Fender Rolling and Pulling

[C8V6C]

Suspensions gotta be stiffer than a virgin at a strip club...half inch of suspension travel looks like it would toast the quarter/rear lips

[Tonys18t]

Well I am still rubbing. Im not having much luck getting the fenders to roll/pull out enough.

did you clean out the seam sealer inside the fenderlip first before rolling it? you MUST do that. looks like there is plenty more to be pulled there

Some serious work But is this drivabe without the wheels banging on the fenders?

its a firm ride for sure. lol

[XThirtySeven]

Buddy of mine wants me to pull the fenders on his 1993 RX7. Ive rolled a Lot of cars roughly 50 but I have never been comfortable pulling. Any advice?

[Tonys18t]

its a tricky car to get right because the quarter panels are fairly soft and wave easily. go very slow and carefully and you'll do fine. .

[Flaks]

There are several ways to do it, a lot depends on the type of car and how wide you need to go.

Well I have an s13 and im trying to fit a 16x10 in the rear with 205/45 tires and I only need a little bit to pull so would I just angle the fender roller out more in order to this?

[mad-ass]

Just chiming in here about the Parts Shop Max Fender roller,

I've had PSM fender roller V2 since 2008? or so, been a long while so I lost track of how long I've actually owned it.

There is a big problem with the double flange and not being able to bolt it down which is crucial part of any major fender job[only if you are using the PSM design roller actually], because the stress of pulling/flairing the fender goes straight to that mounting spot and can mess up a job very easily if not bolted down.

I've learned to cope with the durn thing and have done roughly 40~50 fender jobs with it. The way I get around it is to have my own cheap open end lug nuts for m12x1.5 or 1.25, or what ever else that I do not mind ruining the acorn/taper part of the lug nut and not use the taper adapter and bolt it down as much as I can so the arm of the roller does not move[and also I use my own lug nuts on most cars as most have after market lug nuts that I do not want to ruin]. I've done this so many times that the fender roller itself actually has warn a groove in it so I am able to put the lug nut on securely now.

I actually have had the idea of completely cutting the plate of the arm flange off and just welding it on to the hub mount so I can always have a secure mounting point with out having to worry about mounting it to the hub.

Just my $0.02 for PSM roller, I've only encountered 3 cars where I would have to flip the arm around to normal orientation like eastwood roller would normally be positioned, other wise, I actually do enjoy not having to drop the suspension setup just to be able to fit my fender roller in place for a fender job.

here are some of my fender jobs from some time ago using the PSM roller....

S13 Coupe on 18x10+18


My S13 Coupe on 17x9+0


AP1 S2000 on 18x10 +20?



My S14 on 17x9+2effective/17x10+18


It is a good fender roller for it's price IMO, but doing a fender pull and roll with it is kind of "sketch" at times. It really tests the fender roller's strength in design. I had to stack some spacers before to get more leverage in order to finish up some major fender pulls. Not sure if that's the same case with eastwood roller as I've only used the eastwood tool once.

[mad-ass]

Buddy of mine wants me to pull the fenders on his 1993 RX7. Ive rolled a Lot of cars roughly 50 but I have never been comfortable pulling. Any advice?

I've done 3 FD3S fender pulls on rear so far, they are deff. not the easiest thing to do.

if you are going for just a pull[1/4" pull or so], set the roller flat against the rolled surface with out any angle on it and crank down on the handle. It's almost like last stage of finishing the normal fender roll job with roller vertical angle to the ground, except you are now just applying more pressure.

From what I remember, FD3S's rear fenders require two different roller height positioning as their rear fender isn't a perfect radius. Like center will require less height on the roller head then the FWD/AFT of about 8" of center of the rear fender. I just remember using a lot of heatgun and brute force on them.

Good luck!

[Tonys18t]

thanks for the input man, yeah the PBM roller is not the easiest to work with, its just not the best design. its smaller size helps in some cases but mounting the thing up almost always is an issue.

On the s13 you can pull the quarter quite a bit without putting a lip on the fender line. be very careful not to angle the roller too much, you'll buckle the quarter before you know it. just pull it straight out gently. 16x10 with 205s will work as long as the offset isnt crazy low.

[arcelio13]

Hey Tony,

Can you send me the pics when you rolled my GTI fenders a couple weeks ago?

[Tonys18t]

shoot me an email man, and i'll get them out to you

Tonys18t@aol.com

[Tonys18t]

Been too long since i posted a few pics, just been mad busy as usual, but here are a few recent jobs. finally moved into my new ACed garage too,.


love the new Audi A5! love the fitment on this one, roll and pull




Cool XB on Rotiforms, crazy good fitment, roll and pull.



Masarati well stanced on coilovers, roll and pull,




Porsche 996 on 20 inch Fuch reps, roll and pull, pretty sweet





M5 on CCWs, static, pulled




Random Mk5 on great looking Privat rims, rolled and pulled



just another Beemer on 20s, static. pulled and shaved.




more to come... when i get a moment.

[244Brick]

Last pik

[Byron]

Hey Tony, could you take a picture from inside the wheel well on the next car that you shave the lip off of? I know you say you should seal it after, but even with sealing won't it be weaker? I need to shave my e39's fenders but I don't want it to be any weaker or to get any water inside and start rusting.

[amichaels]

^same. I've got an e39 and i'm torn between shaving or just rolling

[bigrig]

any pictures of a porsche 993 (1995-1998 911) rolled fenders?