92 isuzu pickup budget build

[cheesefacedogbone]

I got a buddy that has 2 totaled chrysler sebrings. He says they both have a 3.something liter mitsubishi v6 in them. I dont know much about engines at all, but he says if I wanted one, I could have it. Hes supposed to be checking to see what size they are, but I dont know whether it would be worth doing, or If I could even bolt one up to a rwd tranny.

I honestly have no idea. If anybody has any input on this I would certainly appreciate it.

[Isuzupickup]

I would pass on those. What do you want out of the truck? Like balls to the wall fast, turbo, or a,little more than the 2.3? The GM 4.3 is a pretty common swap with a lot of info. I personally did the ka24de nissan motor with few complications. Soon to be turbo. As far as drop in swaps it's really only the turd 3.1 rodeo motor.

[cheesefacedogbone]

I would pass on those. What do you want out of the truck? Like balls to the wall fast, turbo, or a,little more than the 2.3? The GM 4.3 is a pretty common swap with a lot of info. I personally did the ka24de nissan motor with few complications. Soon to be turbo. As far as drop in swaps it's really only the turd 3.1 rodeo motor.

Initially I really wasnt concerned about doing a swap, but I feel like the truck is gonna look like it should have something more under the hood. Im not concerned about being crazy fast, but definately something more. A turbo motor would be cool. But I really dont have a ton of money to throw at anything. I think a turbo motor out of the old isuzu impulse rwd cars would be pretty cool, but they arent that easy to find. I guess Im looking for something relatively easy to find, and pretty stout without breaking the bank

[cheesefacedogbone]

Didn't get as much done this weekend as I would have liked. I played with headlights a bit. The 7 inch round ones look good in the grille. Not sure is I still want to run smaller ones with them or not. I have pics will post tonight.

I also found some old grille inserts I forgot I had, I'm gonna mess with them tonight and see how they might look.

And I've been think a lot about the front fender flares. I have a couple ideas kicking around but it seems like the simplest would be to bring th back section of the flare into the door and let it taper off there. Would be super easy if I cold find another bed to cut the flares off of. But probably not too difficult to just make them that way too.

Well see. Pics coming tonight

[LOCALTHIRTEEN]

Didn't get as much done this weekend as I would have liked. I played with headlights a bit. The 7 inch round ones look good in the grille. Not sure is I still want to run smaller ones with them or not. I have pics will post tonight.

I also found some old grille inserts I forgot I had, I'm gonna mess with them tonight and see how they might look.

And I've been think a lot about the front fender flares. I have a couple ideas kicking around but it seems like the simplest would be to bring th back section of the flare into the door and let it taper off there. Would be super easy if I cold find another bed to cut the flares off of. But probably not too difficult to just make them that way too.

Well see. Pics coming tonight

Cant wait to see some pics!!!

[speakerboy]

I would pass on those. What do you want out of the truck? Like balls to the wall fast, turbo, or a,little more than the 2.3? The GM 4.3 is a pretty common swap with a lot of info. I personally did the ka24de nissan motor with few complications. Soon to be turbo. As far as drop in swaps it's really only the turd 3.1 rodeo motor.

+1 for passing on those engines. They are smoke machines for sure. Typical HG issues and you are burning oil.

[cheesefacedogbone]

the shots of the lights mocked up are shit. I only had them there for a few minutes before I got a call to help my parents move a stove. lol. and the sun was glaring down but you kinda get the visual. they both will be mounted closer to the marker light. Thats just where the 7 inch light fit, without cutting anything.





now to the flaring concepts. as you can see in the pics below, the stock flare ends right at the door edge. The new flares need to have a lip 2-1/2" out from stock to sit flush with the top of the wheel. That is an awful lot to to try to keep way from the door edge and still look clean.




one idea is something like this. the recessed portion would allow a smoother transition into the door,.but Im afraid it might look kinda ricey, and seems like id have to do something similiar on the back to match. Im just not sure if it would fit this truck. bte. Im not great at photoshopping. lol




other idea is to make the flare longer and maybe about about a 1/4 of the way into the door. AIt would look a heck of a lot smoother. it would involve a lot of work to the door( im not opposed to doing it though) it would match the longer flow of the rear flares.

lol. heres another shitty photoshop to show how that might look.



I am also thinking of only bring the flare out an 1-3/4" and cheating the rest with a big 3/4" rolled lip.

I can see these perfectly in my head, but Im having trouble illustrating that on a computer. i would appreciate some feed back because Im still pretty up in the air about how im want to do them.

[LOCALTHIRTEEN]

I like the look of the flair running into the door a lot.

[cheesefacedogbone]

I like the look of the flair running into the door a lot.

I think that's the way I'm going. I've been brushing up on my TIg welding. The cutting welding starts tonight or tomorrow.

[speakerboy]

Agreed on the flare into the door. Are you sure you will still be able to open it without some weirdo hinges to push the door out? How much room do you have in the hinge for that flare?

[cheesefacedogbone]

Agreed on the flare into the door. Are you sure you will still be able to open it without some weirdo hinges to push the door out? How much room do you have in the hinge for that flare?

The inner part of the door will have to cut and moved out too behind the hinges, but I shouldn't have to mess with the hinges at all. And with the back edge of the fender moved out the door will have plenty of room to open

[cheesefacedogbone]

Also in the photo shopped pic, the flare into the door is a heck of a lot more than it probably will be in reality. It should flow into the door pretty mildly and I think only about 10-12 inches of the door edge will be affected. It's hard to explain, it'll make more sense when I start cutting. Lol

[speakerboy]

The inner part of the door will have to cut and moved out too behind the hinges, but I shouldn't have to mess with the hinges at all. And with the back edge of the fender moved out the door will have plenty of room to open

Cool. Not trying to question your obvious ingenuity, just thinking out loud. Carry on with the fabrication!

[cheesefacedogbone]

Cool. Not trying to question your obvious ingenuity, just thinking out loud. Carry on with the fabrication!

its cool man. your post made me go stare at the truck and think long and hard. Im not completely sure now if it will be a problem or not. I need to do some more staring tomorrow and hopefully I can start cutting.

[cheesefacedogbone]

Flares day 1

I started on flaring the passenger side fender today. This first pic is the first cut I made. I thought bringing the back edge out some would help getting the wheel opening out more. Im not sure if it helped that or not, but as youll see in the pics after that, that it needs to come out more.




I only had an hour at the shop to work today, so I didnt have much time for pics. I cut all the way the across to the marker light and pulled it out enough to tack in a small peice to keep it out until I got home.

here I have done quite a bit more. i cut all the through the fender at the marker light, because it was binding the fender up trying to pull it out. I put a 1" spacer in the front fender mount by the marker light. it look weird with such a bulge at the cut line, and pulled in at the bottom. The front lower edge is now pretty much flush with the bumper.


I had to beat on it pretty good from the inside to stretch the metal out to the right shape. Once you start pulling, the metal will only go sar fa4r in its orignal shape. The lip is out right at 2" Ill cheat the rest with a rolled out lip.

there is too much of a bulge I think on the front edge of the peice I welded in. Ill either cut it out and reweld it or just try to shape it with hammers and dollies when its all welded up. I cut some strips and put sheet metal screws in just to hold shape until I get back to the welder,



I think its looks alright in that shot. I think the roll down from the top part of the fender needs some working to make it look cleaner. I cant really get anything thing in there with the fender on though. After its wleded, shaping that will be my primary focus.

heres a shot from the back. the bottom of the fender is out more than I want it, but thats because I broke the bolt trying to loosen it.


Then to get a better impression , I laid masking tape over and threw some spray bomb on it. I do think the back of the fender need to come out another 1/2" maybe so It will flow better into the door. but i dont want to cut it until I can tack it back .






and thats about it for day one. more cutting and welding tomorrow