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My S13 240 : Ls swap, Corvette trans,ITB's, Widebody, Stupid wide wheels,
Its going to be the stroy of my life with this build. Just dont quote have the income to spend 1k every week when i need new parts lol
That corvette was nearly the death of my hands from all the body work we did. Sat up for 40 years before it was brought to my dad and i for bodywork and paint. Lets just say it needed ALOT of work. Nearly 2 years of working after hours from our days jobs to get it done.
I hear you on the money bit. People keep asking me why my truck isn't done, its the lack of time and $$ to spend on it!
Well ended up having some time today to get some work done, had a few alignment cancellations so i was able to head home early and get some shit done.
Welded up the indention i cut into front subframe, still need to work on my welding once there is heat in the metal. I, not compensating in my speed for it so I'm ether too fast or too slow. So I'm either almost burning through or not quite getting enough penetration. IMG_1399 by lawrx, on Flickr
I had gotten home with some daylight left so i took some shots with actual sunlight on the car with where the motors final resting place is in respect to the engine bay. IMG_1401 by lawrx, on Flickr
Picked up a used truck starter to use for mock up to check oil line clearances and header room as well. Header wise i should have plenty of room to make what i want. Regarding dry sump oil lines, I'm not able to run the center port as it will hit the motor mount/ subframe. When i first put the starter on i wasn't thinking i could run the rear most port. But once i put the 90* fitting on i think i can just manage to get it to run and be out of the way by massaging the motor and starter a bit. By massaging i mean grinding on the motor and a hammer on the starter for a slight indentation haha Also dont worry about the rubber line, i will be using braided stainless line on the actual install.
Once the subframe was welded up, i pulled the motor out and bolted the subframe up to start measuring and mock up for the new mounts for the steering rack. I ended up having to notch the passenger side mount to go around the nipple for where there hardline connects to the rack IMG_1420 by lawrx, on Flickr
Been doing a little thinking lately where i could put a pair of auxillary coolers. Used my awesome paint skills to depict my idea thus far. Ive always been a big fan of the ferrari f40, and ive been wanting to incorpate a few design features from it into the 240. A while back i decided i wanted to do the triple exhuast tip look from it. I also thought of today doing a naca duct on the quarter panel to feed air to a pair of coolers mounted vertical within the rear body below the tailights.
A plus side to this is bringing more air behind the car to lessen the low pressure area that causes drag on cars. So not only will i be drawing air from a fairly high pressure area, i will be disposing of it in the most effective area against the fight for less drag for more efficiency.
The red squares are the coolers, the three black circles exhaust tips, the blue square rear diffuser, and the yellow and orange depicts various tempertures of the air exting the various parts
have you looked at mini starters to solve your clearance issue with the oil line?
Huh, wasn't aware they existed, care to elaborate? I could pretty confidently make this one work, but if here is a smaller option that will still turn the motor over fine and fit my needs odd consider it as well.
Is this a stock LS7 pan? how does the factory solve the problem of starter interfering with external oil lines? more often than not it's best to follow how they did it, no need to reinvent the wheel.
Is this a stock LS7 pan? how does the factory solve the problem of starter interfering with external oil lines? more often than not it's best to follow how they did it, no need to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks for the link, and this is actually a ARE dyr sump pan, not a factory ls7. Im not sure how it is from the factory. Never seen any pictures of how is run or seen a setup in person.
do some HW and find out. GM does weird things like that sometimes. It may be routed internally within the pan (hardlines), my GTO front wet sump was like that.
do some HW and find out. GM does weird things like that sometimes. It may be routed internally within the pan (hardlines), my GTO front wet sump was like that.
The stock ls7 oil pan lines exit out the center of the pan, in fornt of the starter. The actual starter im using for mock up is one of my neighbors fbody camaro. He said truck starters are smaller, so sometime soon im going crawl under my truck and measure it. I really only need like a 14-1/2" less length and it will work just fine.
Over the last few days i was able to get the everything bolted up, throw the stock suspension back on, and lower it down under it owns weight. The conclusion i have come to is this motor sits FUCKING LOW. The center of the heads sit even with my knee caps (I'm 6'1 for reference) needless to say its way down there.
Also swung by my dads to pick up and borrow some tools vs just buying my own right now. saving money is good, who cares if your using tools that aren't your own. Biggest thing i picked up tho was his tubing bender. Saved me a few hundred bucks from buying one, and i dont have to wait for one to get shipped in either. Week or so ago i ordered a tubing roller. How this differs from a bender is the roller will give the tubing a nice radius bend, where as the bender gives short specific angle bends. Roller will come in hand for various pieces i.e. strut tower bar, some smaller wall roll cage tie in points maybe etc. Also picked up from dad a few angle finders and a tool to hold in place the tubing while you tack in place. Pretty usefull little tool
I also have multiple parts on order currently, I'm quite excited. Heres a run down of what all is on order.
- Front and rear fenders
-Front and rear flares
-Roll cage tubing
-Bucket seat
-Hole saw bits to cut roll cage
Actual work itself on the car is going to slow over the next month or so as i have two large side jobs ill be under taking. So ill be tide up with those for a bit. They also are paying quite well so i should also in the mean time be able to get a few more parts ordered as well, namely rear inner and outer barrels to start mock up of the wheels.
Cant really measure for the fronts yet as i need the new knuckles, lca's and coilovers as well. So front mock is still a ways out. Hopefully my friend buys my Varis parts in the next 2 weeks as promised and ill be able to get the knuckles and such just mentioned on the way.
Busy times ahead. My bank account is really feeling it :/
What changes did you make to the length of the torque tube to accommodate the change in chassis length between S13 and C5?
Absolutely nothing. If i wasnt planning on cutting the firewall to allow the motor to sit farther back it would have had to been extended or the rear diff would have been a few inches too far forward. could have prolly worked but the angle of the axles would have been near that limit of comfortable travel.
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