99 SVT Contour track slut by PRT Autosport

[Pole120]

I never scaled it after I did the aluminum trunk floor and gutted the rear doors, but it was 2520 with 1/4 tank of gas after initial completion.

[motocaddy]

this is one of my favorite cars on here because of all the design and fabrication! good work.

only thing is the braced harness bar is pretty silly. would have been almost easier to install a main hoop and run bracing from it to strut towers. also, it would make more sense when you referred to it as a "cage"

[Pole120]

I appreciate the kind words. If you like this one, you'll love the RWD build once I get back on it. At the time I built this car the first time around, a full cage wasn't in the budget. I have intent to add a main hoop, front door bars and two more rear bars this year. I needed the harness bar, and I needed the rear strut tower bar to compensate for all the structure I removed from the rear deck, connecting the two while I was at it just seemed to make sense as tying the rear towers into the b-pillars added a lot of rigidity to an already stiff factory chassis.

[Pole120]

Still some work to be done, but the engine mount is to the point of being functional. Had a lot of trouble with the welder and the piece of factory bracket has some kind of coating that made life a •••••. Penetration is good but they look like ass. I'll get them cleaned up when I finish it out. I've got a few orders to get built this week so this will be about it until the weekend. It's less than half the weight of the factory unit.

[Pole120]

Can't believe how long it's been since the last update but the shop has been slammed with orders and part sales(which is great because I have a ton to order for the car). I've had a few chances to get to the car, so here's where we're at.

The scratch built engine mount and modified trans mount are done and ready for powdercoat. I just need to order material and machine some aluminum washers to replace the steel ones. Overall I dropped the engine and trans assembly about 1/2". The main purpose for this change was to be able to run urethane isolators that are much stiffer than the factory units, and there is almost no deflection in these new bushings.

Modded trans mount:




Scratch-built engine mount:










I had a little spare time tonight and started looking into deleting the heater supply and return ports on the water pump and block manifold. I have a bypass hose installed on the car now, but with part of this year's goal being to clean up the bay I felt it time to look into this. There is one downfall to this and that is if I go through with it I will be eliminating the factory oil cooler and may need to look into an external unit. I'm not sold on the mod yet, but I wanted to play with it at least and see what my options were.

[Pole120]

Part orders have begun to roll in. First up the S13 240SX camber plates came in. Unexpectedly they have minor caster adjustment. Not much, but better than the none I figured I was getting. They are quality pieces and I've already begun mocking up install. Outside of welding in the new strut tower tops it should be a straightforward install and make a big difference in the car. I will be finalizing the Solidworks models this week and will likely order the new CNC cut strut tower tops next week.






I also had some time tonight to play with the new rad mount spacers. I had usses with the Vortech supplied pieces mainly in that they were unequal(required for stock cars) and they didn't push the rad a far as I wanted to. I had some AL rectangular tube laying around and knocked out the new pieces tonight. Next up in this area will be to re-mount the fenders and front end core components and get the new tubular front end completed.

[Pole120]

Finished adapting for the S13 camber plates this weekend and cut the towers out. Next step will be having the new tops CNC plasma cut and welding them in!

Making the adapters:










I did things a little differently than is typically done with these camber plates in that I wanted to retain the roller bearings instead of relying on the pillow ball. I've seen a few pics of damage to parts when the pillow ball seized etc, but additionally I really like how smoothly the needle bearings work, so it was just a matter of incorporating a new perch into the required spacer.






I also removed the step from the top hat as with the new plates it's not necessary. It's required on stock cars to keep the hat from contacting the upper strut mount. This was done to allow for more ride height adjustment and an overall cleaner look.






And lastly removal of the remainder of the stock tower top.

[Pole120]

[600whp s4]

time for a 3L short block

[Pole120]

time for a 3L short block

If you're referring to this car, I've already 3L swapped it. This time around we're adding boost.

[Randomofodication]

Wow that is a lot of work! I'm impressed at how
Much fab work has gone into this

[Pole120]

Thanks. It's a labor of love and OCD. I can't seem to leave anything alone.

[MommysLittleMonster]

I just read through your entire thread, and I am thoroughly impressed. You remind me a lot of my friend who built and raced a Z24 Cavalier- you took an oddball car, tore it down to it's bare ass, and then went through and completely transformed it.

Your fabrication work is exquisite, and everything you've done so far is done with calculating precision and execution.

Hats off to you, good sir.

[Pole120]

Very much appreciated, hopefully this years build and my next project deliver the same satisfaction. Here's a few more shots a friend took this past weekend.

[244Brick]

This is sweet