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email is best for communication: jnaarnold@northstate.net or phone: 336.465.6029
This is my first post here but ebay(jnaarnold) and bimmerforums(under same username) have reputable feedback.
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Shipping: Buyer pays for...
$$7200.00 OBO or trade...
trade for:
'90-'93 Mustang LX 5.0 (prefer trunk model)
Prefer to Sell, but will trade whats listed below...
-1988 to 1993 Foxbody (LX only) Mustang 5.0--(I will trade up or down for the right car..I really want to get back into a Fox body 5.0 LX)
-unique muscle car, but must be in equally nice condition as my BMW
-please, nothing else at this time.
With that being said, this is one of the most mechanically sound cars I have ever owned. I would not hesitate to get in this car and drive to Florida.
It gets equally as good gas mileage as my 2001 Ford Taurus.
I had planned on getting a piggyback ecu and really unlocking the cars true potential, and then going single turbo. With those additions alone over 550 hp at the rear wheels can be had!
OK, Up for sale/trade is a 1995 Cosmos Metallic Black BMW M3. I will work from the outside, to the inside, to the mechanics.
-BODY is in really good shape, compared to the age. There is no rust or holes anywhere. There is one bad spot on the passenger side rear quarter. It can be fixed with minimal work and really is not extremely noticeable. Looks as if someone ran in to the car with a shopping cart. The drivers door moulding is missing, just need to order one, i have not taken the time to do so.The sides of the car really have no dings whatsoever and gleam as if new. The hood has two small reverse dings...like something was under the hood when closed, maybe a strut tower brace of some sort. The hood(at the leading edge) and front bumper cover and grille surround have the normal small chips in the paint and are scarcely visible from 10 feet. The rear bumper is nearly flawless as is the roof and sunroof. All pillars show nicely too. The trunk has some paint sketching, not sure what caused it. I have been told for around four to five hundred I could get the body/paint work right. Again, I have taken this into consideration when pricing the car.
-INTERIOR is also in really nice shape. the only bad spot is the drivers seat, with a rather large split. The passenger seat has a very small, maybe one inch split, that is barely noticeable. The rear seat is complete, with only minor wear. The rear seat belt upper plastic trim on the drivers side is broken. The headliner does NOT sag and has no rips or tears, almost perfect for the age. the c pillars are great. All interior lights, including vanity and c pillars, function as should. The carpet is in great shape with no tears and is not faded. has original ///M mats. Rear package shelf material is however faded, but complete with out any blemishes and could simply be dyed. The windows had two layers of tint, which has been removed, however, some areas were very hard to get to and some very, very small pieces remain...less than the size of a head of a nail. The dash is not cracked or faded, and everything outside of the information center is there. Where the information center is, there is a trio of gauges; boost, water temp and air/fuel ratio. Only the air/fuel gauge is none functioning..it is missing a cable. The steering wheel ///M cover is split and has been cut back for aesthetics. Instrument panel is in great shape. Because of the swap, the coolant gauge in the dash is non functional. The fuel, mileage, tach and speedo all work correctly, as do the lights. Pedals are complete and original, and look great. Shift knob and surround is there, however, not original(it is from a Supra). All exterior lights work as should, as does the horn. *Added: the steering wheel is off slightly, however the car does not pull or drift in any direction. this maybe from the swap, and should be an easy fix.
-MECHANICAL Toyota Supra twin turbo engine. I currently have about 1000 miles on this engine, without a hiccup. It starts and idles perfectly every time, doesn't hunt or search for an idle...just purrs. Water temp has never gone over 200 F, with temps normally around 160-180F on an 85 degree day. It does not smoke or leak a drop of oil or any fluid for that matter. The transmission functions smoothly without any grinding or hardness of shifting, or noises. The same can be said for the rear limited slip differential. The rear axles are new. There is some play in the front control arm bushings, I know this because they rattle when going over bumps. The sway bar links should also be replaced as they rattle also. The car corners like it is on rails and is tight as it should be. Again, this car is tight, it does not sway. On the straights, it hooks and goes. It has the factory alignment setting, which, for occasional street use is fine. It does have air shocks in the rear with 6" shock mounts to help clear the rear tires. For daily driving I would change to a less aggressive setup to aid in tire tread longevity. The vehicle needs hood supports. The exhaust is 3". There is no muffler and it sounds like it. Turbos need air, and they need to be able to move it out as quick as they move it in, and this car does just that. Coupled with a great front mounted inter-cooler, these two items offer the biggest performance gains on this car. The engine is stock, from top to bottom. I have a BUNCH of spares, from turbos to cams, to a head to belts, hoses, a/c compressor, valve covers..etc. Tires are great, just shy of new...rears are 255 Nexxen 3000's, front 215's...rears on 10" XXR wheels, front on 8.5's. Battery is one month old. Because of no muffler, the car will be sold as is. It will be up to you to get it "street legal".
I tried to be as thorough as possible, but it is likely I might have missed something along the way. If that's the case I will edit the ad to reflect such. I think I have been very fair with the pricing, with the amount of work that's been done and the work that needs to be done, taken into consideration. I am not going to budge much on the price, so be forewarned.
Things needed are mostly cosmetic...like mouldings and touch up paint. I have gone back and forth about finishing the car, but am really looking to get into something else.
These E36 ///M3's are truly an investment. With a little bit of money, you could have a great return.
I will be making a video sometime this weekend that details the entire car.
AGAIN, trades:
**1990 to 1993 Mustang LX ( prefer trunk model) 5.0
**interesting muscle cars
**please, no tuner cars
**partial trades of high end toys that go boom
This is my first post here but ebay(jnaarnold) and bimmerforums(under same username) have reputable feedback.
Location: Greensboro, North Carolina
Shipping: Buyer pays for...
$$7200.00 OBO or trade...
trade for:
'90-'93 Mustang LX 5.0 (prefer trunk model)
Prefer to Sell, but will trade whats listed below...
-1988 to 1993 Foxbody (LX only) Mustang 5.0--(I will trade up or down for the right car..I really want to get back into a Fox body 5.0 LX)
-unique muscle car, but must be in equally nice condition as my BMW
-please, nothing else at this time.
With that being said, this is one of the most mechanically sound cars I have ever owned. I would not hesitate to get in this car and drive to Florida.
It gets equally as good gas mileage as my 2001 Ford Taurus.
I had planned on getting a piggyback ecu and really unlocking the cars true potential, and then going single turbo. With those additions alone over 550 hp at the rear wheels can be had!
OK, Up for sale/trade is a 1995 Cosmos Metallic Black BMW M3. I will work from the outside, to the inside, to the mechanics.
-BODY is in really good shape, compared to the age. There is no rust or holes anywhere. There is one bad spot on the passenger side rear quarter. It can be fixed with minimal work and really is not extremely noticeable. Looks as if someone ran in to the car with a shopping cart. The drivers door moulding is missing, just need to order one, i have not taken the time to do so.The sides of the car really have no dings whatsoever and gleam as if new. The hood has two small reverse dings...like something was under the hood when closed, maybe a strut tower brace of some sort. The hood(at the leading edge) and front bumper cover and grille surround have the normal small chips in the paint and are scarcely visible from 10 feet. The rear bumper is nearly flawless as is the roof and sunroof. All pillars show nicely too. The trunk has some paint sketching, not sure what caused it. I have been told for around four to five hundred I could get the body/paint work right. Again, I have taken this into consideration when pricing the car.
-INTERIOR is also in really nice shape. the only bad spot is the drivers seat, with a rather large split. The passenger seat has a very small, maybe one inch split, that is barely noticeable. The rear seat is complete, with only minor wear. The rear seat belt upper plastic trim on the drivers side is broken. The headliner does NOT sag and has no rips or tears, almost perfect for the age. the c pillars are great. All interior lights, including vanity and c pillars, function as should. The carpet is in great shape with no tears and is not faded. has original ///M mats. Rear package shelf material is however faded, but complete with out any blemishes and could simply be dyed. The windows had two layers of tint, which has been removed, however, some areas were very hard to get to and some very, very small pieces remain...less than the size of a head of a nail. The dash is not cracked or faded, and everything outside of the information center is there. Where the information center is, there is a trio of gauges; boost, water temp and air/fuel ratio. Only the air/fuel gauge is none functioning..it is missing a cable. The steering wheel ///M cover is split and has been cut back for aesthetics. Instrument panel is in great shape. Because of the swap, the coolant gauge in the dash is non functional. The fuel, mileage, tach and speedo all work correctly, as do the lights. Pedals are complete and original, and look great. Shift knob and surround is there, however, not original(it is from a Supra). All exterior lights work as should, as does the horn. *Added: the steering wheel is off slightly, however the car does not pull or drift in any direction. this maybe from the swap, and should be an easy fix.
-MECHANICAL Toyota Supra twin turbo engine. I currently have about 1000 miles on this engine, without a hiccup. It starts and idles perfectly every time, doesn't hunt or search for an idle...just purrs. Water temp has never gone over 200 F, with temps normally around 160-180F on an 85 degree day. It does not smoke or leak a drop of oil or any fluid for that matter. The transmission functions smoothly without any grinding or hardness of shifting, or noises. The same can be said for the rear limited slip differential. The rear axles are new. There is some play in the front control arm bushings, I know this because they rattle when going over bumps. The sway bar links should also be replaced as they rattle also. The car corners like it is on rails and is tight as it should be. Again, this car is tight, it does not sway. On the straights, it hooks and goes. It has the factory alignment setting, which, for occasional street use is fine. It does have air shocks in the rear with 6" shock mounts to help clear the rear tires. For daily driving I would change to a less aggressive setup to aid in tire tread longevity. The vehicle needs hood supports. The exhaust is 3". There is no muffler and it sounds like it. Turbos need air, and they need to be able to move it out as quick as they move it in, and this car does just that. Coupled with a great front mounted inter-cooler, these two items offer the biggest performance gains on this car. The engine is stock, from top to bottom. I have a BUNCH of spares, from turbos to cams, to a head to belts, hoses, a/c compressor, valve covers..etc. Tires are great, just shy of new...rears are 255 Nexxen 3000's, front 215's...rears on 10" XXR wheels, front on 8.5's. Battery is one month old. Because of no muffler, the car will be sold as is. It will be up to you to get it "street legal".
I tried to be as thorough as possible, but it is likely I might have missed something along the way. If that's the case I will edit the ad to reflect such. I think I have been very fair with the pricing, with the amount of work that's been done and the work that needs to be done, taken into consideration. I am not going to budge much on the price, so be forewarned.
Things needed are mostly cosmetic...like mouldings and touch up paint. I have gone back and forth about finishing the car, but am really looking to get into something else.
These E36 ///M3's are truly an investment. With a little bit of money, you could have a great return.
I will be making a video sometime this weekend that details the entire car.
AGAIN, trades:
**1990 to 1993 Mustang LX ( prefer trunk model) 5.0
**interesting muscle cars
**please, no tuner cars
**partial trades of high end toys that go boom
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