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1 1/2 years and still no low. lol 4x4 for life

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  • hinrichs
    replied
    Speed was never something I wanted, plus 1/4" paddles are slow anyway, really doubt adding in 1/2" line would help anything. I always started with 3/8 on my builds and sometimes went 1/8 in the rear to slow everything down, but that's just me. My only thing with your layout was all the extra fittings which could just lead to more leaks but both would work very well.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    Honestly this is a lot of help from you.. lol I owe you beer or something through paypal one day! So I just looked I do have 1/4 line already, I think I just need to get the stuff you informed me of and ill be set.

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    ^ The two layouts are basically equivalent, and almost topologically identical. The advantage with my layout above is the fact that all four valves will receive (roughly) identical flow. The layout you've got there works excellently, but if more than one switch is pressed simultaneously, each valve along the manifold will receive approximately twice the air flow of the valve behind it. My manifold layout should be slightly more even side-to-side when lifting. Other than that, they'll work just the same.
    Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-02-2014, 10:53 PM.

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  • hinrichs
    replied
    You can also just run one line from the tank into a ptc manifold then to the switches. Here is a simple diagram which works very well, and is very simple.

    Last edited by hinrichs; 04-02-2014, 12:44 PM.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    okay well ill look when im off work at what i have for my parts.

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Here's a new diagram, with 1/4" DOT air line connected directly to the barb fittings:



    This is assuming you're using 1/2" DOT air line to run from the tank to the dash. It looks like 1/2" PTC fittings aren't the most common of things, so if you decide instead to go with dual 3/8" line, I can modify the diagram easily enough.

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Originally posted by hinrichs View Post
    I have seen those valves used and always thought it was just normal line since the 1/4 isn't double walled like 3/8" is.
    That may be. The couple of things I've read suggested people had to adapt to rubber hose to interface with the barb fittings, but I've got zero personal experience, since mine's PTC everywhere.

    It might be worth shooting an e-mail to BagRiders or whomever and see whether they think 1/4" plastic DOT air line will correctly seal against barb fittings at 200 PSI. If it'll work, it'd save you a lot of fittings.

    EDIT: Upon further inspection, it appears that BagRiders itself, as well as AirLift, think 1/4" plastic line will work fine with the barb fittings on the paddle valves, as Hinrichs suggests. I'll update the diagram and post it in a moment.

    Sources: 1, 2, 3.
    Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-02-2014, 10:39 AM.

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  • hinrichs
    replied
    I have seen those valves used and always thought it was just normal line since the 1/4 isn't double walled like 3/8" is.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    okay thanks i gotta get that and see what i have at my house.

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Both will work fine. 1/8" is just easier to route, since four 1/8" lines can be routed through roughly the same space as a single 1/4". Like I say, if you get the tank gauge kit from BagRiders, you'll get a whole mess of 1/8" line with it, so you might as well use it and save your 1/4" for running to the bags, you know?

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    alright ill have to look into, so using 1/8th line would be a lot better then 1/4?

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    No math, just lots of fittings.

    Feel free to substitute 1/4" air line for the 1/8" in the diagram - I only included the 1/8" because if you get the tank pressure gauge combo kit thing from BagRiders, you'll have a ton of extra 1/8" line. Might as well use it, since it's a lot easier to route than 1/4".

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    On my phone so hard to read. This looks to be math and I struggled in math lol thanks alot. I owe you

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Looks like you've got barb fittings there, so those are paddle valves, which'll save you the cost of a valve assembly, though you'll have a fair amount of air line routing to do.

    As far as I know, DOT air line will not seal to a barb fitting, so you're going to want to get a short length of 1/4" 200 psi rubber air hose and make some adapters with a 1/4" barb x 1/4" NPT fitting and a 1/4" NPT x 1/4" PTC fitting to connect the DOT air line (which wants a PTC connection) to the paddles.

    Here's the layout of how I'd go about it. Everything in the diagram is available either at BagRiders or at any decent hardware store, with the exception of the manifold, which I'd get [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-Manifold-2-Inch-Supply/dp/B008PZ627C/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1396307627&sr=8-50&keywords=1%2F2%22+npt+manifold"]here[/ame]. You could also make a manifold out of a bunch of tee fittings, but it'll be bigger and have a lot more points where it could leak.


    ^ StanceWorks is resizing my images, so you'll have to click on it to load it in a separate window and zoom in.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied


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