my kraut burner

[hakhawk]

so some goodies turned up today

aluminum flywheel(with new bolts)
new brake master cylinders(original ones i decided were too big :p)
fittings to suit(for the remote reservoirs)
ireland engineering camber kit, mucho more camber adjustment for me!!
safety wire pliers
swaybar nylon bushes(2 sets, so if/when they flog out, i can swap em in straight away)
spherical bearings for future control arms(needed them to confirm measurements/angles)
stainless steel brake line, gotta make some new lines, so might as well add a bit of bling(couldnt find anything on ADR's and stainless line, if anyone knows, tell me)
inner rear wheel bearing seals, can finally get the wheel bearings done!!



and i got some more supplies from work to keep going on the wiring.

got the fuse holders and relays done and mounted(i think theyre done, still need to test it all :p). miscalculated position of the relays, so had to move them over a bit. hole in the firewall is for battery terminal(its right where a welded bracket i dont need is, proving to be a pain to remove :p). once ive welded the hole from the old grommet, ill ziptie up all that wiring monster in the corner, so its all neat. would looooooooooooooooooooove to redo all the wiring in the car, but thats just a wee bit too huge of a job for this round.



and lhs guard wiring tied up, still waiting for ballasts so i can wire them up. gotta move onto rhs guard next. oh, and i found an old commodore bonnet cable that was more than long enough to reach in the new position, so bonnet now works again.

[hakhawk]

**ollycarbs**

615mm from the top face of the strut top(where it touches the strut tower) to the bottom of the hole that the ball joint goes into.



and some more work. got the battery terminal in, got the kill switch half hooked up, got the power wires from fusebox hooked to battery terminal.



battery terminal in engine bay, this will have one wire goto starter, then wire from starter to alternator



and the old grommet hole, one 5mm round rust hole beside it, and a bit of surface rust. not bad for 30 years worth of crap buildup!

[ollycarbs]

**ollycarbs**

615mm from the top face of the strut top(where it touches the strut tower) to the bottom of the hole that the ball joint goes into.

Great, i will compare this evening, perhaps i am not so short as i think.
Thank you!

Still a great job you are doing on your bimmer!

[hakhawk]

cheers, i took around 4 inches off the strut tubes from memory. i have pics of mine next to stock ones if you want.

[hakhawk]

ok, did some more work today, got the battery cable hooked to the kill switch, went to test it and killswitch has shat itself. gotta get a new one tomorrow. welded up the hole the old grommet left. its rough, but ill clean it up best i can and seal it good!!



then when the killswitch packed it in, i decided to move onto the pedalbox. it still needs grinding back and the clutch master cylinder hole sorted, but its nice and solid now.







and heres what i have to work with, yay for RHD bmws!!!!(note sarcasm)







and where my feet will be. clutch pedal rubs the steering column at the moment. might try and bend it a bit to clear, just have to watch the balance bar on the brake pedal.

[brat]

very good guy his car is getting amazing!

[ollycarbs]

Great, i will compare this evening, perhaps i am not so short as i think.
Thank you!

Still a great job you are doing on your bimmer!

thanks, i measure mine yesterday, it does 610mm, i am glad to finally not have shorten the strut sleeves!
i am currently working on the Volvo 4 pots caliper conversion, some news on my thread soon!

you work really hard! that's great! Thanks

[eskimopunk]

Good stuff man. Nice to see vic plates

What are the laws over there to do with lowering and such?

[hakhawk]

supposed to retain 2/3 of the original suspension travel and no point of the car to be lower than 100mm from the ground. i dont pass either of those :p most of the laws regarding mods are fair bs, but hey, gotta make their money somehow dont they!

[PRO-STAR]

looking good ....i to like the carbs

can i hear pleaseeeee

[hakhawk]

first run on megajolt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzjhWR_KOac

and a driving vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAi0xDPDM-M

will have to get some new videos eventually

[hakhawk]

ok, so today i started welding my camber/toe adjusters onto my spare subframe after i pulled all the old swaybar and control arms off and cleaned most of the gunk off it.

ps. i still suck at welding, so im gonna get dad to finish it off.



and dad bought home some fuses and a new killswitch, so i threw them in before for a quick test of what wirings done. its good to see a populated fusebox!!(need to find other clear cover) top 4 fuses on the left are spares, rest are needed.

[hakhawk]

got my plugs today for the firewall, so if i can be bothered, i'll cut some holes and start wiring them up this week after work. still waiting for my slim HID ballasts, so i can finish up the headlight wiring.

[hakhawk]

ballasts turned up yesterday, got around to mounting them today, and got drivers side wiring all done. just have to get some short hid extensions, the new ballasts have a black box on the hid lead, which i want to mount so its not flopping around.

[hakhawk]

so i cut the holes for the plugs, ignore the screws, theyre only there for the pics. will get some allen head screws for them, all nice and shiney. might start working out what pins i want for what wires tomorrow.

coilpack socket next to steering column



wire run will be nice and short when i go coil on plug!!



and passenger side, for sensors and anything else that goes into the engine bay.



and from inside, the flange is supposed to be on the outside, but i went inside, so taking the plug off the firewall is easier(read: for painting the engine bay in the future ) the wires from the wideband meter will get put on the plug too. might even move the module inside and extend the wideband sensor wires.