Kaido Crown

[floatingdino]

If that's where you plan the wheel to be sitting, will you be radiusing the guards as well?

[180roman]

I dig this. I want to see it with the wheels on!! :-D

Thanks

If that's where you plan the wheel to be sitting, will you be radiusing the guards as well?

In terms of low, the plan is to sit the wheels at about the height that the 9s were at, so lip mms from the guard.

I fully slammed it to test out just how long this thing can go. I thought I would have much bigger issues with going low, but this car does it like a champ.

To make the 12s fit I'm looking at doing the following things:
Mildly flare the guards
Massage the tubs for clearance if required
Cut and modify the swing arms to accept demon camber
Reinforce shock mounts to accept coilovers
Remove the old spring mount off the swing arm
Possibly fit custom bump stops
Possibly notch the swing arms to clear rails

So I really don't want to do much guard work, as the idea is to have a pretty stock body allowing me to change to Kyusha Kai style similar to the photo of the 9s.

Most of the modifications will be done to the swing arms because that would allow me to easily change back to stock to clear defects, as they are very strict with chassis modifications over here, but the shock mounts modifications should be pretty subtle and not very noticeable.

[charlie_91]

could u not cut and shut ur rear control arms like 20-30mm ?

[180roman]

could u not cut and shut ur rear control arms like 20-30mm ?

The Crown rear suspension is the same design IRS as the old Toyota Celica/Supra IRS and one also found on old Nissans/Datsuns.

It looks similar to this, but the Crown has a separate body and frame.



So there is only 1 arm that controls, camber, toe and caster. Most primitive of all IRS setups.

[244Brick]

You can't use a custom alum/steel camber shim. Then, drill the holes out and add extended bolts?

[180roman]

You can't use a custom alum/steel camber shim. Then, drill the holes out and add extended bolts?

Nah not for -17 deg of camber ha ha

[244Brick]

[180roman]

[IG]http://jasonsgrainofsalt.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/30cu2op.jpg[/IMG]

nailed it

but yeah pretty much something like that but there will still be a driveshaft coming through there

So just cut the hub off the swing arm, jack up the swing arm to the desired slammed height and mock up how the hub should sit to achieve the rim on guard lip action.

Then just tack it all together, test fit and weld in with some reinforcements

[Anonymoose]

Then dort dort

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpz1b_bd5Z4"]Japan Car Mod Gangs - Kaido (Highway) Racer II - YouTube[/ame]

[Minuki]

Lower dis bitch already plz

[180roman]

Then dort dort

Japan Car Mod Gangs - Kaido (Highway) Racer II - YouTube

I love the whole way they modify cars, they just do whatever they want.

The engine revving thing they do is their "Call" and different clubs have different "call".

When I went to Japan last November I was lucky enough to meet Team Burst driver Naoki Nakamura and he played us his "call" in his S13 at the G1 GP afterparty after he had a few drinks.

It went something like this, I don't have the footage from the night, but it is somewhere on a friend's facebook

Lower dis bitch already plz

The rear is lowered... :P

I'm working 15 days in a row atm, so no time or energy for cars at all

[180roman]

Made use of the Crown grill that I can't fit.

Mood lighting setup for my room

[floatingdino]

wrong post roman, it needs to say

"The Crown is on the ground and the wheels go round"

[montgomery]

Hurry up I'm growing agitated.

[180roman]

Well I haven't been twiddling my thumbs all this time.
Well actually I have, coz I went away for 1 week, but after I did try and do some work on the Crown.

I've been trying to figure out how I should proceed with modifying the front end and what needs to be done to have the wheels fit.

The car is a ladder frame chassis and as such most of the parts on this car are bolt on. Including the inner tubs on the front.







But these tubs are not plastic, they are metal and have a lot of stuff bolt onto them.



The problem is, the area where the tubs meet the fenders will get in the way of going low and flaring the guards.

So I've been investigating a few options.
Option 1:
Remove the tubs completely and run air tubs.
The issue with this is that there are a lot of things that mount to the tubs, so this will need to be cleaned up/relocated or new brackets made.
The also means that the engine bay will get filthy really quickly as all the dirt will be flying in.

Option 2:
Cut out the section where the inner tub meets the fender, but leave the section that continues to the engine bay.
This solution should give enough clearance to flare the guards and lower the car without scrubbing.
It will also stop dirt from coming into the engine bay unlike air tubs and will also let me leave most of the engine bay untouched.

Option 3:
Unbolt the fender from the inner tub where they join and flare the fender to suit the wheels.
Then massage the inner tub with a hammer to clearance for wheels and lows.
This should let me retain and almost stock appearance for when trying to clear defects, but one that would probably take the most panel beating work.

I've also been investigating what kind of coilovers I should order.





The spring and shock mount is about half way on the lower arm, which means that there is a lot more leverage at that point, about double.
So I think I will need to up the spring rates I was planning to order. Now I'm not sure if I should be ordering 40kg or 60kg spring rates...

Also the shock is really short, so the whole coilover assembly would have to be tiny...
The exact length I will need to figure out once I drop the suspension out and can fit a ruler in there.


To tidy up the look of the engine bay I think I'll just respray the valve covers as most of the paint has flaked off with age. Just factory wrinkle black with brushed fins

Oh and apparently its a TOYODA