Fender Rolling and Pulling

[71camaro]

Hey man, I've rolled a few cars with an Eastwood roller, turned out pretty well, but I've got a project I am working on now and need a few tips. The car is a D2 S8, so aluminum panels, and I need to pull the rears a hair to fit the wheels I'm going to run. I want to maintain the stock roll on the fenders/quarters though. Any advice on how to get just a tad more out room out of the rears without making the lines look too modified? I'd like to avoid respraying or doing much in the way of bodywork with a welder/mud.

This kind of car/this roll that I'm attempting to keep:

[Xtra Big Kahuna]

Hmmm. I guess it sounds like I will be getting the Eastwood one then.

[Tonys18t]

The Powered by Max is for sure good for lowered cars, sometimes the Eastwood is just too tall for the job if the car is slammed.

The problem i have with the Max is that the design is not the best, Its very difficult ( impossible in a lot of cases ) to use all the bolt holes to attach the roller to the hub, the bottom most hole is a double thick affair, which is usually too thick to fit and then still have enough thread left on the stud to screw a nut onto.
The attaching holes on the sides are also not clear in a lot of cases.
Its good to have in emergencies, but not as a primary roller.
The Eastwood is a lot more user friendly, easy to set up and aside from a couple of very minor issues always works well.

[Xtra Big Kahuna]

I saw that you have said that you prefer the Eastwood roller over just about all of them but I was wondering what you like about it? I was looking at a Powered by Max one because it is nice for low cars but I was just trying to figure out what is so great about te Eastwood one. Is the wheel better or something? Easier to use?

[Tonys18t]

Busy like crazy ae usual, shows and meets are in full effect and everyone is getting that project on the street finally

here's a few recent jobs.

just another 8th Gen Civic on 18x10.5s, nice fitment



Low and Slow guys at it again. Mark's 350z with extreme fiment. Static !




Had a lot of cars running Vossens lately, 2011 Accord coupe, nice fitment, took a while to get done but worked out great, fenders tailored to fit 10s all around




Same setup on Altima coupe, love this fitment, again took some time to fine tune the fenders for a perfect fit




Random R32,



Did this 850 just before Bimmerfest, rare car anyway, but a stanced one!...



family pic with the e30, lol

[Tonys18t]

ok, so when i first rolled my guards, i got a little carried away on the rhs, and i want to unflare it.

i want to make this guard



look more like this guard




is it doable? what would be involved. i have a few ideas in my head, but id rather some advice before just smashing into it.

using a hammer and dolly to carefully reshape the guard would probably be your best bet.

[

[tlg0624]

I need someone that is gifted with a fender roller to take care of my e36m! I'm in Miami, FL. Can anyone recommend someone?

[hakhawk]

ok, so when i first rolled my guards, i got a little carried away on the rhs, and i want to unflare it.

i want to make this guard



look more like this guard




is it doable? what would be involved. i have a few ideas in my head, but id rather some advice before just smashing into it.

[Tonys18t]

So why is it a bad idea to cut the inner lip out instead of rolling it? Only reason I could see would be structural. Especially on older cars with a one piece fender. On my volvo I cut them, and they start to rust because I didn't weld them together again, but on my Mercedes the whole fender is one piece of metal.

On the front it is a structural thing in most cases. most newer cars have a single skinned fender, just one layer of stamped metal. The L shaped curve of the lip adds a good deal of extra rigidity to the whole fender.

The rear is double skinned, so thats a different story.

I see, and ya sounds like my fender. So my best bet is to use a heat gun and rubber mallet to do it by hand?

heat gun, rubber mallet, body hammer and dolly, you will also need to cut some small relief slots in the area where the beltline of the car runs into the fender. SCs fronts are
not easy to get right, work very slowly and keep checking your work as you go.

[Packie]

Its a tricky car to work with for sure. the screwed in fender strip and huge beltline fender curve make it a pain. A lot depends on how much extra space you need.

99% of the SCs i see where people have tried to roll them have fked up front fenders. You have to work that fender by hand, the roller will kill it.

I see, and ya sounds like my fender. So my best bet is to use a heat gun and rubber mallet to do it by hand?

[Nicolaus Pro]

So why is it a bad idea to cut the inner lip out instead of rolling it? Only reason I could see would be structural. Especially on older cars with a one piece fender. On my volvo I cut them, and they start to rust because I didn't weld them together again, but on my Mercedes the whole fender is one piece of metal.

[Tonys18t]

Its a tricky car to work with for sure. the screwed in fender strip and huge beltline fender curve make it a pain. A lot depends on how much extra space you need.

99% of the SCs i see where people have tried to roll them have fked up front fenders. You have to work that fender by hand, the roller will kill it.

[Packie]

Any tips on doing the front fenders of a Lexus SC300 or SC400?

Im planning on getting another pair of fronts because mines are fked up.

[Tonys18t]

I have a couple of Eastwoods, a JT Roller, a PBM and some no name Eastwood knock off i bought in Europe.
PBM is good for lowered cars that the Eastwood has trouble with, but the Eastwood is still the best quality.

[XThirtySeven]

Hey Tony, what fender rollers do you own and which do you suggest buying? I have the eastwood but its done its share of cars and is beat to hell, even had to have the head welded back on. Should i buy another eastwood or get a shorter one since most cars i do are lowered.

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