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It’s time to move on to something else. This car has been very well maintained and I have receipts to document all the work done. Car has a clean California title in hand. This is an automatic with the CVT, NOT QUATTRO. I bought it in 2011 with 49k, current sits at 89k and is a daily so will go up. Below is a summary of the work done:
Exterior:
Quartz silver paint in great condition. Washed weekly, waxed monthly. Small scratch on roof from bike pedal I never fixed and two small paint chips on rear bumper from some idiot driver. Normal small chips on front bumper for a nearly 10 year old car. Overall it still shines like new.
OEM Bi-Xenon headlight retrofit with Kufatec harness
Cupra R Lip
15% tint all around.
I have an OEM roof rack that I will throw in, Yakima fairing and one bike tray included.
Wheels/Suspension:
18x8.5/18x10 Artec Edition L with 205/40/18 Yokohama S drives 80% up front, 215/40/18 in the rear with 90%. Triple step lips, brown metallic centers. Wheels are 2 piece and very hard to come by.
Airlift performance front struts and bags. Airlift performance rear bags and shocks. 5 gallon tank in the trunk with Viar 380c compressor and hard lines on custom trunk floor. V2 managment. I have the OEM trunk floor cover. Front strut bushings are custom made by a machine shop in NJ, I ordered these from a guy on Audizine to replace the Airlift ones that fail. These have been on for 5k miles with no issues and will outlast the new Airlift versions. Air installed at 72k.
I have the OEM stock suspension and spare tire that’s included along with whatever spare Airlift stuff laying around (fittings, line etc…)
Drilled/Slotted rotors and pads installed at 75k.
Interior:
Black Leather in excellent condition.
VDO boost gauge on pod.
OEM RNSE with Nav. This was a retrofit, car had the Symphony 2. Screen has some blemishes but do not affect the quality or function. This unit works without any issues. No Bluetooth since it’s a retrofit and I never got around to that part. Sat radio installed and all I use.
Rear passenger door speaker has a tear, not even sure how that happened. Does not affect the speaker at all.
OEM all weather floor mats. Have original carpet ones.
Engine:
APR Stage 1 tune, 91 file only. Done at 83K.
Muffler delete, straight pipes from resonator back. Not loud at all, clean drone sound.
Stock intake installed, I have an AEM one included in the sale.
GFB DV installed at 78k
ECS billet oil filter cap. Have OEM plastic one and tool to drain OEM one that I will include.
Maintenance Done: All work done by Audi San Diego or Pure Motorsport with receipts.
Timing Belt/Water Pump/Thermostat/Serp Belt done at 82k.
Oil filter housing replaced with all gaskets at 85k.
Cam Follower changed at 82k.
Crank Position Sensor changed at 88k.
N80 replaced at 80k.
N75 replaced at 87K.
Rear Coolant Flange/Sensor replaced at 89k.
Upper radiator hose replaced at 88k, have additional spare.
Engine mounts replaced at 75k.
Valve cover gasket replaced at 75k.
NGK R plugs and new coil packs at 75k.
Rear camshaft cover/chain replaced under warranty at 72k.
Oil always changed at 5k with 5w-40 and OEM filter.
Transmission Control Module (Computer) replaced under warranty by previous owner at 45k.
No issues with Auto tranny, no codes, nothing. Shifts smooth.
No leaks of any sort, anywhere on the motor.
Camshaft position sensor replaced at 89k.
The car has never left me stranded and I have been on top of all maintenance as you can tell. I have maintained this thing very well for the past 5 years, I average 10k a year on the motor. Tags good till Jan 2017 and passes smog with no problems.
The Bad:
Driver window switch is sticky, doesn’t affect the windows operation but when you pull up it sticks. All I do is tap it back down and good to go. This is just the driver window, all other switches are fine. This just started acting up recently.
This only other issue happens randomly and not that often but its there. When the car starts up and I drive a short distance then shut it off, the next startup takes a few seconds followed by the EPC light and rough idle. If I shut it off then try and start again it fires up without issues. If it doesn’t I disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 min and its all good to go. No CEL/EPC light and drives without issues after battery disconnect real quick. I’ve scanned it every time this occurs and always shows N80/N75 which I have replaced. Not sure what causes this and I cant seem to track it down, again this is a freak occurrence. The car runs and drives fine otherwise. It seems to happen when the engine is not at operating temp but still cool. Maybe its something stupid but I know how to get around it so its never bothered me enough to really dig into it.
That’s pretty much everything I can think of, I can answer any questions as needed. The 2 issues I have disclosed are made known so there is a complete understanding. I have no concerns driving this car.
I am looking for 9k OBO, NO TRADES! Based on wheels value/Air/ all maintenance done, I feel this is more than a fair price. Car is located in San Diego. Here are the pics:
Exterior:
Quartz silver paint in great condition. Washed weekly, waxed monthly. Small scratch on roof from bike pedal I never fixed and two small paint chips on rear bumper from some idiot driver. Normal small chips on front bumper for a nearly 10 year old car. Overall it still shines like new.
OEM Bi-Xenon headlight retrofit with Kufatec harness
Cupra R Lip
15% tint all around.
I have an OEM roof rack that I will throw in, Yakima fairing and one bike tray included.
Wheels/Suspension:
18x8.5/18x10 Artec Edition L with 205/40/18 Yokohama S drives 80% up front, 215/40/18 in the rear with 90%. Triple step lips, brown metallic centers. Wheels are 2 piece and very hard to come by.
Airlift performance front struts and bags. Airlift performance rear bags and shocks. 5 gallon tank in the trunk with Viar 380c compressor and hard lines on custom trunk floor. V2 managment. I have the OEM trunk floor cover. Front strut bushings are custom made by a machine shop in NJ, I ordered these from a guy on Audizine to replace the Airlift ones that fail. These have been on for 5k miles with no issues and will outlast the new Airlift versions. Air installed at 72k.
I have the OEM stock suspension and spare tire that’s included along with whatever spare Airlift stuff laying around (fittings, line etc…)
Drilled/Slotted rotors and pads installed at 75k.
Interior:
Black Leather in excellent condition.
VDO boost gauge on pod.
OEM RNSE with Nav. This was a retrofit, car had the Symphony 2. Screen has some blemishes but do not affect the quality or function. This unit works without any issues. No Bluetooth since it’s a retrofit and I never got around to that part. Sat radio installed and all I use.
Rear passenger door speaker has a tear, not even sure how that happened. Does not affect the speaker at all.
OEM all weather floor mats. Have original carpet ones.
Engine:
APR Stage 1 tune, 91 file only. Done at 83K.
Muffler delete, straight pipes from resonator back. Not loud at all, clean drone sound.
Stock intake installed, I have an AEM one included in the sale.
GFB DV installed at 78k
ECS billet oil filter cap. Have OEM plastic one and tool to drain OEM one that I will include.
Maintenance Done: All work done by Audi San Diego or Pure Motorsport with receipts.
Timing Belt/Water Pump/Thermostat/Serp Belt done at 82k.
Oil filter housing replaced with all gaskets at 85k.
Cam Follower changed at 82k.
Crank Position Sensor changed at 88k.
N80 replaced at 80k.
N75 replaced at 87K.
Rear Coolant Flange/Sensor replaced at 89k.
Upper radiator hose replaced at 88k, have additional spare.
Engine mounts replaced at 75k.
Valve cover gasket replaced at 75k.
NGK R plugs and new coil packs at 75k.
Rear camshaft cover/chain replaced under warranty at 72k.
Oil always changed at 5k with 5w-40 and OEM filter.
Transmission Control Module (Computer) replaced under warranty by previous owner at 45k.
No issues with Auto tranny, no codes, nothing. Shifts smooth.
No leaks of any sort, anywhere on the motor.
Camshaft position sensor replaced at 89k.
The car has never left me stranded and I have been on top of all maintenance as you can tell. I have maintained this thing very well for the past 5 years, I average 10k a year on the motor. Tags good till Jan 2017 and passes smog with no problems.
The Bad:
Driver window switch is sticky, doesn’t affect the windows operation but when you pull up it sticks. All I do is tap it back down and good to go. This is just the driver window, all other switches are fine. This just started acting up recently.
This only other issue happens randomly and not that often but its there. When the car starts up and I drive a short distance then shut it off, the next startup takes a few seconds followed by the EPC light and rough idle. If I shut it off then try and start again it fires up without issues. If it doesn’t I disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 min and its all good to go. No CEL/EPC light and drives without issues after battery disconnect real quick. I’ve scanned it every time this occurs and always shows N80/N75 which I have replaced. Not sure what causes this and I cant seem to track it down, again this is a freak occurrence. The car runs and drives fine otherwise. It seems to happen when the engine is not at operating temp but still cool. Maybe its something stupid but I know how to get around it so its never bothered me enough to really dig into it.
That’s pretty much everything I can think of, I can answer any questions as needed. The 2 issues I have disclosed are made known so there is a complete understanding. I have no concerns driving this car.
I am looking for 9k OBO, NO TRADES! Based on wheels value/Air/ all maintenance done, I feel this is more than a fair price. Car is located in San Diego. Here are the pics:
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