E39 coils

[Kielan]

Oh lol. Fronts will rest the bumper on The ground with 17s. Rears will tuck 17s easy. By far the best option for e46s and amazing ride quality.

[PavelK313]

Something doesnt look right.
Its hella high for being maxed out on any coils.

[userix]

When removing helper springs and cutting bump stops its important not to run out of the shock travel.

In short, sounds like you need new coils

I'd be keen to see a picture of how low your car is userix, sounds like it's on the ground

Here are some pics. It's a good 3" off the ground, not even close to slam. The fronts are pretty much maxed (one thread from the bottom). I know I can remove the helper spring and bumpstop to get it lower, but wouldn't I run the risk of bottoming out the front shock now? The rear is completely maxed with the perch still in.

[PavelK313]

Not sure why ? It's the truth..

LOLing at how easy it is.
Will they put car on the floor?

[Anonymoose]

In short, sounds like you need new coils

I'd be keen to see a picture of how low your car is userix, sounds like it's on the ground

[Kielan]

Not sure why ? It's the truth..

[PavelK313]

To slam an E46, with a great ride. Here is the recipe.

Buy BC coils with 9k/10k rates, install. Congrats you now have a slammed E46 with a fantastic ride.

[Kielan]

To slam an E46, with a great ride. Here is the recipe.

Buy BC coils with 9k/10k rates, install. Congrats you now have a slammed E46 with a fantastic ride.

[PavelK313]

By running out of shock travel, you mean bottoming out the shock? I think this is what is happening or going to if I remove the perch and bumpstops all together. It seems that the shock tube is traveling really close to my RSMs right now, which I think the rear KW Koni yellow shocks are going to bottom out and be blown fast.

I dont know much about slamming E46, but I know when my stupid ass felt lazy to swap in stiffer springs couse it was only going to be 200 mile drive. I came back home with blown shocks.

[userix]

Userix - There are no bumpstops in the rear and you wouldn't be hitting anything if you still have the perches in there. Your shocks might be maxed out if you are using the standard pair which is what it sounds like is happening.

You can remove the rear adjusters with no problems and although you can pull the springs out when you jack the car up, it will never have time to extend that far when driving especially if you have the correct length shocks.

For the front you can remove the helper springs and cut the bumpstops in half, this again will make the springs flop around when you jack the car up but during driving the weight of the car will keep them in place. Just make sure you get them sitting properly when you're lowering the car after jacking.

The rear on my 323Ci 2000 does have bumpstops. I have KW v2 coilovers set, so the rear shocks are KW (Koni yellows) and I assume are matched to my springs and probably shorter than stock shocks and the KW bumpstops are shorter than stock. I did the ziptie trick to see how high up my shocks travel when hitting large bumps and when the car is parked on level ground. The ziptie goes all the way up into the bumpstop already (probably why one of the is already mutilated). I heard riding without bumpstops is a bad idea because of the possibility of bottoming out the shock, since the purpose of bumpstops is to prevent bottoming out shocks. Seeing how the shock travel is already so short and is traveling into the bumpstop and destroying them, wouldn't removing the perch assembly mean that the shock would bottom out now?

What type of setup are you running, moose?

When removing helper springs and cutting bump stops its important not to run out of the shock travel.

By running out of shock travel, you mean bottoming out the shock? I think this is what is happening or going to if I remove the perch and bumpstops all together. It seems that the shock tube is traveling really close to my RSMs right now, which I think the rear KW Koni yellow shocks are going to bottom out and be blown fast.

[PavelK313]

^ cut your bump stops in half, and see if that helps. if not, take the perch out.
for the front you can cut the bump stops and remove the helper spring.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-tir...kg-mm-lbs.html

im running 911 lbs pr inch front and 912 lbs pr inch rear, its fine. tho wish the fronts were around 850ish.

Userix - There are no bumpstops in the rear and you wouldn't be hitting anything if you still have the perches in there. Your shocks might be maxed out if you are using the standard pair which is what it sounds like is happening.

You can remove the rear adjusters with no problems and although you can pull the springs out when you jack the car up, it will never have time to extend that far when driving especially if you have the correct length shocks.

For the front you can remove the helper springs and cut the bumpstops in half, this again will make the springs flop around when you jack the car up but during driving the weight of the car will keep them in place. Just make sure you get them sitting properly when you're lowering the car after jacking.

When removing helper springs and cutting bump stops its important not to run out of the shock travel.

[PavelK313]

the jack points under the sides,,,yes they do scrape, not on everyday basis but when the driveway is at an off angle it does,or i approach it wrong....
and yes the 14k/and 10k is what i have and its fine,,stiff but doable...

All 4 of mine are still in place.

[Anonymoose]

Userix - There are no bumpstops in the rear and you wouldn't be hitting anything if you still have the perches in there. Your shocks might be maxed out if you are using the standard pair which is what it sounds like is happening.

You can remove the rear adjusters with no problems and although you can pull the springs out when you jack the car up, it will never have time to extend that far when driving especially if you have the correct length shocks.

For the front you can remove the helper springs and cut the bumpstops in half, this again will make the springs flop around when you jack the car up but during driving the weight of the car will keep them in place. Just make sure you get them sitting properly when you're lowering the car after jacking.

[Zic]

^ cut your bump stops in half, and see if that helps. if not, take the perch out.
for the front you can cut the bump stops and remove the helper spring.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-tir...kg-mm-lbs.html

im running 911 lbs pr inch front and 912 lbs pr inch rear, its fine. tho wish the fronts were around 850ish.

[userix]

Sup, I am looking to slam my E46 323Ci 2000 on KW v2. So far, they are maxed out in the rear and front, but I am looking to go lower. I read in other forums of people riding without the rear perch assembly. I tried to attempt that once, but realized that the spring was too loose. I was able to yank out the spring without having to disconnect the shock tower. That seems extremely unsafe especially if I were to hit a large bump on the freeway at high speeds. I know paval has a custom setup, but how exactly is the rear set up on paval's? Do you have a perch assembly for the rear, or is it just the spring sitting in there. If the spring is super short, how do you keep it in place? Another problem I encountered when I removed the perch assembly is that I am pretty much riding on my bumpstops. Heck even with the perch in at the lowest settings, my rear passenger bumpstop is completely destroyed. So driving without the perch would mean I am sitting on bumpstops at all time, which is probably not good either. If I were to remove the bumpstop, I then run the risk of bottoming out my shocks and eventually blowing them out. Man, so many potential problems, yet I want to get it as low as paval's drop. For all those that have slammed e46s, let me know how you guys are dealing with these issues.