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Chariot of the Damned, Supra

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  • DragginWagon
    replied
    ok for real, i am coming up there and were getting this fucker going!
    seriously. get ahold of me mufucker, its been too long.

    Leave a comment:


  • Snowdaze
    replied
    I just read through all of this and two days and I'm excited for the 2jz. Btw this inspired me to keep thinking about buying a mk3 for my first car

    Leave a comment:


  • Freddie0288
    replied
    Moooooore!!
    💥😄💥

    Leave a comment:


  • Queef|Chief
    replied
    This build is sex!! LOVE this thing. Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming

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  • Bildick
    replied
    hell yeah man... i love just reading through this build it makes me laugh everytime

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  • BrandonMcKiernan
    replied
    Originally posted by padraigmk3 View Post
    See? I get smarter every day thanks to the internet haha






    thanks guys, next up is ripping out the 7M


    updatess...

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  • hackrtanman
    replied


    I am in love. I may have skipped over, but how much power do you hope to get? Think I may have missed that.

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  • zr71
    replied
    Lets talk power shall we?

    6466, 1.0 a/r divided with the 3 5/8" vband, SP qsv, jet coat EVERYTHING THAT GETS HOT, 4" intercooler. GSC Stage 3 cams for that ESSENTIAL LOPEY IDLE (no car is actually evil if it doesn't have a gnarly idle). ATI damper pulley, dry-sump, l19 head studs, titan billet mains, main studs, carillo rods, custom 10-1 pistons, a1000 fuel pump, fuel sump, -10 feed -6 return, 1000cc injectors, AEM Infinity, AEM water injection system, (I prefer prosport halo gauges personally), ditch that silly r154 (because we know it's going to pop oil seals and crap anyway) for a cd009 from a 350z, and then you'll almost be there.

    No but real talk.

    If you are serious about making/using real power, the crazy camber's got to go. You'll need traction.
    And also I really recommend picking your end goal for RPM now/what head work you want done before you get the bish running. Installing cams you're going to need to set your valve lash, and usually you'll have a machine shop cut the valve ends to fit. This can cost you and would also be the right time to machine the head flat, do any porting etc and make sure you head is done correctly before you buy the turbo. It is easier to save up get a turbo, and just bolt it on down the line when the car is running, than pull the manifolds off, take the head to the shop and wait for them to do it then.
    My 2c.

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  • aLaFleur
    replied
    Originally posted by 180roman View Post
    Thats 1 Pady power. What is that equivalent in horses?
    400 dead horses

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  • 180roman
    replied
    Originally posted by padraigmk3 View Post
    Thats 1 Pady power. What is that equivalent in horses?

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  • TrunkStyle
    replied
    I've been following this thread sense the week it started, it never occurred to me to post in it. I never want ti to end, It's too god damn good!

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  • Kioes
    replied
    So, Due to the fact work is getting done.
    Im going to leave this here,
    It may reduce work temporarily though...

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  • MWyeS
    replied


    All I wanted was for Satan Claus to bring me some updates

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  • scott.k
    replied
    just wondering, did you calculate the new width and offset of the miesters? I just did the same rebareling type of thing that you did and your wheels seem to fit under the z flares really well

    thanks for the help
    looking forward to updates
    -scott

    Leave a comment:


  • Itsahyundai
    replied
    Why the FUCK haven't there been any updates/

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