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  • #61
    I apologize if this was stated earlier on... but, what color are you painting the bay?

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    • #62
      I'm glad someone else has some rusty holes in their shock towers to repair so I know what I'm doing when I fix mine haha. Good luck on the bay shave!
      BMW E34 V8 - Daily
      Merc 190E - Sold
      BMW 635CSi - Project
      Mercedes 190e Build Thread
      Euro BMW E24 Build Thread /Style is personal, fun is universal._____IG: @levonvandamage

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      • #63
        That looks great man! I love a good shaved... bay
        IG: ashtonlafleur

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        • #64
          Thanks guys, the holes in the bay aren't really rusty. Also the bay color I'm not sure on. Most likely it'll be the car color or a cream color. The only way it'll be a different color than the body is if I end up wrapping the car for sowo.
          I’ve had too many cars to list and most of them sucked.

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          • #65
            running a bead and cutting it will remove the possibility of flex, which is exactly what you want if you're shaving and painting it. Stitching it will suffice, but it could flex and crack after awhile.

            Indeed ever coat is the brand and it's far superior in comparison to other bondos I have used. It spreads evenly, very strong, and easy to sand. Here is a link to the good stuff (I'm sure you can find it cheaper, but this is the local place i use)


            In addition, I would go over your windows with a razor blade and take all the metal shavings off right now and mask the rest of your car off (body and windows). You will quickly have rust spots sinking into the clear coat and stuck in the window seals. No fun trust me!

            Looking good though!

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            • #66
              Originally posted by Heist View Post
              running a bead and cutting it will remove the possibility of flex, which is exactly what you want if you're shaving and painting it. Stitching it will suffice, but it could flex and crack after awhile.

              Indeed ever coat is the brand and it's far superior in comparison to other bondos I have used. It spreads evenly, very strong, and easy to sand. Here is a link to the good stuff (I'm sure you can find it cheaper, but this is the local place i use)


              In addition, I would go over your windows with a razor blade and take all the metal shavings off right now and mask the rest of your car off (body and windows). You will quickly have rust spots sinking into the clear coat and stuck in the window seals. No fun trust me!

              Looking good though!
              I appreciate all the help man, I'll order some of that filler when I get to that point. I'm doing all the body work and painting the whole car too, so will it matter if I get metal shavings on it if I'm gonna sand the whole thing down anyways?
              I’ve had too many cars to list and most of them sucked.

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              • #67
                Always liked this car.... Props for taking this big of a project on, looking forward to seeing the bay finished. .

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                • #68
                  My wheel lips are for sale, $600 17x3" 36 hole.

                  $600
                  I’ve had too many cars to list and most of them sucked.

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                  • #69
                    np and I would just try to keep the shavings off the paint and glass if possible. Just tape around the bay and cover the rest in cheap home depot painters plastic. Saves you work in the long run and lowers the chance of it embedding into the new paint.

                    Just think of all the tiny shavings flying around at high temps landing on pitted glass and paint. They dig into the paint and when you sand it it's going to put it further into the primer/paint.

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Heist View Post
                      np and I would just try to keep the shavings off the paint and glass if possible. Just tape around the bay and cover the rest in cheap home depot painters plastic. Saves you work in the long run and lowers the chance of it embedding into the new paint.

                      Just think of all the tiny shavings flying around at high temps landing on pitted glass and paint. They dig into the paint and when you sand it it's going to put it further into the primer/paint.
                      makes perfect sense. ill definitely go grab some plastic sheeting and cover up the paint
                      I’ve had too many cars to list and most of them sucked.

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                      • #71
                        I definitely wouldn't run solid beads. I do agree, however, about fully welding it. Run some heavy tacks, say 15 at a time, spread out and allow them to cool. If you run beads over that sheet metal it's going to warp and you're going to **** your life because your nice flat piece of sheet metal is all fucked. General rule of thumb is if you can hold the back of your hand against the weld it is cool enough to start welding again.

                        Keep it up, dude. I love me a shaved bay.

                        Originally posted by Kielan
                        Well dip me in shit and roll me in breadcrumbs...

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                        • #72
                          Good point ^! I probably should have mentioned taking it in sections to keep it from warping is highly recommended. In addition, you don't need thick beads just flat lined runs. The goal is to get enough penetration, but keep the wire down so you don't have to grind for a week.

                          Another useful thing is using flat copper on one side if you're filling holes or whatever. The copper will not weld with the mig and it will allow you to fill gaps and created flat edges.

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                          • #73
                            I can't wait to see this rebuild finished. Sick car man!


                            Burner's Bagged Passat

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                            • #74
                              trying to have the rest of the plates all tacked in tomorrow. wiring for the fuse box is 99.9% done, im just stupid and kinda took out and threw away the power wire for the whole fuse box,


                              because, well, see thread title.
                              I’ve had too many cars to list and most of them sucked.

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                              • #75
                                I picked up my e28 the very next week.
                                Last edited by skiislk; 12-16-2013, 08:30 PM.

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