Holy crap, that's some aggressive fitment in the rear.
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A couple of minor updates.
Finally moved into a place with a garage.
So now I can work on it more often!
Finally tried on the rear bumper.
Not a fan of the mesh and holes. Might have to fill those in. (also new exhaust will be happening)
A big fan of how the front's looking.
Still need to cut guards.
weld stuff and one day have a partly completed car
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Holy.. I was skeptical at first whether or not I was going to like this.. I love it haha. Keep up the great work.My 2011 Toyota Vitz build thread.
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=56411
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Niiiice, hope the conversion goes smoothly. Excited to see it done!My 2011 Toyota Vitz build thread.
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=56411
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Been working on a manual conversion.
Bit of a learning curve for me. And nothings just bolt in being the car that it is...
I'm making a lot up as I go as I don't think anyone has done this for this series 929.. Not with the standard motor at least.
This is my first time doing this sort of thing so no doubt I'll make a few mistakes but that's how I'll learn.
Any input appreciated.
So I threw the car up as high as I could get it.
Pulled some of the exhaust out which was a pain as some bolts were rusted.
Pulled out the drive shaft.
Put it next to my luce 929 drive shaft (auto one has the rubber glove on it)
Bought an R33 Skyline hand break from a wreckers. Got the mount too.
played around a lot with positioning with the mount / seat and centre console.
Decided on right here.
Which fit well between the seat and centre console.
*I had to get the cable cut and shortened by an engineer.*
and of course pulled out the foot brake to make room for the clutch pedal.
Got to work getting the gearbox out.
took a lot of time getting frustrated with undoing plugs and reaching hard to get to bolts.
First thing you should really do is drain the oil. (I didn't do it well haha) Do this by unbolting the oil pan from the bottom of the auto trans from one end so the oil can drain out. make sure a bucket is ready!
Bolt up the oil pan again.
Remove all items that will get caught when the gearbox drops out.
ie pull the starter motor as much out of the way as possible.
remove oil lines etc.
Then make sure you have jack under the box.
once that's supporting it. undo the bell housing bolts. There are two up the top that are pretty hard to get to.
I found out the hard way but you'll need to undo the torque converter from the fly wheel. Reach in through this access slot. and crank over the engine to access the next bolts etc.
Once you are sure everythings undone.
Then you can carefully undo the rear gearbox mount. Careful not to be under it.
You should be able to lower the jack slowly. (I had blocks of wood under the bellhousing to support it incase it was imbalanced.
Also I recommend doing this with someone else as it's pretty hard by yourself and the auto trans is heavy!
Trans out.
manual vs auto for comparison.
Empty hole.
I'll add some more stuff tomorrow.
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Originally posted by mikey G View PostSo awesome man, I really want to try my hand at an auto to manny conversion. Love the documented process..
Had a bit of fun drilling through the firewall.
Made a template out of card to position the master cylinder. (I’m using an RX7 S4/5 Master and slave)
Thought I measured it correctly. But obviously didn’t as the top of the bottle was fowling on some metal in the bay.
So I could either re drill… Cut out the metal. Or bend it up.
Being in a tight space in the engine bay bending it up wasn’t going to be easy.
But I got a random idea…
What if I get a trolly jack under the car. and position a bar under the part I needed bent up.
Then the weight of the car should bend it up as the trolly jack is raised…
Needless to say it worked !
Might need to bend it up a little more. But will work for now.
Also test fitted the Mazda Famillia 4wd clutch pedal to the other side of the clutch master.
Positioning seems ok. Will have another look tonight.. Seems a bit high and over to the left at the moment..
Not super easy as the firewall is all sorts of angles as this model sentia was never designed for a 5 speed.
That’s all for now.
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Originally posted by willlarney View Postnow lets see it with ridiculous tilt
Thought I'd play around with the pedals tonight. Tried another in there. Similar also from a Mazda. Fits better I reckon. But the pedal still feels quite high...
Anyway. A shot from the drivers side looking through to the slave master cylinder.
The pedals.
Oscar the one eyed monster.
I also thought I'd take a picture of the torque converter. As I had never seen one before this job.
Heavy bloody thing.
Finally I also got a new bearing for the flywheel. Using loctite. I have tightened the bolts with a torque wrench. Need more leverage as I can't get it to click on the highest setting. (280nm)
It's days like these you wish you had a hoist. Everything would be so much easier.
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dang
at first i was like oh no, this thread is gonna get ugly fast..
17"s are the way to go tho on this platform
liked everything after you got rid of the 19'sFloccinaucinihilipilification
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Originally posted by P78 View Postdang
at first i was like oh no, this thread is gonna get ugly fast..
17"s are the way to go tho on this platform
liked everything after you got rid of the 19's
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Please do not go too VIPPY on this one (read: rediculous camber and stretched/rusty guards).
Dus add some distinguished flares in body color and it's all good
I love the new wheels btwLucas
Former daily: 2002 CLK 500 AMG - (sold) . . . . . . . . .
Project: 1986 W124 260E rebuild - (3.0 swap) . . . . . . . . . Follow me on IG : @loekaazDaily: 2004 Pontiac GTO. . . . . . . . . Daily Econobox: 2009 Mini Clubman CooperOriginally posted by LCGHigh 21! It's like a high 5 but includes both hands, both feet and a boner.
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