Both will work fine. 1/8" is just easier to route, since four 1/8" lines can be routed through roughly the same space as a single 1/4". Like I say, if you get the tank gauge kit from BagRiders, you'll get a whole mess of 1/8" line with it, so you might as well use it and save your 1/4" for running to the bags, you know?
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I have seen those valves used and always thought it was just normal line since the 1/4 isn't double walled like 3/8" is.My super boring build http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...other-M3-buildInsta Mintyhinrichs
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Originally posted by hinrichs View PostI have seen those valves used and always thought it was just normal line since the 1/4 isn't double walled like 3/8" is.
It might be worth shooting an e-mail to BagRiders or whomever and see whether they think 1/4" plastic DOT air line will correctly seal against barb fittings at 200 PSI. If it'll work, it'd save you a lot of fittings.
EDIT: Upon further inspection, it appears that BagRiders itself, as well as AirLift, think 1/4" plastic line will work fine with the barb fittings on the paddle valves, as Hinrichs suggests. I'll update the diagram and post it in a moment.
Sources: 1, 2, 3.Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-02-2014, 10:39 AM.
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Here's a new diagram, with 1/4" DOT air line connected directly to the barb fittings:
This is assuming you're using 1/2" DOT air line to run from the tank to the dash. It looks like 1/2" PTC fittings aren't the most common of things, so if you decide instead to go with dual 3/8" line, I can modify the diagram easily enough.
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Last edited by hinrichs; 04-02-2014, 12:44 PM.My super boring build http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...other-M3-buildInsta Mintyhinrichs
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^ The two layouts are basically equivalent, and almost topologically identical. The advantage with my layout above is the fact that all four valves will receive (roughly) identical flow. The layout you've got there works excellently, but if more than one switch is pressed simultaneously, each valve along the manifold will receive approximately twice the air flow of the valve behind it. My manifold layout should be slightly more even side-to-side when lifting. Other than that, they'll work just the same.Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-02-2014, 10:53 PM.
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Speed was never something I wanted, plus 1/4" paddles are slow anyway, really doubt adding in 1/2" line would help anything. I always started with 3/8 on my builds and sometimes went 1/8 in the rear to slow everything down, but that's just me. My only thing with your layout was all the extra fittings which could just lead to more leaks but both would work very well.My super boring build http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...other-M3-buildInsta Mintyhinrichs
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Originally posted by hinrichs View PostSpeed was never something I wanted, plus 1/4" paddles are slow anyway, really doubt adding in 1/2" line would help anything. I always started with 3/8 on my builds and sometimes went 1/8 in the rear to slow everything down, but that's just me. My only thing with your layout was all the extra fittings which could just lead to more leaks but both would work very well.08 Sentra slow build
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not sure?
turbo and my bags
Last edited by baggedb16sentra; 04-03-2014, 09:27 PM.08 Sentra slow build
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Originally posted by baggedb16sentra View Postnot sure?
Those are ptc Y unions for the air running to the paddle valves. You really only need 2 but I guess that set up is if you only want to run one air line from the tank, that separates that online to the two others. Bagriders has a helpful diagram to explain this:
This one is running 2 lines from the tank to the paddles
This one is running 1 line from the tank to the paddles, also this one has way more instructions
Hope that helps[IMG]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5441/17191163096_12105eed9a_o.jpg[/IMG]
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