Electrical Fire in the near future?

[Jfitz]

Alright, some of you guys are some of the most ingenious people I've seen on the internet. The rest of you are sketchy enough to probably also be of help here.

My seats are wearing out. I've got one electric for the driver's side and one manual for the other. I've been thinking though, why cram my fatass into a Recaro or Sparco seat when I can see about finding some comfortable yet nice seats from say, a BMW or Mercedes?

Now I forsee some obstacles.

1. Measure to ensure whatever seats I find, fit. Not a big deal, I can do that and even fudge a bit.

2. I doubt I'll find nice fully adjustable seats that are manual. Which means I'm gonna need at least one electric seat.

BUT - here's the question. I've already got power run to the original seat, right? So, Can I just strip and connect power and ground from the new seat's harness and it work? What am I missing because I feel like it can't be that easy.

Any help would be appreciated guys.

[Expire]

You could test the wires and see what kind of power they put out to the original seat, then find a seat that takes the same power?

or, get a non electric sports seat and cap those wires so they can't ground out or spark off the seat rail.

(not an electrician though, I'll ask my roommate when I get home from work).

[Jfitz]

I suppose I could check what fuse runs that and what it is rated at. Then look up the fuse diagram on whatever car I get the seat from...

I wish I was more electrically inclined... (seat pun intended)

[Expire]

Don't you mean electrically reclined?
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[Jfitz]

[Expire]

I'll be leaving work within the next half hour so i should have a more educated answer for you soon.

Roommate says:

You need to find out what kind of power went to the original seat (volts and amps)
As long as it's not more volts, then there shouldn't be an issue with the new seat working.
If the original voltage is less, it may work, but it might move slower. If it's more volts, and is too much, it will most likely blow a fuse or destroy the chair motor.

[Jfitz]

Hm. I wonder if I could change the fuse to prevent that. Guess it depends on what else is on that fuse. Like, fuel pump or something.

[DER E30]

What car?

[Jfitz]

2006 Mustang GT convertible

[DER E30]

2006 Mustang GT convertible

Yup, electrical fire Its gonna explode into flames the first wire you cut!






















Actually probably not.
Most seats probably run on 12v so you'd have to do some wiring diagram homework but it'll probably work.

[Jfitz]

See, that's what I'm thinking. As long as there isn't some proprietary controller that manages what does what on the seat then I'm thinking with some google-fu and a voltmeter I can rig something up.

Do you guys think that I'd have better chances if I stay domestic? Like try to get some seats from a Taurus or something? I'd think I'd have better luck finding a *nice* seat at a good price from a Benz or an Audi.

[DER E30]

I'd look up your wiring diagram, should be easy to see if there's controlling box. Does the seat have memory function or anything?

I'd then look at all the kind of seat you like and then pull a diagram for that car as well.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

'90s Mercedes seats are all 12VDC, but you'll want ones from cars that don't have seat memory. On cars with memory, all the functions are run through the memory controller, and that's a whole can of worms.

[Jfitz]

My car doesn't have memory.

Sam, how do I tell which ones have memory? Is it just an option or a year model they started in or what?

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Memory setups will have a green button and a #1 and #2 button on the seat controls on the driver's door panel. Earlier and lower-optioned models will be more likely to have power seats without memory. 190s would probably where I would look first.