1 1/2 years and still no low. lol 4x4 for life

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Fuse holder for the big power feed that will run to your trunk. You'll have to figure out what gauge wire it wants - looks like probably 4-gauge, but that's just a guess. You can measure the inside diameter of the wire sockets on either side and that'll tell you the gauge.

If it is 4-gauge, that'll be healthy overkill for a single compressor, and just about right for twin compressors. If you're planning on an audio system as well, however, you'll likely need to upgrade.

[fr3dfr3dburg3r1]

okay, not sure about that last photo too?

Last photo is what holds the fuse to for the power to the compressor. That part you want to mount right near your battery, when you hook it all up

http://www.bagriders.com/modlab/tech/install_manuals/bag_riders/bag_riders-manual-management_instructions.pdf

Top left hand corner of the second page of the pdf shows how to mount it and wire it up

[baggedb16sentra]

alright thanks, as for audio i basically just want to replace my blown speakers and thats it for me.

[baggedb16sentra]

ill be buying that tank guage next week also.

[baggedb16sentra]

I just noticed your gauges. In a previous conversation, you had indicated that you were going to run 200 PSI tank pressure in order to use all your 444cs' capability and get a little more range out of a small tank. If that's the case, that you are going to run 200 in the tank, the gauge that measures tank pressure will have to be able to read to 200 PSI. Your 150 PSI dual-needle gauges should be fine for bag pressure, however - I hit 140 PSI in the front aired all the way up on mine, and mine's a big heavy pig.

Have been doing some research after work, looked at the gauges I have what I was thinking was that I really don't need 3 dual gauges when 2 would work. Also when you mentioned the tang gauge could that take the spot of the 3rd gauge for my gauge pod.

thanks
Patrick

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

That's the idea. Hopefully the tank gauge matches well enough to what you've already got..

[baggedb16sentra]

alright so i guess that means i have an extra gauge then, also is it better to have the 4 paddles or have the 2 one for front and the other for the rear.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

You absolutely want one switch per corner.

If you have only one switch per end of the car, not only do you lose side-to-side adjustability (which you'll want if, say, someone gets into the car), but also, the two front and two rear bags will have their air connected to one another. What this means is that if you go around a corner, the inside bag will see higher pressure from the suspension compressing, and send some of its air to the outside bag. This will drop your spring rate on cornering to just about nothing (meaning wheels are going to run into fenders), but it also means you're going to have quite unpredictable handling.

People have done it, but I certainly don't recommend it.

[baggedb16sentra]

okay thanks, i feel like what i have im also missing some stuff also... moved money over bought the tank gauge (:

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Yeah, you're going to need some goodies, for sure. Let me know what you decide on compressor(s) and how hefty of line you're planning on running to the paddle valves, and I can point you in the direction of some stuff to buy to get you started.

[baggedb16sentra]

compressors are dual 444c viair basically wanna keep it simple.

[baggedb16sentra]

Last photo is what holds the fuse to for the power to the compressor. That part you want to mount right near your battery, when you hook it all up

http://www.bagriders.com/modlab/tech/install_manuals/bag_riders/bag_riders-manual-management_instructions.pdf

Top left hand corner of the second page of the pdf shows how to mount it and wire it up

kinda wanna do the dual compressor without water traps, im in tucson so ive been told not to get water traps and ill be fine. This is also going to be my DD so i would need something realiable also.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Cool. You'll be fine without water traps. We'll just make sure your tank has a drain, and you'll be fine. There's such little humidity where you're at and the climate's so warm that I doubt very much it'll be an issue.

You've still got a decision to make on what to run to your valve block. The options are as follows:

Single 1/4": Easy, cheap, and slow
Quad 1/4" like Smokenyall's ride back on page 1: Harder to run, requires lots of line, but will fill the bags as fast as the valves allow
Dual 3/8": Requires half as much line as quad 1/4" and easier to package, but requires a fair number of fittings. Will fill just as fast as quad 1/4".
Single 1/2": Same advantages and disadvantages as dual 3/8", but requires even less line, though the fittings are harder to find.

I'd either run quad 1/4" or dual 3/8" were it me. Single 1/2" would be ideal, but DOT fittings are less commonplace. Just depends on how much line you think you can cram under the carpet in your interior versus how many fittings you want to have. Let me know what you decide, and we'll go from there.

[baggedb16sentra]

i guess im stuck on what to run. I heard that there might be issues with more fittings you have for as leaking wise for the system, im probably bugging you with my stupid questions do appreciate your knowledge though.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Not at all. It's my pleasure.

More fittings means more opportunities for leaks. That said, PTC fittings are pretty rad and seal really surprisingly well. I've got absolute BOATLOADS of fittings on my setup, since it's so bloody complicated, and you know what, the only leaks I've had to fight with are on NPT fittings. Every one of the PTCs has sealed perfectly.

Quick question: how many ports does your tank have? That'll help make the decision for us.