VIP - its so hot right now, UCF21 build

[TMA-1]

I figured thats what I'd have to do. This is the first set of coils I've had where the height is separate from preload, all the other VW coils I've owned thats how you set the height so I'm not too worried. These coils and my FK's can't be that far different.

Down the road I may score some shorter springs to get the preload back correctly if setting the car completely back on the ground with all the weight doesn't solve it.

[Anonymoose]

You can droop the spring with the upper collars to get lower but be mindful of the shock travel you have left. I asked BC about this when mine were delivered and they didn't really believe me that the rear drop wouldn't be proportional to the front, but yeah they are long but so is the distance between the hub and strut tower.

[Thom]

Take it off stands and see where it sits. But they seem overly long haha.

[TMA-1]

seems to me you are doing something wrong sir. i have the BC BR extreme drop with 16/12 springs in it. i could lay frame if i wanted to easily with these coils and then some.

I don't see how I could be doing anything wrong, they're spun down as far as they can go. Besides you really can't compare with mine, I have the regular BR vs your extreme drop version.

Although I am curious to see how yours will ride compared to mine, 14/10 vs 16/12 spring rate was a long battle in my mind of what to choose, ultimately went with 14/10.

Also you've been PM'ed!

[aeok18109]

seems to me you are doing something wrong sir. i have the BC BR extreme drop with 16/12 springs in it. i could lay frame if i wanted to easily with these coils and then some.

[TMA-1]

Took one off and left the collar where it was and unscrewed the lower shock mount, definitely bottomed out.



So now they either sent me the wrong damper or like someone mentioned in another thread it could just be the jackstand up front taking most of the weight off the back. Not sure if I believe that but will def find out tomorrow.

[2GRX7]

OK, then the next thing you've got to do is remove the damper inset leaving the lower collar in place (to use as a depth marker). Place the insert next to the damper housing to see if there's still some length to turn down the insert (sometimes crap gets between the treads).

If it doesn't, that usually means they substituted the insert with one that "comes close" to your application (cause they're not vehicle matched). You're gonna have to send it back and get a proper insert.

Looking at that pic you have, it seems like your issue.

[Thom]

Doesnt seem right...... They seem long as feck....

[TMA-1]

And, yeah, your coilovers in that pic are set at the HIGHEST position!!! You've got, at least, 4inches of drop in front of you.

Thats what I'm saying, I've threaded the shock body CLOCKWISE into the lower shock mount as far as it can go. The picture is right after I did this, when I first started the coilover was actually longer. If I were raising the car/lengthening the coilover technically I would never get to a stopping point it would just keep going until they separated and became two pieces.

I'm tempted tomorrow after work to yank one coilover off and mess with it to make sure.

[2GRX7]

He meant, "rear coilover"....

Usually, when you set up coilovers, you go with a higher rate spring in the rear-14kg in your example, with 10kg in the front. This creates a car with over-steer tendencies (back-end gets loose before front end). It also provides a more forgiving ride as the front suspension is the brunt of what we feel when driving along. Then again, you could have a sh't-ton of weight over the front axles to deal with, so the spring will keep you from bottoming....

And, yeah, your coilovers in that pic are set at the HIGHEST position!!! You've got, at least, 4inches of drop in front of you.

1st, loosen that lower gold collar (last one on bottom) and crank down the threaded damper body until it stops in the damper housing, then turn up the springs' collar until it stops turning, or until it gets to the top of the threaded body. From there, you can figure out ride height and fender stretch needed. Since the damper cannot be turned down any further, you'll just be using the spring to adjust height. This also will allow for more damping range than if you left that treaded damper sitting all high.

Go over to Megan Racings website and get yourself versed on coilover basics. They've got a great tech section for beginners.

[TMA-1]

Take a picture of your where your real coilover is. You probably still have pre-load.

Not sure what you mean by "real coilover", heres a pic of what it looks like?



I'm assuming if theres preload its only a little, I can rotate the spring in the perch with only a little resistance

[E30LIFE]

Take a picture of your where your real coilover is. You probably still have pre-load.

[TMA-1]

So you have 10kg springs in the rear instead of the 14kg? I would think that would be the other way around?

Sorry, wasn't clear about that, my coils were custom valved for 14k/10k. I was just saying that the coils with the 10k springs were in the rear.

[Minuki]

So you have 10kg springs in the rear instead of the 14kg? I would think that would be the other way around?

[TMA-1]

I cranked my rears down so I could see how much fender work I might need, I turned the coilover until it stopped completely. It felt like it bottomed out in the shock mount.

But here's the issue, once I lowered the car this is as far down as it got, am I missing something here?? Thats not even that low! I have the rear sitting on some wood with the front still up in the air on jackstands, could that be causing it? I don't see how there would be a difference in weight between it sitting completely on the ground and the way its sitting now.





And before anyone asks the rear are the rears, they were the longer pair, had R on the side of them, and had the 10k (vs 14k) springs in them