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1 1/2 years and still no low. lol 4x4 for life

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    on:120psi off:150psi

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    alright will do let me look right now. Got an interview for a better job so that stuff I can get in one paycheck

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    The second pic has a relay, a water separator, looks like a pressure switch, and a tee.

    The pressure switch should have markings on it to indicate what pressure it turns on and off at. For your purposes, you want a turn-off pressure of 200 psi.

    If that pressure switch will work, that'll save you buying that part, and since you've got a relay, you don't need the relay wiring kit I listed above.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied



    not sure what all this is? one looks to be a relay maybe?


    struts for the front


    bags 4 fatties lol

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    that's not bad at all, already have about 1500 for what I do have, my title is true 4x4 for life lol

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Welcome to air ride. Shit ain't cheap. People just about plotz when they hear what I've got in my setup, and it's not near the fanciest I've ever seen.

    You're looking at maybe $450 for all the stuff I've listed above. That'll get you to where you're ready to install the bags. You can save some money by not doing hard lines, using the stock Viair leader hoses, and so forth, but there's no getting around the expense of some of this stuff.
    Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-06-2014, 03:54 PM.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    damn seems expensive. alright see what I can do gotta get a second job or even a third.

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Sylphys are on the Nissan/Renault B-platform; the B16 Sentra is on the C-platform. The C-platform is a stretched B-platform, but I don't know how much crosses over. Knowing Nissan, probably a lot.

    So, I'm going to let your install guy decide what fittings to install on the bags, since they're dependent upon how the lines need to be routed, but here's what I'd do for the remainder of the install:



    Were it me, I'd have the leader lines from the compressors to the tank, as well as the lines between the tank and the floor bulkhead be polished copper or aluminum hardlines, just for looks, but that's optional. You can get away with using the Viair leader hoses instead of the check valve / PTC fitting contraptions above, but my experience has been that Viair's leader hoses leak and their check valves fail pretty quickly.

    So, if that layout looks like what you'd like, order anything on that diagram that you don't have currently in hand. To do that layout above, you'll need somewhere around 100' of 1/4" air line. Everything above is available from BagRiders, which makes things a little easier than trying to piece it all together from a thousand vendors.

    You'll also need:
    • Enough 4-gauge wire (preferably in red) to run from the battery to the trunk. KnuKonceptz wire is like the bestest wire that's ever happened. You'll have to forgive the fact that they have an incredibly stupid brand name.
    • A 4-gauge ring terminal to connect said wire to your battery.
    • Some way of adapting the 4-gauge wire down to a smaller gauge. A distribution block will work fine for this, but there are other ways to make this happen too.
    • 1 BagRiders Line Cutter
    • 1 BagRiders Relay Wiring Kit
    • A self-tapping screw to fit the ring terminal BagRiders gives you with the relay wiring kit
    • A 40A fuse to fit the fuse holder you've already got, and get a spare or two while you're at it
    • Enough small gauge wire to run from your dashboard to the trunk (yellow would be a very good color for this wire)
    • A few butt splice connectors in red and yellow
    • A couple female spade terminals in red
    • A single T-tap, either blue or red should work
    • A bit of heat-shrink tubing that'll cleanly fit over the red and yellow connectors (you may need two sizes here)
    • Some split wire loom, whatever size you can get that's smallest
    • Electrical tape
    • GOOD wire crimpers / strippers (not those shitty ones they have at the auto parts store, go invest in a pair of Kleins or something else that's decent)
    • A heat gun or hair dryer
    • Zip ties! You always need zip ties!
    • Some kind of thread sealant. Teflon tape is fine, lots of people swear by Loctite 545, I've been using Rectorseal T+2, but it's a fucking mess
    • Obviously if you're doing hard lines, you need some copper or aluminum tubing in 1/4" OD. You'll need a tube bender too - the cheap Harbor Freight one is fine


    I would also strongly recommend a multimeter, or at the very least, a test probe.

    I'm sure I'm forgetting something off the list, but that's pretty good to start. Get shopping!
    Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-05-2014, 09:26 PM. Reason: jesus christ, you'd think for someone who writes for a living that I could actually write.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    found more information not sure if it would be helpful for me, but apparently the nissan sylphy g11 has the same chasis as my b16?

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    from what i have been told, my installer is going to custom fab a strut for me for the rear.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    okay i have struts for the front already, hopefully they will fit for the rear just more stuff to replace i guess if not.

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  • Oh Damn, it's Sam
    replied
    Those look like Aero Sport bags for the front and are those Air House 1s or 2s for the rear?

    I'd get under the car and start taking some measurements of the area that the stock springs hang out in, since those are what's going to be taken out and replaced with the bags. Cycle the suspension front and rear, watch its movement, and see if there's anything that's going to interfere with the volume the bags are going to take up.

    In the front, additionally you've got the strut tube to worry about. Aero Sport bags fit over a maximum of a 2.14" tube, so get out there and measure the strut tube diameter.

    In the rear, if I recall correctly, the spring is fairly tight to the shock tube. I'd cycle the suspension the best you can and watch how the spring and shock relate throughout the cycle, and see if a bag the size of an Air House will fit back there, or whether you need to have brackets made that'll offset the bag to one side, or whatever.

    A lot of this is just getting under the car and observing and measuring, not to mention some trial-and-error with the brackets.

    EDIT: Also, if you're going to ride low, you might consider whether you're going to run aftermarket shocks / struts or not. That may change the calculus to some degree, and you're certainly going to want to have the bag mounts fabbed onto whatever front strut you ultimately want to run.
    Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-05-2014, 02:52 PM.

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    Since we are going through what i have for my car, is there a good way to tell if the bags i bought are going to fit for the rear and the front?

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  • baggedb16sentra
    replied
    Originally posted by Dano View Post
    Im liking where this build is heading,
    Definitely in for some bagged awesomeness.
    haha thanks not much working out kinks for what i have now as you can see lol, i am excited to see this when im done just need to get everything i really need

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  • Dano
    replied
    Im liking where this build is heading,
    Definitely in for some bagged awesomeness.

    Leave a comment:

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