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The Only Shelby Lancer On StanceWorks.

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Daviticus View Post
    Yeah it's definitely staying with a Chrysler 8-valve. I've got to proudly rock the Shelby valve cover, haha.

    Here's a set of wheels that popped into my head just a minute ago ... MemoryFab M Technica Turbos.



    5x100, 16x8.5 +15. That would fit quite nicely with minimal effort.
    those wheels will fit with the theme of the car. Good job so far op, glad to see you've decided to keep the car.
    sigpic

    Follow me on Instagram! @cskzero

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    • #47
      YES!!! Those wheels scream WIN! imo that would be the crowning jewel to an rarely stanced beast of awesomeness!


      Build thread ------> http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1186733#post1186733

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      • #48
        I like where this is going. Please for the love of everything that is awesome, drop a srt4 motor in this.

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        • #49
          those wheels work so much better than nue's. in for it
          @DollaDollaDill

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          • #50
            This is too cool man. I'll definitely be following this build.

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            • #51
              yesyesyesyesyes.

              this is good. i will be watching

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              • #52
                Hi, my name is Jeremy Mitchell and I have the Shelby Lancer in Wyoming you posted pics of. Just wondering how far you've gotten with your project. I have test-fit the rear BC coil-over kit from Rich Bryant on the rear of my car in order to help with the development of the kit that Rich Bryant put together. I have not made progress on the front though. For all I know you've gotten farther with this than I have! Good luck and let me know if you need assistance.

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                • #53
                  Hey Jeremy. Sadly I have put the Shelby on the back-burner for the time being, as its' sitting in a storage unit just over an hour away from me. Hopefully within the next few weeks it'll be moved closer to me so I can regain focus on it. Over the last while my automotive ADD has caused me to focus a bit too much on my Starion, as well as my Volvo 240DL and the 240sx it replaced earlier this year.
                  - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                  • #54
                    Sweet unique car
                    http://www.neuemotorsports.com/

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                    • #55
                      I almost bought a Shelby Daytona for my first car...but when I went back to the lot it was at two days later (took me that long to convince my parents that I needed that car, me in a red turbo two door didn't sit well with mom) it was gone....and I was sad. This car is awesome, you and MUST get the wheels you posted...MUST.
                      sigpic
                      04 X-type | 2.5L 5-speed | KW Coilovers | 19x9.5 bbs style (not real) wheels w/ 245/35/19s | Mina Gallery exhaust | Specter intake | slotted and drilled rotors | race seats | Redline leather shift boots and suede steering wheel wrap | black mesh grills | Cosmo racing short shifter | trunk lip spoiler | euro front bumper blades |

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                      • #56
                        Haha, it's good to see there's some love left for the old turbo Dodges and Shelby's. Any of the posted wheel choices so far are probably not going to happen for awhile due to budget constraints. It'll most likely get wide steelies to begin with [I know, snore, BORING] and a quick paint job with new decals.

                        I've also been doing a lot of reading on suspension bits, and it seems 1st gen Neon assemblies will almost bolt in [minor strut tower mods] and even stock height Neon stuff about slams a K-based car like this. I've also pretty well got the rear figured out. Just got to actually do it.
                        - Bagged '98 Chevy S10 - Stock '88 Volvo 240DL - Broken '87 Mitsubishi Starion ESi-R - Also Broken '87 Shelby Lancer #707/800 -

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                        • #57
                          I am late to this party, but maybe better late than never.

                          If you were reading up on Neon struts you probably read several of my contributions. I've run the 1g and 2g neon setups on several different k-cars. You stated that all neons have the same front struts but i suspect you have since found out that isn't true. The 1g neon struts are much shorter than the 2g. The 1g neon struts fit snugly at the spindle, while the 2g neon struts require a spacer between the strut and spindle. Both gens of neon strut use the same type of upper mount.

                          I made a post comparing some common FWD mopar strut specs over on Turbo-Mopar.com: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...chanfgeability

                          So, as you pointed out, the 2g neon strut is not much shorter than the stock k-car strut. However, the neon upper strut mount puts the end of the strut shaft farther up in the strut tower. You had mentioned making something that would do that. If you redrill the strut tower to run the neon strut tops, the stock neon strut mount will accomplish that to some degree. To do that you need a 3.5" holesaw and to re-drill at least two of the 3 holes for the mounting studs.



                          Stock SRT4 coils will have a k-car sitting pretty low and will tuck a LITTLE tire if you're running a tallish tire. Here is my Dodge Dynasty with stock uncut SRT4 front springs on 2g neon struts.

                          The ONLY physical difference between regular 2g neon and srt4 struts is that the SRT4 strut has the lower perch raised about 1/4" to accomodate taller tire heights. However, since i was buying new struts anyway (rockauto for this cheap bastard) i ordered regular 2g neon to get the extra 1/4" drop and it still fits 245/40/17. If you put coilovers on a neon strut than offset becomes more of a fitment issue than tire height.

                          Note: The SRT4 and PT cruiser share identical strut housings/perches.

                          Also, im pretty sure you have it backwards as to the koni strut inserts. Im 99% sure the longer inserts go in the rear. However, you are right to think you can put the front inserts into the stock k-car housing.

                          The 1g neon strut is VERY short and lets you DUMP the car while still having some compression travel left. BUT! I have found this is a tricky road to take because on a slammed K-car the lowest hanging component on the whole car are the engine and tranny oil pans! You have a 5spd which doesnt have an oil pan but i actually hit a raised manhole cover in my Spirit and BROKE the trans case and had to swap the trans out so the manual is not immune from damage either. These cars lay engine before they lay frame so you really cant slam the fuck out of it without a LOT of extra work.

                          Also, if you really want to go low you may want to consider swapping to an 88-95 k-frame and control arm because the 87 stuff on the lancer has a rear control arm pivot that goes into a bind at really high control arm angles (as does the swaybar for that matter).

                          If if was my car and i wanted to go REALLY low, i would buy 1g neon Koni STRTs and put coilovers on them, and convert to an 88-up k-frame and control arms and just ditch the front swaybar. I would also 'tune' the bumpstops in to protect your oil pan, by setting the car on the ground without springs like you already did, and putting spacers behind your bumpstops until they hit before your oil pan hits. You can make spacers with a holesaw and a dollar store cutting board. Polybushings.com sells some really nice strut bumpstops for like $15/pair too.

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                          • #58
                            Here is stock 1g neon struts and uncut springs on my 82 Lebaron.

                            Before

                            After

                            Lowered the rear some and added wheels. 205/50/15

                            This is going to sound depressing but both the cars in the below picture are REALLY close to the ground with their oil pans and have dents in them. You can still see a lot of light under those bodies too. Luckily you have ground effects which will make the car look lower even though you cant really go much lower in the front than these cars.


                            This is mostly unrelated but here is a link to a Lancer Shelby i am building for GRM $2013 Challenge: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...d/72797/page1/

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                            • #59
                              Woe


                              W I L D M A N 'S R O D S H O P




                              R.I.P P.WALKER 2013/11/30

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                              • #60
                                HA. this is awesome I used to drive a lowered pink and flat black Sundance in High School.

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