wow - I can appreciate all the hard work you put into your car!
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Grand Am GT build.... yup! A Grand Am lol
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91 DiamondSchwartzMetallic S52 Slicktop, 91 Calypso M42, 89 Royalblau M20, 84 Euro E30, M535, Euro e24, ap1
www.RenownUSA.com
ig @rudestance / @renownusa
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I had the same issue pulling the cv out of an escort long ago. Took the three hole exhaust flange for a Chevy truck, cut off one part of the "triangle" and tapped the remaining two holes and put bolts in it. Slide the flange in and thread the bolts against the case. out she pops...typically I just use a prybar though
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Originally posted by animal View Postwow - I can appreciate all the hard work you put into your car!
Originally posted by cavy00 View PostI had the same issue pulling the cv out of an escort long ago. Took the three hole exhaust flange for a Chevy truck, cut off one part of the "triangle" and tapped the remaining two holes and put bolts in it. Slide the flange in and thread the bolts against the case. out she pops...typically I just use a prybar though
not much of a update but it's sometimes tough to get in the garage with working 6days a week and still trying to have a social life haha
coilpacks mounted using a combination of 3400/3500 brackets, still need to take it off and trim some pieces off but at least it fits using all 4 mounting points.... chopped off the 3400 top mounts and majority of the 3500 bracket, drilled new holes to match a already tapped one on the 3500 bracket and welded a nut on the backside for the other bolt
notched the 3400 fuel rail so the FPR will mount on a somewhat angle and grinded some of the UIM but still to close for my liking, was scared of cutting through the rail but I guess I'll go a little bit more lol
Last edited by _HeC_; 10-23-2014, 09:55 PM.
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this thing is awesome!
sigpic1991 BMW 318i (M52 Swap)
BUILD:http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=71013 http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=66246
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thanks guys and the wheels have faded a LOT since those pictures but will more then likely change for next season, this was from about a month ago
need to get my headers hooked up so did some shopping after work today... all 2.5" and some o2 bungs since my headers for some reason never got drilled for the main o2 sensor but kind of glad as it was designed to only read from the front 3 cylinders so going to move it down to the merge
headers will be getting sandblasted and POR-20 high heat coating(1400 F)
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my sandblaster wasn't cooperating with me so ended up sanding majority of my headers by hand
POR-20
clearance issue's with my headers and T-stat housing
needed to notch my battery tray to get it to fit with the CAI, also running W-body plug wires for anyone curious on how I routed them under the UIM
65mm LX5 TB worked great for my vac lines, still need to weld up the TB cable bracket
external crank trigger with 3400 crank pulley and 2nd 3400 crank sensor behind it
and the start to my downpipe, going to move the flex closer to the flange... easiest DP ever with those S&S headers lol
got the starter to crank with the key as well
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TB bracket.... had the 3400 and LX5 to play with and pretty much chopped the middle out of the LX5 and cut the 3400 to fit in, still needs work as you can see lol
got a little trigger happy while tacking it in and melted my TB cable clip... stupid mistake on my part but what can you do, and my PS pump decided to leak like crazy on 1st start up so need to head to the wreckers anyways
winter plans might include 3" so didn't bother buying a cat for the little time ill get to drive it this yr
while swapping crank pulleys I noticed 7484 stamped on my crank and that means forged, and rods in these things are powder forged as well so perhaps some ARP head studs, cam, springs and try my luck with some boost.... really want to focus on suspension this winter though and perhaps new wheels so see what happens
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thanks man
called the wreckers while at work the other day to get a PS pump and TB cable, I showed up 4hrs later and they never bothered to remove a cable for meI had no tools on me, wearing shorts and it was -2 out so I didn't bother going in the yard myself, only went home with a PS pump as they had it sitting on a shelf... Plastic welded my TB cable and its holding up just great though! and as you can see I needed to extend my MAF wiring
the reason for a new pump....dirty PS fluid EVERYWHERE
I still only had 3 out of 4 mounts holding this drivetrain in so got my J-body poly bushing installed in the N-body mount and needed to drill the sleeve out (15/32" drill bit)
remember to use some sort of fluid and go SLOW or you will just ruin your drill bit, went out to the shed and tossed it in the vice for this
installed, I forgot to install the small heatshield around the bushing bolt, hopefully no issues
ohh and it drives!!! put 20kms on it today, needs a battery so parked in the garage till after work when I can grab a new one
was very shocked how well my DIY alignment worked out and had a check engine light pop up even with my modified PCM, P1810 TFP valve position switch circuitLast edited by _HeC_; 11-16-2014, 06:03 PM.
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nah your talking to a 60degreeV6 guy and we refer to those engines as "boat anchors" lol NEVER would I replace a 60degreeV6 with that 90degreeV6 even with a SC! they weigh more, plus the wiring work and mounts isn't worth it in my eyes... toss some boost at these 3400/3500s and your laughing
my LX9 weighs roughly 350lbs compared to 450-500 for the 3800
as for the getrag 284 it would be nice but they are becoming rather hard to find these days and the newer getrag F23s can take some power.... also I found out I can use clutches from the 284 so that opens up a lot of options for me as I'm currently running a ebay "stage 3" 6 puck clutch
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