mad-ass' car progress.

[way2fastx3]

SO MUCH WIN ON THIS! Love it all

[projektzwo]

you talking about these new revolutionary child holders?

do you still keep these? will be mounted on the s-chassis, really would like to see them on car

cheers!

[mad-ass]

^those aren't my wheels.

But....

Here we go...

[mad-ass]

18x9.5+15 245/40/18

[mad-ass]

Almost there...

[mad-ass]

And...my skinny wheels are on!

18x9.5+15 245/40/18
18x10+38 275/35/18

[mad-ass]

I had to pull my rear fenders 1/2" more today to clear the tires. making it total of 3/4" pull from stock.

[mad-ass]

I raised my car up 15mm all around today due to some front fender/tire rubbing. 0 rubbing now and it actually doesn't look too bad.

Before I raised the car up..

and got too dark for my cell-phone to take a decent pic so I'll get that up tomorrow.

[rice4life]

Very nice! You still in cali?

You should hit up adams drift night if you are!

I would like to see an s14 with all those classy JDM navan parts. So glad you are keeping her zenki <3

[mad-ass]

my current aero's are Version Select Type I/Duraflex knock off's. :p

I'll keep it zenki no matter what, I personally don't give two shits about the Kouki front ends, more because every fucking fan boys droll over that for no reason. and slap on a $800 worth of kouki front end on a $2000 zenki, now the price is $5000, zomfg kouki hella sick shit jdm!!!

no, that's about the gayest thing I can think of. :p

How ever, I am in nor-cal, and I believe Adams is in LA yeah? my friend goes out there from time to time. He's got a white S14 with my old white RPF1's on his car.

[mad-ass]

I'm still alive.

[floridaeuro]

Wait a sec....thats not a s14. More pics!!!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[mad-ass]

I think this is a long over due update on the car.

I sold the Aero off the car and went back to stock bumpers in May or June. wanted to change things up. Full exterior make over is not in my top priorities at the moment, but I'll get it done, after my engine swap is completed because I want to repaint the car. And the car has passed another big mile stone of 200,000 miles on chassis/engine! quiet amazing, and also I no longer daily drive the S14.

So, I bought OEM Fog lights for car in it's old age gift in June. came across a deal on very good conditioned fog lights and brackets on Zilvia that I just couldn't pass up on, and also the OEM switch for the headlight/blinker/foglight came up very shortly after the fog-light purchase also for very good price on Zilvia. I spent total of $120 on this setup! Couldn't be happier with how it all turned out. everything was literally plug and play, all you need to do is add the relay in relay/fuse box in the engine bay and you are good to go.

I took my car into Car N Bike Moto in Vallejo, CA to get the sunroof removed in July. I supplied them with non-sunroof head-liner and used S14 roof(non-sunroof) so that they can transfer the support ridges and use the same spot that needs to be covered up so have same shape again. Over all, I am happy with the results.

Changed the front tires from 245/40/18's to 235/40/18's in Sept. It is a better matching side wall height than the 245 was and it just looks right on the car IMO.

I installed the PBM/PSM Traction rod that I had saying around for about two years now on the car in Oct. Can't tell if it did anything on the car or not. LOL

I bought stock S14 rear knuckles from Lunarbomb in mindset of doing the Energy suspension bushings, burning the bushings spacers out was easy. Torch them until the bushing rubber starts to expand on both sides and grab and pull it out with a needle nose pliers. Now getting the metal sleeves out was something else. easiest way of doing it was cutting a slot into the metal sleeve with a hack saw and hammering it out with the closest sized deep socket. Now I gotta clean up the knuckles a bit from the mess it got into when I burned the bushings and I'll be pressing the new bushings in.

I attempted to replace the outer tie rod's and the rack bellow this past Sunday(Nov 10th, 2013) which I also had laying around for about a full year(Moog Tie rods, Beck&Arney bellow), passenger side went smooth, everything came loose with out any trouble, took whole 15 mins on one side because I was taking my sweet ass time as usual. Now driver side on the other hand, not so good. The inner and outer tie rods were seized together and just refused to come apart. I torched it for 5 mins, ground down 1/4 of the outer layer of the outer tie rods so that less threads are attached....basically everything I knew how to get the seized bolt out did not work. So I had to order new inner tie rods. I could have bought a new one same day from Autozone or Oreilly, but for no-name brand to cost $40+ wasn't clicking right with so I ordered Moog inner tie rods from RockAuto for whopping $26 shipped(always for coupon when using rockauto, that sweet 5% off!). It came in on the Thursday(Nov. 14th, 2013).

Now that I am kind of caught up on what's been happening with my car, let me tell you about today's events!(15Nov)

I started the day with picking up the parts I ordered from the GM Dealership. Trying to stay with OEM parts as much as possible on my light engine over haul(LS6 Oil pump, Oil pick-up tube O-ring seal, Map sensor gasket, PCV, LS2 timing chain, Knock sensor seals, water pump gasket, water passage tube gaskets, MLS exhaust manifold gasket, crank pulley bolt, oil fill tube). I installed the Moog inner and outer tie rods on the driver side, it went so smooth that I could not believe it myself, but note to self that I need to replace the steering rack some time as it is leaking from the output shaft seals and has up/down play in it. Now time to install all those parts I got from GM...that also went super smooth as well with not much trouble....except the very last fucking bolt! it's the bolt that connects the front engine cover to the oil pan(M8x1.25 in size with 10mm hex-head) thread that stripped out on the front engine cover itself. I hand tighten the bolt with just the socket and extension and immediately put torque wrench on it(M8 bolts on LSx motors are usually 18 OR 22 ft/lbs) to be tighten down, but it stripped anyways.

So I do my normal things and tinker about how to fix the problem. Tap it out to bigger size(M10x1.25 came into mind...) or fix it with Helicoil/Permacoil(on thread repair subject matters, Helicoil used to be very awesome as it was used for NASA Space shuttles, and some time in year 2000's, they start manufacturing their tools in China yet the price remained "Brand Name" high. Perma-Coil is just as good if not better than Heli-coil to me and have used Perma-Coil on lots of different stuff that needed fixing for some times 1/4 of the price of Heli-Coil. If I had the money, I'd buy Time-Sert...but I am not rich by any means)....I am currently favoring the idea of thread repair more, and this process actually got me reading into LS1HowTo pages...and it mentions that I should not tighten down the front engine cover until the crank pulley is installed in place.

Well shit how about that? I guess everything happens for a reason because I wasn't planning on installing the crank pulley tonight.

So tomorrow's task is to find local store that sells the Perma-Coil in M8x1.25, fix the thread on the front engine cover and do the final install.














Nov 16, 2013

I started the day with buying the tools and parts I needed for the day's job.

Perma-Coil M8x1.25 ($20)
21/62 drill bit ($8)
Timken 100470 (Front engine cover/crank pulley/harmonic balancer seal.) ($18)





So..first things first! liberally clean out the stripped hole with brake parts cleaner, since the material shown here is actually a very very soft aluminum cast, any small debris can leave unwanted scratches.


Next step is to grab the STI tap(the specialty tap only meant to be used with thread repair inserts) and proceed to tap the hole out. Be sure to back out the tap fully after every 1 or 2 full rotation you cut into the hole to clean all the metal out, again same concept as last post, you don't want any unwanted scratches here. I would normally use ATF as lube for taps, especially on aluminum(aluminum is #1 way to ruin your taps and drill bits as the small particles foul out the cutting edges, never go too fast when cutting/drilling aluminum!!), but I couldn't find any at the time so I went extra careful and pulled the tap out every 1 full rotations.


after the hole is cleaned out of any remaining debris with aid of brake parts cleaner, it's time to insert the thread repair coil. Fully insert the coil and go in about .5~1 full rotation INTO the hole after it is flushed with the surface with the coil insert tool. check the thread for proper installation and insert a punch or flat head screw driver and knock the little tang/tab off the end. Insert the proper sized bolt and check that it goes in and out buttery smooth. you may begin to party/crunk after this step.


Next step was the install the Front engine cover seal. I used the Lisle seal remover tool, it came out with in seconds. This seal is a full metal bodied seal and is a press fit as usual. I lightly lubed up the outter edges of the new seal(with Castrol Edge!! that good good stuff, I use this on my 2JZ) and hand pressed it as much as I can, and using the old seal that I pulled out of it. I tapped my way around it with a small dead-blow hammer until it was flushed with the surface.

Apply a thin coat of RTV to the bottom 1/4 of the front engine cover and under side of it, mate it up to the engine and finger tighten all the bolts down. install the crank pulley by using the old crank pulley bolt until it's fully seated and torque it down to 240 ft/lbs(yes that was a bitchin amount of TQ, the torque value is so high because you need to make sure the crank pulley is fully seated into the crank...luckly I had TQ wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs which is SnapOn[extra side note on Snap-On Torque Wrenches, they are all made by company name CDI, in fact they are exactly the same except the label, so buy CDI Torque wrench from Amazon instead of SnapOn and save some $$]), now remove that bolt you just shit your pants on to torque down, Insert new crank pulley bolt and torque it down to 37 ft/lbs. Now, these bolts are Torque-To-Yeild bolts, which means you need to tighten them down by the degrees of angle from the starting point, and these suckers needs to turn full 140 degrees. I put a small black dot on the bolt at top center before I started my journey to that sweet ass 140 degrees of torqueing...and let me tell you, this is not that easy. I used my normal trusty breaker bar with full length handle of my floor jack to get this job done. It really feels like you are going to brake the damn bolt off, but it won't, damn thing is strong as hell and also a bitchin time to get it to 140 degrees of torque.

Now go back and torque the front engine cover bolts down to 18 ft/lbs.

Job is now complete. I decided to have a beer and slap some Dear mama by TuPac(classy fella right there)

[mad-ass]

Today..I tried doing my own alignment. Perhaps I need more flat ground to accomplish this because I measured everything correctly and car drives funny.

[mad-ass]

So..I ordered projectors to "retro fit" yesterday.
Should be fun!

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3181