Dunno, the valves that I've always used have either had a double nut arrangement on the back or the poke through ones with the nut on the front usually has a slot to put a flat head screwdriver in. Does it have a rubber seal on the back, perhaps once it tightens enough the friction of the rubber will prevent it spinning?
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Iv had some with the screw drive notch before, Just hold the valve in your other hand. Can get them tight enough that way.
In regards to bolts, is the centre free of the lip and barrel? If so I'd still be torquing upSarcasm is easily calculated on vortex dude. Take 4 parts GLI lip and divide by BBS RS. If you are left with a remainder, subtract it from omgmoarlow. Profit.
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Did it last night, the stem stays put once you get the nut half tight. Only thing is I'm not sure if it's centered in the hole, looks a tad skewed, gonna back it off a bit and re-do it tonight.
The wheels are completely welded together, I just did the nuts good and tight and tried to keep them somewhat similar. Pretty sure their only purpose is decoration.
Here's how they're looking, shame these are going on the back, I'd love to have this much dish on the front.
Need to respray that hub dust cap, probably do it wrinkle black to hide it's poor condition lol
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Originally posted by anth View Postanyone used house-hold products to soak nuts/bolts, like vinegar and/or baking soda?
Lets just say the bbs bolts don't like it... a lot of the coating came off. Modena bolts ok though as I believe they are just raw finish. Some of the nuts went a bit rusty after though so gave them a good soak in wd40 before reinstall
Originally posted by SebastienPeek View PostWade, talk to Stu, isn't he a dealer for Adaptec over here?Sarcasm is easily calculated on vortex dude. Take 4 parts GLI lip and divide by BBS RS. If you are left with a remainder, subtract it from omgmoarlow. Profit.
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