New Offset After Adding 2" to outer lip on 19x9.5 +34 ?

[wagonist]

Thanks guys, I'm glad I asked

11.5 with et-16 would have looked ridiculous on your w208, ridiculous as in bad, you would have needed to build new fender arches and I dont think that would have looked right on a benz. et9 is doable, but will still require a good amount of fender pulling.

[CLKFAN]

11.5 with et-16 would have looked ridiculous on your w208, ridiculous as in bad, you would have needed to build new fender arches and I dont think that would have looked right on a benz. et9 is doable, but will still require a good amount of fender pulling.

I'm already running 19x11.5 on my rears but my offset is unknown because they're Iforged, they don't tell you offsets. I'll be making back space measurements tomorrow on my current wheels to be sure.

My current rear wheel started off as a 3pc 19x10 with a 7.5" inner and a 2.5" outer and all I did was remove the 2.5" lip and add a 4" outer lip. My fenders are already worked on, rolled and semi flared by the roller.

I'm going to do a test mount tomorrow with the 19x9.5 et34. I know I'm going to have major space to work with but I want to make sure that adding 2" will be fine. I think I may even need spacers to get them flush with my 275/30/19 tires.

Any thoughts on my plans?

[wagonist]

find out the offset or at least the backspacing of your current wheels and we can work with that based on this picture:



based on what your telling me, the new setup should be sticking out 1" more then your current setup, thats assuming your currest is 11.5 with around +35mm offset.

1" is alot!

EDIT: never mind, I taught you said your current setup is 11.5 with et35, but I just saw you said you don't know your offset. To me, just knowing mercedes fender clearance and looking at the pic, it still probably is a 35mm offset tho, so your new wheels may still be sticking out 1" past your current ones..

[CLKFAN]

find out the offset or at least the backspacing of your current wheels and we can work with that based on this picture:



based on what your telling me, the new setup should be sticking out 1" more then your current setup, thats assuming your currest is 11.5 with around +35mm offset.

1" is alot!

EDIT: never mind, I taught you said your current setup is 11.5 with et35, but I just saw you said you don't know your offset. To me, just knowing mercedes fender clearance and looking at the pic, it still probably is a 35mm offset tho, so your new wheels may still be sticking out 1" past your current ones..

1" more...Really...you think so? Even though the new wheel is 1/2" narrower? Since we're dealing with center lines and such maybe you're right.

I guess I'll have to see how much space I have tomorrow when I test fit them. I still think I'll be able to add 2"...I hope so

I see that you're local to me, I'm in Burbank. The wheels are in Santa Fe Springs. Do you know of a place out there that would be willing to do the test fitting? The place I know is in Diamond Bar and they'll do whatever I ask but it's kind far.

[wagonist]

1/2" narrower? I'm confused now.

Once you mount the 9.5" tomorrow it will be real easy to see the fitment, just take a ruler count off 2" and stick it next to the rim lip, thats how much it will stick out.

Don't mount a tire on it, that will just make things confusing since offset is changing and tire tread will not be sitting in the same place once wheels is widened.

[CLKFAN]

1/2" narrower? I'm confused now.

Once you mount the 9.5" tomorrow it will be real easy to see the fitment, just take a ruler count off 2" and stick it next to the rim lip, thats how much it will stick out.

Don't mount a tire on it, that will just make things confusing since offset is changing and tire tread will not be sitting in the same place once wheels is widened.

Got it.

1/2" narrower is regarding the new 19x9.5 wheel starting point compared to the current wheels I have and where they started off at which was 19x10. Lots of numbers but I'm glad you know some stuff here. Thanks.

[CLKFAN]

So I measured my current rear wheel back spacing with a ruler across the plane and tape measure to T off and it's about 7" or maybe a tad more.

19x11.5 with a 7" back space I think is et15? I'm not certain with the math, please calculate for me, thanks.

And I did a test fit with the new 19x9.5 e34 wheels and I have about 1 3/4" space left to the fender arch not 2". I'm not going to do the widening because this guy doesn't have the piece he needs to do it so I'm going to wait for this VarrsToen company to get delivery of the new 19x10.5 et25 with a 4 1/2" lip. They get delivery by February latest. Then I'll just run an unknown sized spacer and I'm flush.

And I also test fit the same 19x9.5 e34 on the front but the inside lip hits the suspension. Looks like I'll need a 5mm spacer to fix that when the time comes.

Thoughts and comments are welcomed.

[wagonist]

11.5" rim has a true width of 12.5" divide that by 2 you get the 6.25" centerline, subtract the 7" backspacing and you got 0.75" offset 0.75" equates to 19mm. your offset is 19mm

[CLKFAN]

11.5" rim has a true width of 12.5" divide that by 2 you get the 6.25" centerline, subtract the 7" backspacing and you got 0.75" offset 0.75" equates to 19mm. your offset is 19mm

thanks for the info

[NELSON09]

Hahaaaaa, bookmarked this thread. I fond a machinest who widens one pice wheels and just o happen to have 2 spares SO, I have been mind f*cking myself and a few others with a very similar dilema. GL, sounds good...

[wagonist]

I have never seen the outer lips widened on a cast wheel, just the inner's.

If there is a way to widen the outers theres no way you could have polished lips since you'd see the weld no matter what. PC'd lips would work tho

[NELSON09]

I have never seen the outer lips widened on a cast wheel, just the inner's.

If there is a way to widen the outers theres no way you could have polished lips since you'd see the weld no matter what. PC'd lips would work tho

Right, taken from his webpage...

..."Widening is accomplished by removing normally a 1-2 inch wide piece of parent wheel, including bead seat and flange that holds the tire on, and replacing with another rim section that is longer to make it wider. The new piece comes from an outer shell that 2 piece wheels are made from. The 2 pieces are turned to interlock to maintain alignment during welding. The 2 pieces are then welded together on our automatic rotary welding machine. Final step is to skim cut in lathe the new bead seat diameter, and slim cut mounting surface on back of center. These steps insure a perfect true running wheel. Cost $200.00-$300.00 depending on size.
Many of our modified wheels run regularly at high speed, such as Bonneville Salt Flats, at 200-400+ MPH with confidence.
Please note: We do not do 6- or 8-lug heavy-duty wheels, nor steel wheels.
For more specific information call Eric at Vaughn Machine (626) 358-6413..."


So, I'm not going after more lip, although, if he can pull it off it'd nice, but my understanding is that the backspacing will be affected by however much we add to the wheel. Stll needto run the same spacer size. Just need to basically measure from the inner of tewheel when it's mounted - back to see how much clearence we have to work with.

[CLKFAN]

I have never seen the outer lips widened on a cast wheel, just the inner's.

If there is a way to widen the outers theres no way you could have polished lips since you'd see the weld no matter what. PC'd lips would work tho

it can be done, welds get grinned away and polished or chromed

here are some pics and a link to the source of the upper lip on a step lip wheel from a gt40. go through the thread there are plenty of pics and information

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-chassis-brakes-tires-wheels/24859-wheel-widening.html

[180roman]

Right, taken from his webpage...

..."Widening is accomplished by removing normally a 1-2 inch wide piece of parent wheel, including bead seat and flange that holds the tire on, and replacing with another rim section that is longer to make it wider. The new piece comes from an outer shell that 2 piece wheels are made from. The 2 pieces are turned to interlock to maintain alignment during welding. The 2 pieces are then welded together on our automatic rotary welding machine. Final step is to skim cut in lathe the new bead seat diameter, and slim cut mounting surface on back of center. These steps insure a perfect true running wheel. Cost $200.00-$300.00 depending on size.
Many of our modified wheels run regularly at high speed, such as Bonneville Salt Flats, at 200-400+ MPH with confidence.
Please note: We do not do 6- or 8-lug heavy-duty wheels, nor steel wheels.
For more specific information call Eric at Vaughn Machine (626) 358-6413..."


So, I'm not going after more lip, although, if he can pull it off it'd nice, but my understanding is that the backspacing will be affected by however much we add to the wheel. Stll needto run the same spacer size. Just need to basically measure from the inner of tewheel when it's mounted - back to see how much clearence we have to work with.

The way these guys ^^^ widen the wheels is the correct way to do it, coz you only have 1 weld on the wheels

i've seen wheels widened by adding a band like this


but honestly that wheel would be illegal to run in Aus, as we have a rule that does not allow more then 1 cross sectional weld to widen wheels