Rebuilding SSR Professors

[babowc]

I put mine on a lathe. Didn't cost me anything but I'm guessing around 30$ per wheel. Any machine shop can do it.

Or get out a grinder

How big of a lathe do you need to do a 18" wheel?

[240sx]

So my question is if you split the wheels and put the new lip on can you just seal it up rather than welding it back?

[Crankey]

so long as we are talking SSR Professors, anyone have a source for fresh screws ?

as far as the barrel / lip questions, why not look for a wider barrel / lip already welded and sell/trade what you have ? cutting them apart seems like it's best done by a machine shop to do a precise job avoiding cutting into the lip or barrel material. I know it can be done by hand but it's alot of cash to risk destroying.

[KarlSpackler]

So my question is if you split the wheels and put the new lip on can you just seal it up rather than welding it back?

My rule of thumb as I am no engineer, if it was welded from the factory, you should probably re-weld it

so long as we are talking SSR Professors, anyone have a source for fresh screws ?

as far as the barrel / lip questions, why not look for a wider barrel / lip already welded and sell/trade what you have ? cutting them apart seems like it's best done by a machine shop to do a precise job avoiding cutting into the lip or barrel material. I know it can be done by hand but it's alot of cash to risk destroying.

Screws can come from APR or others.
It is really hard to sell OEM barrel/lip combinations and if a machine shop can separate them they aren't worth talking to. It is a pretty simple process.

[Crankey]

I've talked to machine shops about working on wheels, I haven't found one that is willing to take the liability of the work, like to change PCD or open up a center bore....I haven't asked about cutting lips off though, but I don't need to go there.

I dropped one Professor off yesterday to fix some small bends and was told, unless the screws have obvious damage like galled threads then just re use them. the torque isn't huge, just 15-20 lbs. this was at Seattle Wheel Service and they have done good work for me in the past.

APR seems to be engine control stuff, you mean ARP hardware ? I don't see anything that matches the style of bolt head. I did see at McMaster-Carr, a high torque torx drive button head, thats as close as I've seen, but again I'm going with re using original unless I twist off a head...if I do I'll find some spares somewhere.