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just stopping by to say that im lazy and dont work on my car as much as i should
also im pretty sure that due to money im going to be painting the bay then just wrapping my car for the season, and then next winter ill do a full paint job 100% perfect.
looks like you just need to go a little slower on your welds, I'm certainly no master though. I was having the same issue with my welds until I slowed down, and picked up some thicker wire. That shaved bay is going to look awesome, I really want to shave mine but I don't know where to start. wiring and vacuum lines are my biggest fears, did you just go for it, or did you/friend have experience? And good luck on the build, I cant wait to see the finished product.
yeah, my welding could definitely use some improvement, i know ive had the wire speedup too high as well, but as long as they hold i can grind them down, im not expecting to get perfect welds with a flux welder
looks like you just need to go a little slower on your welds, I'm certainly no master though. I was having the same issue with my welds until I slowed down, and picked up some thicker wire. That shaved bay is going to look awesome, I really want to shave mine but I don't know where to start. wiring and vacuum lines are my biggest fears, did you just go for it, or did you/friend have experience? And good luck on the build, I cant wait to see the finished product.
trying to have the rest of the plates all tacked in tomorrow. wiring for the fuse box is 99.9% done, im just stupid and kinda took out and threw away the power wire for the whole fuse box,
Good point ^! I probably should have mentioned taking it in sections to keep it from warping is highly recommended. In addition, you don't need thick beads just flat lined runs. The goal is to get enough penetration, but keep the wire down so you don't have to grind for a week.
Another useful thing is using flat copper on one side if you're filling holes or whatever. The copper will not weld with the mig and it will allow you to fill gaps and created flat edges.
I definitely wouldn't run solid beads. I do agree, however, about fully welding it. Run some heavy tacks, say 15 at a time, spread out and allow them to cool. If you run beads over that sheet metal it's going to warp and you're going to **** your life because your nice flat piece of sheet metal is all fucked. General rule of thumb is if you can hold the back of your hand against the weld it is cool enough to start welding again.
np and I would just try to keep the shavings off the paint and glass if possible. Just tape around the bay and cover the rest in cheap home depot painters plastic. Saves you work in the long run and lowers the chance of it embedding into the new paint.
Just think of all the tiny shavings flying around at high temps landing on pitted glass and paint. They dig into the paint and when you sand it it's going to put it further into the primer/paint.
makes perfect sense. ill definitely go grab some plastic sheeting and cover up the paint
np and I would just try to keep the shavings off the paint and glass if possible. Just tape around the bay and cover the rest in cheap home depot painters plastic. Saves you work in the long run and lowers the chance of it embedding into the new paint.
Just think of all the tiny shavings flying around at high temps landing on pitted glass and paint. They dig into the paint and when you sand it it's going to put it further into the primer/paint.
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