Have him align it then if he knows the problem
If it is a VW problem I would have them align it for you, for free or low cost. That is what I would try first.
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my knowledge only goes as far as to its a common issue, i have a friend who is a tech at a vw dealership which is how i know its common
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Well if that is what is required to do an alignment than that is what is required. Find a shop that will do an alignment
Why is the bolt getting seized?
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no, if i change it the same thing will happen after a little while. Common problem with this chassis. The real way to do it is lift the car, remove wheel, break the nut loose with a long breaker bar, put the wheel back on and throw it on the rack.
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no one wants to align my car
the tie rods seize and theyre way up top in the wheel well so its a mission to get to. I cant tell you how many times ive been turned down
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Originally posted by verlumpt View Postbeyond -3 you can start to see some wear from camber even if your toe is at zero.
-2.5 to -2.8 is about the limit for this.
any toe outside of zero at these camber levels will greatly increase your tire wear. Which is a big issue w/ older bmw's as the rear isn't adjustable unless you do slotted subframe w/ eccetrics.
I think another factor is that many lower their cars and don't get it aligned afterwards and just assume it's because they're low w/ camber.
My $0.02 on my experiences.
Originally posted by Tuck&Poke View Posti put my falkens on in February, its july and my rears are just above the wear marks, my fronts are shot on the inside. I gotta flip the tires in the front and i can probably get another 5K miles out of them. Camber is approx -3 in the front and like -.8 in the back or something like that. My front toe is out of alignment, i just eyeballed it, and my rear isnt adjustable
If you just eyeballed it that is why they are dead. I am guessing the toe is out of spec by a good margin and it ate the tires up.
I am a couple months on my falkens and I am ~ -3 in the front and -2.5 in the back and they are flat wear across the tread. If I actually cleaned up and cared about my tires they would look brand new.
I have to hit the alignment shop again here soon as I need to install new front control arms, bushings and tie rod assemblies.
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i put my falkens on in February, its july and my rears are just above the wear marks, my fronts are shot on the inside. I gotta flip the tires in the front and i can probably get another 5K miles out of them. Camber is approx -3 in the front and like -.8 in the back or something like that. My front toe is out of alignment, i just eyeballed it, and my rear isnt adjustable
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beyond -3 you can start to see some wear from camber even if your toe is at zero.
-2.5 to -2.8 is about the limit for this.
any toe outside of zero at these camber levels will greatly increase your tire wear. Which is a big issue w/ older bmw's as the rear isn't adjustable unless you do slotted subframe w/ eccetrics.
I think another factor is that many lower their cars and don't get it aligned afterwards and just assume it's because they're low w/ camber.
My $0.02 on my experiences.
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