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Speaking of helping out fellow bimmer-heads.... this guy is for sale a few miles south of me. The owner is moving out of state for a new job and needs it gone by next Tuesday. He's aksing that offers be made.
It is a '76 320 that was converted into a permanent convertible. It is NOT a convertible in which the top comes up or can be removed. The actual roof itself was removed, it is all custom.
The body is exceptionally clean, It is a manual 4 cyl, and it runs well.
If anyone is serious, I can go and grab this for someone... I may even myself!
I would give the guys at Turner Motorsports a call about brakes and other parts. They build all their own race cars and might need some help in the fabrication department...
And the first of the two mufflers for the Forester. They almost work to well...
And because they wont bronze naturally being at the rear of the car we took the torch to them. We were in a bit of a hurry tonight, so we'll re-brush them tomorrow and re-heat to get a much more consistent finish.
So here's where I'm at currently... adjusted the front end around a little bit to make fabrication a bit easier. The front rails have been trimmed down to 2" square vs. the 4" x 2" tubing from the previous design. The lower rail has also been pushed out to sit in line with the top A-arm support, keeping them square, and simplifying the fixturing needed (if at all).
If I leave the front as is, I'm limited to mounting locations for the lower A-arms pickup points, which puts them at equal length... not what I want. I'll probably end up pinching the bottom rails in putting the pickup points inboard a few inches. This will give the lower A-arm the additional length it needs, and still keep everything square.
Again, I always start out on the wild side and then bring it back down to earth where it'll have to actually be made:-)
I guess what I don't understand is if your making this full custom why not move the A arm mounting points up so the control arms are more level with the ground and still have the frame be low?
Originally posted by JC.
'Stance' doesn't have to be scraping your car along the floor, that is simply the scene that has caught on. As long as your car looks amazing (in your eyes) while your rolling down the street, that is your own personal perfect stance.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
I guess what I don't understand is if your making this full custom why not move the A arm mounting points up so the control arms are more level with the ground and still have the frame be low?
Most of it has to do with keeping the weight as low as possible. Also, if move the pickup points up, they need to be mounted on something, which means additional framework. The biggest reason for using the square and rectangur tubing at the base of the frame is having a solid flat fce in which to mount under trays to... Every at we've ever worked on we've had to make a lower "frame" in which to mount under trays to, which adds weight, etc. So, if I can pull double duty by having the frame act as the main structure, and support all ancillaries (suspension) then it's a win.
Most of it has to do with keeping the weight as low as possible. Also, if move the pickup points up, they need to be mounted on something, which means additional framework. The biggest reason for using the square and rectangular tubing at the base of the frame is having a solid flat fce in which to mount under trays to... Every at we've ever worked on we've had to make a lower "frame" in which to mount under trays to, which adds weight, etc. So, if I can pull double duty by having the frame act as the main structure, and support all ancillaries (suspension) then it's a win.
Gotcha! Not doubting you just always thought about that in daydreaming ridiculous projects over the years. cant wait for the next update!!!
(Oh and if you get a chance to look at that thread I sent you in the PM that would be AWESOME, if not keep up the amazing work! I know you have about as many projects as me :P)
Originally posted by JC.
'Stance' doesn't have to be scraping your car along the floor, that is simply the scene that has caught on. As long as your car looks amazing (in your eyes) while your rolling down the street, that is your own personal perfect stance.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Woah! I don't know where your lower control arms will sit, but looking at that picture has me thinking your Kingpin Inclination is going to end up on the outer sidewall! I'm hoping that's the CAD playing visual tricks on me. If it is, in fact, correct, and your K.I. is proper, you're not going to much range of motion in those upper spherical bearings.
Gotcha! Not doubting you just always thought about that in daydreaming ridiculous projects over the years. cant wait for the next update!!!
(Oh and if you get a chance to look at that thread I sent you in the PM that would be AWESOME, if not keep up the amazing work! I know you have about as many projects as me :P)
I completely missed your pm, I'll respond tomorrow when I have a minute to sit down at the computer!
Woah! I don't know where your lower control arms will sit, but looking at that picture has me thinking your Kingpin Inclination is going to end up on the outer sidewall! I'm hoping that's the CAD playing visual tricks on me. If it is, in fact, correct, and your K.I. is proper, you're not going to much range of motion in those upper spherical bearings.
You are correct! The A-arm in the model is actually just in there for reference, it's much too long for actual use. The correct length will be figured out once I have the brakes, and front uprights set. Ideally I'll have a KI which will put the scrub radius around an inch, or slightly less.
A few more screen shots showing the front frame and suspension layout a bit more finalized. The bottom A-arm has been moved inboard and the last photo shows the current KI. Again, this isn't final... both A-arms will be shortened up a bit depending on the brake hat and uprights. The top one slightly more so than the bottom.
I'm starting to appreciate the amount of time it's been taking to figure some areas out... anything I can revise to make better/stronger/lighter/simpler is well worth it. Had I dove right into chopping apart material, I'd be left with who knows how many waster hours and a pile of useless tubing. The extra time put into the model will allow the actual construction of the frame to go together like cake.
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