5x114->5x120???

[schmittz]

I bought a set of vette wheels for dirt cheap, seller told me they were re-barreled, but me being the dumbass that I am didn't actually test fit them! So now I need to get adapters (no rebarrel) I'm doing this all on somewhat of a budget.... I'm not to familiar with the math for the fitment, but I know I'll need adapters at least 1.5" thick or more, stock offset on my car is +45 I believe.... Help!!!

[Sabertooth]

Those look pretty nice! The bolt pattern on those is 5x120.65 which isn't too far off from BMW 5x120 but for me it counts. So you'd need adapters from 5x114.3 to 5x120.65 which are pretty popular to see for sale. If they are 8.5 they should be ET32 and the 9.5 should be ET38 (IIRC)

[schmittz]

Those look pretty nice! The bolt pattern on those is 5x120.65 which isn't too far off from BMW 5x120 but for me it counts. So you'd need adapters from 5x114.3 to 5x120.65 which are pretty popular to see for sale. If they are 8.5 they should be ET32 and the 9.5 should be ET38 (IIRC)

If by 8.5 you're referring to width, then yeah, they're around 8.5" wide, the one wheel is pretty messed up so I'm gonna paint them gunmetal..

What kind of measurements should I take as far as fitment is concerned??

[Sabertooth]

Try and use this site if you haven't before. It helped me with my wheel calculations.

http://www.willtheyfit.com/

I would try and use what wheels you had on before and compare the two to see how much of an adapter you'd need. Since they are all 8.5" Wide you've got ET32 on all wheels. So if your stock wheels were around 45, these should stick out a bit more. Try and test fit them also so you can get an idea.

[Daviticus]

This is the method I've used in conjunction with WTF (hah) to figure out adapter sizes, diameters, clearance, etc. for several projects and builds:

-Get all the specs of your OEM wheels or whatever wheels your car currently has,
-Input that info to WTF's 'Existing' info boxes.
-Get all the specs of the new wheels you plan to use,
-If changing bolt patterns, take into account the thickness of the adapter required,
*[If you're unsure, start with 25mm, you have a bit of wiggle room in both directions depending on the adapter company]
-Then plug that information into the 'New' info boxes, and calculate.
-Measure the distance from the outside edge of the wheel currently on your car to the fender lip or where you want the new wheels to sit, and write that number down,
*[Give yourself between 10-15mm of wiggle room here as well - since WTF uses millimeters, if you measure in inches just be sure to multiply that by 25.4 to get millimeters]
-Look at the number information below the graphic and get the 'Poke' numbers,
-Subtract the 'Old' number from the 'New' number,
-Compare that number with the measurement you wrote down from the fender,
-If they match, they'll fit perfectly;
--If the Fender number you wrote down is larger than the calculated number, you need to add adapter thickness to bring the wheels out;
--If the Fender number you wrote down is smaller than the calculated number, you need to reduce the adapter thickness to bring the wheels in.

I'll use my Volvo as an example for you.

Front Fender measurements are between 2 to 2.5" [50.8 to 63.5mm, rounded to 50-60mm]
Rear Fender measurements are between 2.5 to 3" [63.5 to 76.2mm, rounded to 60-75mm]
OEM wheels on my car are 14x5.5" +20mm, with 185/70-14 tires [tire measurement doesn't matter if you're just sizing wheels]
The wheels I want to run are 15x6.5" +9, but are a different bolt pattern [5x114.3, versus my car's 5x108], so for example's sake I'll use a 25mm adapter. You need to subtract the adapter size from the wheel's offset - in my case, a +9 with a 25mm adapter comes out to -16mm offset.

So for the info:

Existing = 14x5.5 +20 185/70-14
New = 15x6.5 -16 225/45-15

Once calculated, the Poke numbers come to:

Existing = 49.9
New = 73.6

Subtracting the New number from the Existing number gets me 23.7mm, which is WELL within my 50-60mm clearance, so my wheels will be sunk compared to the fender. That's okay for me, since the tire size is larger than the wheel width so the tires will bulge [that's what I want] and that gap allows them clearance so they don't rub. In fact I could probably run a 35 or 40mm adapter and still be inside the stock fender unrolled.

That was probably pretty hard to follow, and confused the hell out of you. Too much RedBull this morning.

[schmittz]

This is the method I've used in conjunction with WTF (hah) to figure out adapter sizes, diameters, clearance, etc. for several projects and builds:

-Get all the specs of your OEM wheels or whatever wheels your car currently has,
-Input that info to WTF's 'Existing' info boxes.
-Get all the specs of the new wheels you plan to use,
-If changing bolt patterns, take into account the thickness of the adapter required,
*[If you're unsure, start with 25mm, you have a bit of wiggle room in both directions depending on the adapter company]
-Then plug that information into the 'New' info boxes, and calculate.
-Measure the distance from the outside edge of the wheel currently on your car to the fender lip or where you want the new wheels to sit, and write that number down,
*[Give yourself between 10-15mm of wiggle room here as well - since WTF uses millimeters, if you measure in inches just be sure to multiply that by 25.4 to get millimeters]
-Look at the number information below the graphic and get the 'Poke' numbers,
-Subtract the 'Old' number from the 'New' number,
-Compare that number with the measurement you wrote down from the fender,
-If they match, they'll fit perfectly;
--If the Fender number you wrote down is larger than the calculated number, you need to add adapter thickness to bring the wheels out;
--If the Fender number you wrote down is smaller than the calculated number, you need to reduce the adapter thickness to bring the wheels in.

I'll use my Volvo as an example for you.

Front Fender measurements are between 2 to 2.5" [50.8 to 63.5mm, rounded to 50-60mm]
Rear Fender measurements are between 2.5 to 3" [63.5 to 76.2mm, rounded to 60-75mm]
OEM wheels on my car are 14x5.5" +20mm, with 185/70-14 tires [tire measurement doesn't matter if you're just sizing wheels]
The wheels I want to run are 15x6.5" +9, but are a different bolt pattern [5x114.3, versus my car's 5x108], so for example's sake I'll use a 25mm adapter. You need to subtract the adapter size from the wheel's offset - in my case, a +9 with a 25mm adapter comes out to -16mm offset.

So for the info:

Existing = 14x5.5 +20 185/70-14
New = 15x6.5 -16 225/45-15

Once calculated, the Poke numbers come to:

Existing = 49.9
New = 73.6

Subtracting the New number from the Existing number gets me 23.7mm, which is WELL within my 50-60mm clearance, so my wheels will be sunk compared to the fender. That's okay for me, since the tire size is larger than the wheel width so the tires will bulge [that's what I want] and that gap allows them clearance so they don't rub. In fact I could probably run a 35 or 40mm adapter and still be inside the stock fender unrolled.

That was probably pretty hard to follow, and confused the hell out of you. Too much RedBull this morning.

Ahhhh man!!! This is what I was looking for, not just a formula, but an explanation too, thanks man!!