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Sheet metal fender rolling

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  • Sheet metal fender rolling

    I've been working on a 65 mustang and plan to lower it. To keep the fenders from rubbing I was going to roll them but I don't have a proper tool and was wondering before I buy one will they work on thicker sheet metal? Also are the lips needed for rigidity or could they simply be cut off?

  • #2
    Originally posted by Huffy View Post
    I've been working on a 65 mustang and plan to lower it. To keep the fenders from rubbing I was going to roll them but I don't have a proper tool and was wondering before I buy one will they work on thicker sheet metal? Also are the lips needed for rigidity or could they simply be cut off?
    I would probably keep the lip on... How thick is the metal? Eastwood rollers have rolled some thick stuff lol.

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    • #3
      Depending on how low the car is, Powered by Max also sells a fender roller that is adjustable for lowered cars- with the roller at a 90 deg angle it measures 11" (from middle of roller to the end of the arm portion, which is basically the middle of the hub when mounted) and then extends out to about 15.5" (measuring from same points). Keep in mind to that when the car is raised and the wheel is off the suspension will "droop".

      As far as the thick fender lips- how thick are they? Heat from a heat gun- to the point it is too hot to touch (without burning or bubbling paint) all around the fender arch and heating the outside, middle, inside, then middle of the fender lip will help soften the metal (and not letting the fender cool while working on it).

      I rolled the fenders in a Nissan s14 and the rears were pretty thick compared to the front. The rears had the outer sheet metal welded to the inner wheel sheet metal. I mainly just used the roller to smooth out the lip too and make the transition from the top arch to the unrolled portion near the bottoms of the wheel well; I used a "non-marring" mallet to start the angle up in the center of the fender and then extended it out with the roller.
      Last edited by cleantune; 12-19-2012, 12:11 PM.
      "well...I'd agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong" -unknown
      instagram:@cleantune ; Twitter: Cleantune@Cleantune2

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      • #4
        Good call on the mallet, yeah I'd say keep the lip, start the roll with a mallet, roll em (while continuing to heat every once in a while if needed, just be careful with your paint), and finish it up with the fender finishing pliers.

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        • #5
          I've done a fair few older Mustangs over the years. a fender roller will work just fine if the metal is good ( no prior metal and/or bondo repair ) a hammer and dolly works well also.

          shaving the fenderlip also works as long as you dont remove too much, you dont want to seperate the inner and outer fender skin.
          Yeah, i'm that guy you've heard about that rolls and pulls fenders in SoCal , hit me up .

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          • #6
            yeah,i think so, you dont want to seperate the inner and outer fender skin.thank you

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