Røvarin, Zic's e28 thread.

[Zic]

So much for not going crazy.

Hahaha yeah, it was only time until someone pointed it out what I said on the first page

Will have another update shortly

[oHSo EuRo]

So much for not going crazy.

[Zic]

So uh yeah, lets get those rusty mounting points fixed shall we.


The rust as seen in the previous post.


This is actually the other side, but the principal is the same. Her the old rot was cut out, then it got a once over with some weld through primer.


Cut a plate to fill out the hole. Made of 3mm steal instead of the normal 0.8mm.


Drilled some holes in it, extra strength yo.


Back side of the plate primed.


A little welded.


A lot welded and primed.


Then I started removing the undersealant to look for rust. Used one of these.


This was after about 1½-2 hours.


Hrrrrng, sealer that is about 4-5mm thick. Takes along time to cut through it, BMW did it right in the 80's,


When i was on board my ship, i made some parts on the lathe. These are rivets/or something that will hold the brake line clips.


Outside diameter is 6mm and inside thread is M4.


How i machined them down.

This idea was taken from E28fredrik from the SW forums, link to his amazing build thread is Here



After that, i took the angle grinder and chooooopped a bit of the car. Both jack points of the car removed, someone had welded some stupid plate over to cover rust underneath.


Than my hand kinda slipped, and made the two little holes into a single huge one


Here is where i am at the moment, you can make out that i am holding two pieces of metal, one long and a short bent one. The long will be bent to the small ones curvature and then welded. Going to get some metal bent at a shop so i can weld the side sills back on.

until next time. alright

[Zic]

Hey, really really well done sir...!

In for some news ...

Haha, and love the "dusty trunk draw" btw !

Haha thanks dude my gf was bored when she drew that.

Nice work, man!
This is turning out great!

Thanks man

Keep up the good work!

Thanks man


Alright so picking up where i stopped on the last post.


Time to tackle this sheeet right here.
I do not have a lift, so access to the rust spots are little, no way i was gonna lay on my back, grinding, welding and so on. So i decided to build a car rotisserie.








Alright enough random photos, i was planing on doing a wright up on how i did it, and what material i used. But the photo uploads got interrupted. So I'll do it another time.


Here is the front suspended.


And we got lift of! I almost lost the car on the side, because of i bought some grade 4.6 bolts by mistake




Here is what i am up against.

Oh snap, i forgot to upload the rest where i did one mount, will have to wait until I have a decent internet connection.

Front and rear sub-frame modifications! The front sub-frame is prone to braking the steering box mount and the rear sub-frame is non adjustable. Time to change that!


This is the front sub-frame mounting point. a little piece of bent metal.


Mounted the steering box, and drilled a 12mm hole through it.


Chopped of the mounting point.



Inserted a dowel I made, then I tig welded it in place. Saw the idea online, and decided to make me sub-frame mo betta. And to keep up with this post, i forgot to upload the measurements. This dowel was made with a lathe, its threaded for a 12mm bolt, if i remember correctly it was 28mm wide and 90mm long (got cut down when i did the final assembly) with a 12mm threaded hole.



Time for the rear sub-frame. As being a DIY'er I did not want to buy those camber/toe weld in plates. So i bought four new eccentric bolts/washers of the BMW E34 M5.


I simply welded in some pieces of metal, vertically for the toe correction and horizontally for the camber adjustment. Then the holes were slotted. Toe adjustment is made with the outer mounting points and camber for the inner mounting points.


One fully adjustable sub-frame.






Everything granite blasted and painted.


Oh and for every design aspect you need to have a carefully designed blue print


and another random photo, this time of the wiring, it will be cleaned and wrapped.

Alright, next time i will have some photos of the finished mounting point, and some tips for removing under sealing from the car.

[lordicon232]

Keep up the good work!

[Shepherd]

Nice work, man!
This is turning out great!

[Laef]

Hey, really really well done sir...!

In for some news ...

Haha, and love the "dusty trunk draw" btw !

[Zic]

Alrighty, as shown from the last post. I'll run some new wheels next time this car hit the streets. And next up is making them fit.





The rear wheels are about 17x10.6" with 245/35 not sure about offset, since I've hacked up the wheels. And still need to do some milling to the faces. This picture shows the rear tire beaded on, and the front tire just sitting on the barrel/lip. Unsure what spec I will build the fronts to. But thinking 9.5. If you need more info on the wheels, you can look at my wheel thread.



A shot from the rear, Love the fitment, but it will hit. So About 2-3mm needed of clearance.



To avoid any rubbing, I have two options, camber or rework the fenders. (I already rolled them to fit the 17x10et19 AC Schnitzers) To get the best result i decided on doing both things. And as a added bonus you can adjust toe, if you make the subframe fully adjustable. All th e30/34/28/24/21 etc suffer from toe when lowered too much.



Gaining more camber on the e28 (and other old bmw's) You need to remove the rear subframe, work a little magic on it. then bolt it back up. I took this out by my self, and lets just say it was fun.




I bought OEM m5 e34 eccentric bolts and washers, part number 33 31 2 226 445 and 33 31 2 226 446 (need four of everything). I used the OEM nuts as well, just could not find the part number for them.
In those pictures you can see the eccentric bolt, the hole it is sitting in, needs to be elongated, usually when this is done, the inner bolts for the trailing arm are used for camber (meaning that those holes need to be elongated vertically) and the other holes for adjusting toe need to be elongated horizontally.



This is the inner hole that will be modified for camber.



Before taking out the subframe i also made some room for the wheels. This is the trailing arm grounded down for space. It was later welded up to get the strength back.



Here is a really bad photo of the arm welded up.




Annnnnnd the worst part. Rust were the subframe mounts to the body. I'll have to remove it, and re-weld. I'm going to reinforce the mounting points as well.





After those bad news, i packed everything away. And now I'm on board a ship doing my job, will be back tho. whilst I'm on board I'm machining some reinforcement for the front subframe that I'll show you guys as well.

But some good news is that there are two front doors coming from Denmark to me, hopefully they will be as rust free as the seller describes them, and the car will be getting some paint soon.



Oh forgot this photo, the car is pretty clean for its age.

[Zic]

New wheels? They look swell.

Some home made wheels, you can check my thread on them, it is in the wheel section.

nice!

It's very cool!))) I just thought yesterday and was able to find and buy the brakes from E32 750 (4 pornshnya), like the fact that they are installed without alterations and adapters!)))

Yeah i think those fit without any adapters, good luck with your project man

[kaliningrad39]

It's very cool!))) I just thought yesterday and was able to find and buy the brakes from E32 750 (4 pornshnya), like the fact that they are installed without alterations and adapters!)))

[cullen61918]

nice!

[floatingdino]

New wheels? They look swell.

[Zic]

Alrighty then, Time for the brake upgrade wright up.
Short story was that i got a set of M-Class 4-pot brembo calipers for swapping a engine.
So I started digging around what to do. Ended up buying some 348x32mm discs for a E60 540i, upon closer inspection they were for the 750i E66.
When i test fitted the rotors to the strut, and took some measurements it was a nice surprise that it would clear the wheel without spacers since the 750i rotors are offset differently than the 540i.



One brake disc, caliper and strut.



Stock vs the 750i



The disc and caliper are not mounted on there. Just for test fitting.



Here with the face and a barrel mounted upside down. Lucky that everything cleared.



Did anyone say tight fitment?
Clears by 3mm



Picture is unclear but this shows the gap between the strut and caliper. After centering the caliper to the brake disc, I measured it to be 9mm. So I did some research to find out if 9mm steel would be strong enough, and everything points in that direction. The weakest link will be the bolts holding everything together. For that i used M12x1.25 (fine thread) grade 12.9. Those will be plenty strong.



Shows how the bracket will be made.




After making a few paper templates, i went for it and made one out of steel. This is the result.



Everything mounted. Caliper painted and gotten the logo. Caliper will be dismantled and getting new gaskets and new Hella Pagid brake pads.



Giggity, here is a hint for the next post

[NeilP]

Lovely work! Excited to see it all back together asap!

[Zic]

I just bought myself from E38 brakes (4 piston Brembo) nkzhno make an adapter and I think that's what put the brake disc that would put their R17 wheel !!

Sounds awesome man, I'll show how i did mine. :alirght0

Oh s*hit! The need for rust repairs escalated quickly!

Keep up the good work!

-Timo

Yeah it sucked, glad to be almost through with it.

Seeing that picture with the lip on makes it oh so exciting. I reaaallly want to see more progress now haha best of luck with it!

THanks man! yeah me too. Can't wait to finish it.