Let's talk front suspension geometry.

[Rally]

So there are a bunch of low cars here. Let's have a discussion about what you've done to correct the control arm and tie-rod angles. Whether it's drop spindles, ball joint extenders, or control arm spacers, this is the place.

My control arm ball joints are binding due to the extreme angle so they're holding me up from going any lower. I'm trying to figure out a solution to fix the front geometry a bit.

What solutions have you guys found?

[M.Burroughs]

I've simply left mine alone.





There is an upper and lower control arm on the front of the e28. The only options, assuming you wanted your ball joints to sit vertically as intended is to do some cutting and welding. There's really no interference though. Assuming you tighten your control arms with load on the suspension, there's no enhanced wear there. I've yet to have issues with the ball joints.
As far as the geometry itself, I don't know enough to speak about it, but the only thing that changes is the angles of your ball joints and control arms. I can't invision a way to change it...

but again, I have no reason to. The car's oil pan and frame would be a problem long before any suspension interference.

[NikDev]

I need to figure this out too, my arms on my car are no longer pointing the right direction. Its a car I will keep the handling but at the same time get it lowest possible

I am thinking a spacer to lower the ball joint, are there any backsides to this?

[Rally]

I am thinking a spacer to lower the ball joint, are there any backsides to this?

The only downside is that you will get bumpsteer. The easy solution is to ALSO put a spacer on the tie rod. You want to make sure your control arm and your tie rod are parallel.

Mike, you're right. I'm not sure how you'd correct the angle on that setup.

[Bimmerteck]

small correction to the above info- the arc of travel of the tie rod and arc of travel of the spindle must be parallel. The static parts do not actually need to physically be parallel.


On my last car I had some bits and machining done to mount the tie rods inverted. Brought the angles back to right near stock and fixed the steering issues. Currently I'm looking at a modified J spec rear subframe, and slotting the mounts for adjustability. and up front I will likely change to a modified lowercontrol arm to dial in a hair more castor and give me a little more breathing room between the BBK and my ball joints.

Erik

[chev_chelios]

correct me if i am wrong, but here's something i thought might work for people having issues with balls joint. i noticed on my square that the tie-rod was pinched on the edges of the ball joint due to the angle creating a metal on metal contact & excessive parts wear. so could you make some washers that would act as shims that you could stick between the ball joint and the control arm? sort of the same concept as shims to get your mad camberz on but this would actually angle your ball joint to a point to where there would be less stress on it decreasing it from wearing out premature. you might have to bevel out your control arm hole a little & weld the washer/shim in place but i can't see that doing any harm as long as you didn't grind away too much and cause the part to fail structurally. yes/no?

if you wanted to get real serious, you could weld up the mounting holes in your control arms and drill out new holes at your preferred angle as well but that would be a little more work since you'd probably have to remove parts completely.

[Tuck&Poke]

So with my 4 link front i can add a spacer to the lower control arms to correct angle, but what would i do about the uppers? Adding a spacer would just make the angle more extreme. Aside from a spindle with corrected geometry i dont see another solution. And is it bad to have the lower and upper arms at different angles? Also, if i just flip the tie rod without messing with the control arms would that keep the arc of travel the same as the control arms? I'm a huge noob at suspension geometry, but i wouldnt mind working to correct it.

[kramerbuccs24]

Roll center adjusters ("spacer" between the ball joint and up) on all 4 corners and a front tie rod flip kit (from "entering" the hub on the top to "entering" at the bottom) seem to serve me very well even when "extremely" lowered, control arms and tie rods are just about parallel. I've yet to drive the car to find out how she behaves but on paper I'm a-okay.

[95naSTA]

I have some very noticeable vibration when I take tight turns at speed. I think that it's from the outer side axle binding from control arm being pulled up and in under compression.

The reason I'm thinking it's control arm releated is I already raised my engine and trans up 1.5". So, the axles really shouldn't be too bad as far as angles go. But if they're being pushed in, as well as up, they would be more likely to bind.

My stock lower balljoint looks like this:

And on the car (1st pic took the pic while fixing CV boot)



Do you guys think it would be bad news to add a steel spacer and stronger bolts?