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Question about re-drilling: 5x114.3 to 5x120

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  • Question about re-drilling: 5x114.3 to 5x120

    So the wheels that I am purchasing ended up being out of stock; the color I wanted was only available in a 5x114.3 fitment and not in the 5x120 that I need. Anyways, the rep I spoke with offered to re-drill them while I am not a a wheel expert, I feel that I am somewhat knowledgeable and had some questions.

    I asked if they fill the old holes and re-drill. He said they do. Then I asked if the wheel would have to be repainted in order to cover up the filled in holes. He said, the outside holes (the ones you see) wouldn't be affected at all. He said that the mounting pad holes are what will be filled/re-drilled.

    This doesn't make sense to me....there is no way that 5x114.3 holes (starting at the face of the wheel) would line up properly with 5x120 holes on the mounting pad am I right? It sounded super shady so I just ended up going with a different finish but correct me if I am wrong but re-drilling would surely be visible from the face of the wheel right?

  • #2
    Knowing what wheels you're talking about would really help. It depends on the design.

    Comment


    • #3
      There's usually some space within the original exterior 'holes' on either side of the bolt hole to fill and shift so you don't have to redrill the exterior holes

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      • #4
        Here is an example of what a good quality insert job looks like.
        Borbet A(originally 5x112) machined and inserted to 5x120.
        The center bore was also machined.





        OZ, MSW, ABT, Carlsson, etc 10 point bolt tools info

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        • #5
          if the patterns are less than 10mm apart, its usually something that can be solved with steel inserts as shown above.

          in this, there is no welding or filling of anything. the holes are opened up on a mill to accept the steel insert as it has a thickness and thus the hole being machined is larger than the original hole on the wheel, and in doing so they can recenter the hole without seeing anything ovaled out



          this is partly why I never understood the common use of wobble bolts or adapters for small pattern changes. this is easier, cheaper, and safer
          Last edited by 1badg35; 03-08-2016, 12:53 PM.
          sigpic
          1990 Nissan fairlady Z32 - long term build
          1982 euro porsche 930 turbo

          "A less- assuming enthusiast probably wouldnt even think that this Z ran because of how naked the engine compartment was. The motor looks as if it just floats there, with nothing else in sight." Super Street 9/2012

          http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19185

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          • #6
            I imagine the inserts are somewhat tapered to prevent them from being pulled all the way through the inside?

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            • #7
              The inser is considerably larger than the hole in the wheel. It is pressed in.

              Vince, wobble bolts are understandable. I concur on the adapters though.


              OZ, MSW, ABT, Carlsson, etc 10 point bolt tools info

              Comment


              • #8
                its pressed in and is knurled on the back of some inserts, ribbed on the back side of others. to keep from spinning or falling out.
                sigpic
                1990 Nissan fairlady Z32 - long term build
                1982 euro porsche 930 turbo

                "A less- assuming enthusiast probably wouldnt even think that this Z ran because of how naked the engine compartment was. The motor looks as if it just floats there, with nothing else in sight." Super Street 9/2012

                http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19185

                Comment

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