Fender Rolling and Pulling

[motocaddy]

Your experience on so many platforms is awesome! Thanks for all the advice.

My issue is with the rear of my e36. I've removed the sealer, rolled the lip flat and achieved a mild pull. Now I need to get a more aggressive pull, but the problem is my roller (homemade) won't work now that I've switched to studs.

Do you think I can get some additional pull with a slide hammer or hammer/dolly?

[Tonys18t]

excellent work, man. i had a quick question though. do you have any experience with the 09+ honda fits? if so, any pointers? i'm way down in florida, otherwise i'd go to you for my fender rolling/pulling services lol.

The fenders are VERY soft on the fit, so roll them with extreme care, its easy to overdo it and buckle the panel, seen it done a few times.
Depending on you fitment, the bumper tabs may be an issue. you may have to remove the tabs and re position them.

ur good i love your 30!

Thanks dude.

Sorry if you covered the LS430 already, but I am about to give it a go myself.

I have been reading to roll the fronts but it is not even needed most of the time...but if you do, to cut off the fender liner brackets, otherwise you may dimple the fenders?

And for the rear, everyone is saying to shave...some mention a belt sander as a good way to go? Just run a low grit to eat up the metal, and then a fine grit to smooth it out?

Never roll the LS Lexus, front or rear. its not the tabs that cause the dimples, its the holes that are left once you remove the trim strip thats screwed into the fender lips.
Shave them with anything you are comfortable using. Be careful not to heat the metal too much with the sander, you'll burn the paint. Just take it slow and you'll be fine

[C8V6C]

Sorry if you covered the LS430 already, but I am about to give it a go myself.

I have been reading to roll the fronts but it is not even needed most of the time...but if you do, to cut off the fender liner brackets, otherwise you may dimple the fenders?

And for the rear, everyone is saying to shave...some mention a belt sander as a good way to go? Just run a low grit to eat up the metal, and then a fine grit to smooth it out?

[Rob&co]

ur good i love your 30!

[Nickocosmic]

excellent work, man. i had a quick question though. do you have any experience with the 09+ honda fits? if so, any pointers? i'm way down in florida, otherwise i'd go to you for my fender rolling/pulling services lol.

[Tonys18t]

Thanks dude

[project92raddoslc]

You do some excellent work!

[Tonys18t]

milling the pad and camber can really help.

[71camaro]

Those are such cool cars! ... but a pain to work on, lol.

The biggest issues on the rear are that the whole car is made of aluminum, and the rear has no fender lip. It is possible to push out the rear very slightly, but dont go past a few mil.
First test fit the wheels and see exactly where your rub will be, most Audis tend to rub near the rear ( 2 o'clock position ) on the back fender/quarter. you will have to pull the whole arc of the fender to maintain the line, even if the top of the fender is claer of rubbing, work very slowly and keep test fitting the wheels to see if you are clear ( it takes a lot of time but its better to not over pull ).
Use a lot of heat and apply even pressure to the panel as you roll ( dont try to roll a small section at a time ). Auto grade aluminum is very prone to kink and crack, so treat it very carefully as you work.

Every little bit will help. I may have to mill the wheel and the rotor a couple mm as well. Trying to somehow make 12 et20 work. The pics above were 9.5 et10, so I'm looking at 22mm extra poke, but also trying to tuck the quarter into the gap at the bead on the wheels. Let's say that'll take care of 10mm, then a pull takes care of 3-5, camber and perhaps milling the rotors/backpad take care of the rest.

[71camaro]

Those are such cool cars! ... but a pain to work on, lol.

The biggest issues on the rear are that the whole car is made of aluminum, and the rear has no fender lip. It is possible to push out the rear very slightly, but dont go past a few mil.
First test fit the wheels and see exactly where your rub will be, most Audis tend to rub near the rear ( 2 o'clock position ) on the back fender/quarter. you will have to pull the whole arc of the fender to maintain the line, even if the top of the fender is claer of rubbing, work very slowly and keep test fitting the wheels to see if you are clear ( it takes a lot of time but its better to not over pull ).
Use a lot of heat and apply even pressure to the panel as you roll ( dont try to roll a small section at a time ). Auto grade aluminum is very prone to kink and crack, so treat it very carefully as you work.

Every little bit will help. I may have to mill the wheel and the rotor a couple mm as well. Trying to somehow make 12 et20 work. The pics above were 9.5 et10, so I'm looking at 22mm extra poke, but also trying to tuck the quarter into the gap at the bead on the wheels. Let's say that'll take care of 10mm, then a pull takes care of 3-5, camber and perhaps milling the rotors/backpad take care of the rest.

[richmeyer]

Thanks for the help guys. I know its TONS of poke but I friggin love the wheels. Might just have to pull the Cayenne brakes and go back to stock. That would pull the wheels in 10mm. Decisions, decisions.

Thanks again!

[Tonys18t]

Hey man, I've rolled a few cars with an Eastwood roller, turned out pretty well, but I've got a project I am working on now and need a few tips. The car is a D2 S8, so aluminum panels, and I need to pull the rears a hair to fit the wheels I'm going to run. I want to maintain the stock roll on the fenders/quarters though. Any advice on how to get just a tad more out room out of the rears without making the lines look too modified? I'd like to avoid respraying or doing much in the way of bodywork with a welder/mud.

This kind of car/this roll that I'm attempting to keep:

Those are such cool cars! ... but a pain to work on, lol.

The biggest issues on the rear are that the whole car is made of aluminum, and the rear has no fender lip. It is possible to push out the rear very slightly, but dont go past a few mil.
First test fit the wheels and see exactly where your rub will be, most Audis tend to rub near the rear ( 2 o'clock position ) on the back fender/quarter. you will have to pull the whole arc of the fender to maintain the line, even if the top of the fender is claer of rubbing, work very slowly and keep test fitting the wheels to see if you are clear ( it takes a lot of time but its better to not over pull ).
Use a lot of heat and apply even pressure to the panel as you roll ( dont try to roll a small section at a time ). Auto grade aluminum is very prone to kink and crack, so treat it very carefully as you work.

Let me start by saying I'm a total newb to the fitment scene. The BBK I installed forced me to use a 10mm spacer up front, pushing an already aggressive fitment, even further out. Would it be even possible to pull the fenders enough to make this work?

It looks possible, but look into adding some camber as mentioned before. The fronts can be pulled pretty good, the rears not so much. ( no lip on the rears )

[Dani]

Ill say with som more camber and slight pull you'll be fine. There is 0 camber going on now.

[Strawhat]

It will certainly be difficult. Obviously you are poking like crazy, and I highly doubt you could pull it entirely, but a pull would definitely help the look out. Although pulling so aggressively will put those front fenders at risk.
I'd almost say bodywork, but that's so costly.

[richmeyer]

Let me start by saying I'm a total newb to the fitment scene. The BBK I installed forced me to use a 10mm spacer up front, pushing an already aggressive fitment, even further out. Would it be even possible to pull the fenders enough to make this work?