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what other v6/tt/awd 90's jap cars can you remember?

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  • ZammoTheChoppa
    replied
    Originally posted by Capt. Obvious View Post
    A few mm difference between tires won't cause any discernable vibration/grinding/popping/wear on your differentials. Do you really think tires wear perfectly even all around on cars? Give me a break and stop spreading unfactual information about AWD systems. It doesn't matter if it's torsen, viscous, Haldex, or some other variation; they are engineered to have rotational variation amongst the tires (torque/rotational differences is how they work in the first place).

    Find me ONE example of someone on any forum, anywhere, for any AWD car brand that has blown a diff from running staggered width wheels with properly matched tires.

    General rule of thumb for staggering tires on AWD cars is the keep the overall diameter within 3% from front to rear.

    With 18x10 and 18x12s I would recommend any of the following combinations:

    225/40 and 265/35 (.87%)

    235/40 and 265/35 (.4%)

    235/40 and 275/35 (.67%)

    Personally, I'd go with the 235/40 and 275/40 combo because 3000GTs are pretty big cars and deserve meaty tires.

    Also, that combo will give you the most symetrical stetch from front to rear so you don't have barely stretched tires in the front and super stretched tires in the rear.

    If you want to play with more tire size combos, I like this tire calculator:
    http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
    OOOOOOHHHHHHHH no no no no U SIR are WRONG

    this will be long

    The ability of four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles to divide the engine's horsepower between its four tires is especially useful on loose or slippery surfaces such as sand and dirt, as well as on wet, icy or snow-covered roads. However it's important to remember that in order to transfer this extra power, the four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicle's driveline mechanically connects the tires so they work in unison.

    Four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles are equipped with additional differentials and/or viscous couplings that are designed to allow momentary differences in wheel speeds when the vehicle turns a corner or temporarily spins a tire. However, if the differentials or viscous couplings are forced to operate 100% of the time because of mismatched tires, they will experience excessive heat and unwarranted wear until they fail.

    This necessitates that four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles use tires that are very closely matched. This is because different diameter tires roll a different number of times each mile as a result of the variations in their circumferences. Tire diameter variations can be caused by accidentally using different sized tires, tires with different tread designs, tires made by different manufacturers, different inflation pressures or even tires worn to different tread depths.

    As an example of different tire diameters resulting from tires worn to different tread depths, we'll compare two 225/45R17-sized tires, a new tire with its original tread depth of 10/32-inch and a second tire worn to 8/32-inch of remaining tread depth. The new 225/45R17-sized tire has a calculated diameter of 24.97", a circumference of 78.44" and will roll 835 times each mile. The same tire worn to 8/32-inch of remaining tread depth is calculated to be 1/8" shorter with a diameter of 24.84", have a circumference of 78.04" and will roll 839 times per mile. While the difference of 1/8" in overall diameter doesn't seem excessive, the resulting 4 revolutions per mile difference can place a continuous strain on the tires and vehicle's driveline. Obviously, the greater the difference in the tires' circumferences, the greater the resulting strain.

    This makes maintaining the vehicle manufacturer's recommended tire inflation pressures and using "matched" tires on all wheel positions necessary procedures to reduce strain on the vehicle's driveline. Using "matched" tires means all four tires are the same brand, design and tread depth. Mixing tire brands, tread designs and tread depths may cause components in the vehicle's driveline to fail.

    Mismatched tires or using improper inflation pressures for all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles can also result in immediate drivability problems. Some Control Trac equipped vehicles in 4Auto mode may exhibit a shutter on acceleration and/or a noise from the front driveline and transfer case while driving. Some all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles may exhibit axle windup or binding while driving. Some four-wheel drive vehicles (manual or electronic shift) with a two-wheel drive mode may refuse to shift "on the fly" into 4x4 Auto or 4x4 High at highway speeds.

    Rotating Tires

    Because the front and rear tires of all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles perform different duties while accelerating, braking and cornering, tire rotation is important to even out, and maintain equivalent treadwear of all of the vehicle's tires to minimize potential driveline stresses.

    If the vehicle is equipped with a matching road wheel and full-sized spare tire, they should be integrated into the vehicle's rotation pattern at the first tire rotation. This will allow all five of the vehicle's tires to share in the workload and wear at similar rates. In the event that a single tire is damaged and has to be removed from service, this will allow the tread depth equivalent spare tire to be used with the remaining three tires.

    If the spare is not integrated into the vehicle's tire rotation pattern, it will not match the tread depth of the four worn tires on the ground when called into service. Additionally, if a single tire is replaced by the full size spare tire, hopefully the new replacement tire can remain as the spare tire until the other four tires have worn out and need to be replaced.

    Replacing Pairs of Tires or Individual Tires

    There are several suggestions that have been offered to drivers who are replacing pairs or individual tires on their four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles. Some vehicle manufacturers recommend that all tires maintain the same rolling radius and circumference, while others suggest that all tire circumferences remain within 1/4- to 1/2-inch of each other. Other vehicle manufacturers recommend that all four tires remain within 2/32-, 3/32- or 4/32-inch of each other, or within 30% of each other in relative remaining tread depth.

    Regardless of the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, the least stressful application is when all four tires are the same tire brand, tread design and equivalent tread depth.

    Before buying pairs or individual tires for all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles, drivers should read their vehicle's owners manual or contact the dealer's service department for confirmation of their specific vehicle's requirements.

    Matching Tires By Shaving Them to Maintain Equivalent Tire Tread Depths

    What does a driver do if one tire has to be removed from service when it and the other three tires have already worn to two-thirds to one-half of their original tread depth? Simply installing one new tire runs the risk of drivability problems or expensive driveline damage. Replacing the other three partially worn tires along with the damaged tire significantly increases the cost.

    Tire Rack can provide a solution by matching the tread depth of the replacement tire to the tread depth of the partially worn tires that will remain on the vehicle by removing tread rubber from a new tire on a specialized machine that operates as a tire lathe. While this may seem counterintuitive, the value of the mileage sacrificed by the one replacement tire is considerably less than the cost of rebuilding worn driveline components.

    Tire Rack has offered a tire shaving service that has been primarily used for preparing competition tires for racetrack use. This same service can also be used to remove tread rubber from new pairs or individual street tires used on four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles to allow them to match the remaining tread depth of the other partially worn tires that will remain on the vehicle. In addition to providing equivalent tread depth to eliminate driveline stress, shaved tires will also better match the traction and handling qualities of the remaining worn tires.

    While the cost of our street tire shaving service will range from $25 to $35 for each tire, it is significantly less than the cost of unnecessarily replacing the remaining two or three good tires with lots of mileage still available from them.

    Here are recommendations from some of the manufactures that Tire Rack currently serves for matching the tires used on their four-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles. Additional recommendations from other Original Equipment Vehicle Manufacturers is pending.

    Audi As published in their vehicle owner's manual, "rolling radius of all 4 tires must remain the same" or within 4/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth.
    Porsche Cayenne within 30% of the other tire on the same axle's remaining treadwear.
    Subaru Within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth.

    Then you can read some more here at the bottom of the page



    or here



    or here



    Not everybody lives off mommy and daddies trust fund money and dont want to or cant replace parts unnecessarilly or just get another car when they fuck one

    Leave a comment:


  • DoWant
    replied
    What are the wheels on the e36?

    Leave a comment:


  • Icana4dit
    replied
    Goddamn I need a set of those wheels, tell me if you ever wanna sell them!

    Leave a comment:


  • Capt. Obvious
    replied
    A few mm difference between tires won't cause any discernable vibration/grinding/popping/wear on your differentials. Do you really think tires wear perfectly even all around on cars? Give me a break and stop spreading unfactual information about AWD systems. It doesn't matter if it's torsen, viscous, Haldex, or some other variation; they are engineered to have rotational variation amongst the tires (torque/rotational differences is how they work in the first place).

    Find me ONE example of someone on any forum, anywhere, for any AWD car brand that has blown a diff from running staggered width wheels with properly matched tires.

    General rule of thumb for staggering tires on AWD cars is the keep the overall diameter within 3% from front to rear.

    With 18x10 and 18x12s I would recommend any of the following combinations:

    225/40 and 265/35 (.87%)

    235/40 and 265/35 (.4%)

    235/40 and 275/35 (.67%)

    Personally, I'd go with the 235/40 and 275/40 combo because 3000GTs are pretty big cars and deserve meaty tires.

    Also, that combo will give you the most symetrical stetch from front to rear so you don't have barely stretched tires in the front and super stretched tires in the rear.

    If you want to play with more tire size combos, I like this tire calculator:

    Leave a comment:


  • mshriver
    replied
    ^ good info.

    Automatic subaru's from the 90's and possibly newer all have a fuse holder under the hood that turns the car into FWD. Its supposed to be used if you have to use the spare tire on one of the rear wheels so you dont screw up your dif. Theres no traction control on those cars, but it was put in place by the manufacturer just in case a different diameter wheel (spare) was used. (Why they didnt just make room for a full size spare idk)

    Not as good of info as Zammo, but just some pre 2000 knowledge from an awd manufacturer

    Leave a comment:


  • ZammoTheChoppa
    replied
    Originally posted by PJ Prendergast View Post
    QUESTION:

    my friend ollie is helping me figure out tire sizes for the 18x10 and 18x12 wheels i wanna run: if i can find 4 used tires, i'd run 225/40 up front and 255/35 for the rears, which would have a 1.53mm rolling diameter difference. but since i'm broke i could get 265/35's for the back and have a 2.54mm rolling difference. if i wasn't still suspended from 3si i'd ask there but i'd get ripped apart anyways: my question is would either of these differences really destroy my VCU?
    From personal exp most post 2000 4WDs with traction control will have issues like stuttering and viberation from even a 1mm differance had it happen when changing a flat to the unused spare in the first couple months but it only really bad under heavy loads and cornering and excellerating hard from 70-80kmh very occasionally when doing full lock slow turns. now the first time in the audi we didnt know this we hit some small steel plate wich sliced the side wall there were no problems when we took it easy on the space saver spare. the prob didnt occur untill we bought 1new wheel and it took some time to work out the prob as it got progressivly worse and all the elecs tried to compensate for the non exsistant wheel spin the fix came in the form a a full new set of shoes had similar things happen on both porsche subaru and the australian ford territory i have heard that some newer cars can compensate for slight wheel size diff and cars without traction and or spin control shouldnt have a prob. its possible that older sustems wont detect it either because the sensors, sampling rate . and processing cant detect the smaller differeces.i dont know the 3000GT system other than the one i drove was pretty awesome if driven properly. you could try it out to test it, even if you dont notice anything it will still cause some premature wear and stress on all driveline components esp VCU


    tl;dr
    You need symetrical dia wheels unless your rich and you like replacing DL components
    Last edited by ZammoTheChoppa; 01-31-2012, 03:03 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • padraigmk3
    replied
    Hey dude, just checking out your build here.

    1) Ollie rules and I love his yellow sideways lemonbread-looking car



    2) It's best to just ignore the people who give you a hard time on the internet. Most forums take things too seriously and lose sight of the fact that modification is about freedom of expression and pushing the limits of performance, Not being some mister bossy-pants cunt swatch on an internet forum

    3) With the new wheels your cars going to look sick. Why is it you're so opposed to rolling fenders though?

    4) can we get some shots of the test fit wheels on the car from a distance? The pictures you uploaded are a tease haah

    Leave a comment:


  • Vito
    replied
    Ive always had a sweet spot for the 3000gt, nice ride. cant wait to see the finished pics !!

    Leave a comment:


  • PJ Prendergast
    replied
    ordered my adjustable spacers! the current tires i have on here are within my 5% (we think) so you guys may see some pics sooner than expected haha i also have my 3sx adjustable camber arms ordered already, so i'm hoping we can get this fitment dialed the next time i'm home
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • PJ Prendergast
    replied
    well i'm bad at math so i asked ollie, and he said way less haha looks might i may take the cheaper route till i camber-wear the crap outta these tires thanks for the input man!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jlyons617
    replied
    Whats the percent difference between the two? if its less than 5% than you're probably good.

    Leave a comment:


  • PJ Prendergast
    replied
    QUESTION:

    my friend ollie is helping me figure out tire sizes for the 18x10 and 18x12 wheels i wanna run: if i can find 4 used tires, i'd run 225/40 up front and 255/35 for the rears, which would have a 1.53mm rolling diameter difference. but since i'm broke i could get 265/35's for the back and have a 2.54mm rolling difference. if i wasn't still suspended from 3si i'd ask there but i'd get ripped apart anyways: my question is would either of these differences really destroy my VCU?

    Leave a comment:


  • laBeef
    replied
    I've had a similar thing happens on a different forum too.

    Leave a comment:


  • PJ Prendergast
    replied
    thanks man! i just gotta figure out what tires to run on the rear that won't be such a crazy stretch but match my fronts. i'll hopefully get some progress pics up within the next few weeks! i wanna order up everything i need and just get it on the ground all at once and have it finished

    Leave a comment:


  • Jlyons617
    replied
    you dont have to worry about the width as much as the height. The height difference if not within 6-10% (I believe) will cause the front wheels to spin differently from the rears. this changes the speed of the driveshafts which will engage the viscous differental all of the time which is not intended and the unit will fail very quickly. Here's a good link I read when I was looking at AWD's in school

    Syncro Westfalia technical, product,maitenance and restoration information, including photos and links to othersyncro resources on the web.

    Leave a comment:

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