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Rainmaker
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I asked some guys in the fabrication shop where I work (I am not in that shop) and they said that it looks okay, maybe. Haha. Basically you can not tell how good the weld is once it is ground down, unless you cut it apart.
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Make it rain on dem hoez! Looks to be in great shape, wheels look great too
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I got most of the rear suspension together today. I am using a 5"x8" 200lb spring in the rear. The factory spring has a 5" center at the top and a pig tail at the bottom. Luckily both spring perches bolt on. I bought two upper (5") spring perches and bolted them to the lower arm. Now I have 5" perches top and bottom.

I am using S-10 shocks.

With most of the suspension back together, I took the measurements for the adjustable panhard rod. Once I get that back on, I will change the bushings in the torque rods and make them adjustable also. I couldn't help but set the car on the ground just to see how it looked.


Rear Wheel arch and rust hole (that will get addressed after the car is drivable)

Front wheel arch hahaha

Okay now to the panhard rod. Let me start by saying that my welding experience is one college class I took at tech school 12 years ago. I measured the car and took the rod over to my friends house who has a welder. When I got to the house, I started second guessing my measurement so I only welded on side. I will re-measure and go back later.
Here is the rod before welding.

My welds looked terrible. As far as I could tell there was good penetration, but it was not pretty at all. I could tell the weld was not just sitting on top but it did not look nice and uniform. So I ground it down and had a couple pin holes to fill in. Here is how it came out.

I could see that inside the tube adapter had changed color. I would think that this tells me there was good heat and penetration, but I could be wrong. Anyone want to chime in? Would you drive on it? I mean it only locates the rear axle side to side.

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Super classy man. I love these volvos.
It's called rainmaker because the movie, or the album?
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Love it, I have a soft spot in my heart for anything with a blue interior. Can't wait to see it on the ground.
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So here is my DIY tool for the trailing arm bushings. I wish I could take credit for the idea but I stole it off the inter webs.

I really do not like this design for the bushing. You have to have that half moon piece in the center so you do not fold over the brackets while pushing the bushing out. Here is what it looks like with the bushing removed.

Old bushing.

New bushing installed.

I also took some more pictures of the car.



The all important third pedal!

Oh you want overdrive? Okay push that button on top of the shifter that says "Do not push". Just joking it doesn't say "Do not push".

Check out the service records from 87.

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Rainmaker
First $100 fake dollars to the first person to tell my why this thread is called Rainmaker.
Second I would like to thank Awful Hero for his help.
This is my 85 Volvo 244. In march I will turn in my lease car and start driving this. The plan is to rebuild the suspension while going lower and make a solid daily driver. I just realized that I never took a stock picture of the car. Here is a picture of where the car fell through my crappy trailer. Hahaha

Here is a pic with the wheels I am going to run and the rear axle on the factory bump stops.

I got the wheels off craigslist for $100. They are A.R.E wheels that fit the Volvo as is. No spacers needed. I then put some 195/60/15 rubber on them.


Rear springs


Cut the factory bump stops

Cut the panhard rod in order to make it adjustable.

Tube adapters and double adjuster for the panhard rod

The next step is to replace the trailing arm bushings, and take measurements for the panhard rod. I am going to do something similar to make the torque arms adjustable. I also have s10 shocks to go with the new springs.Last edited by Dueyferg; 01-19-2014, 06:12 PM.



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