SSR Professors Re-Weld??

[Lacrious]

hey guys what's happening?
I've got a set of professors and had bought wider lips and everything is ready to go.
i came through the fact that SSR's come welded lips and barrels from factory and i split them to put on new lips,
so my question is should i re-weld them or it's ok if i just re-assemble them with shellac and silicon? i would put on shellac between the barrel and lip then sillicon all over the cave afterward.
so what do you guys think?? is it safe to just tighten them up without welding or not?
the car if that matters is a 97 supra weights about 1500 kg's.
i need testimonials from people worked on these type of wheels..
thanks all ....

[KarlSpackler]

I would weld them. I say the same thing when people do this with BBS LM. That is how the engineer intended them to be built and you aren't a structural engineer I assume.

I have built both BBS LM and SSR SP1 fyi and re-welded both times

[zoo]

I would weld them. I say the same thing when people do this with BBS LM. That is how the engineer intended them to be built and you aren't a structural engineer I assume.

I have built both BBS LM and SSR SP1 fyi and re-welded both times

You welded LMs? What part?
Also, the whole structural engineer/intent argument is not held in any regard here, surely you know that. I mean 16" RS faces were never intended to be used in 18" wheel application, cars are not supposed to be that low, suspension/steering/camber is not set up as the engineers intended, etc.


Lacrious, on the SP1s - what hardware are you using? Reusing factory M6 bolts?

[callmegti]

how did you break the weld? i have a set of ssr professors that i want to relip but i found that they were welded.

[Lacrious]

yes i broke the weld and it was so tricky because the weld was good enough to not know when you have to stop cutting. you have to be real careful as i already broke the old lip and it's not useable, i decided to not weld them again. will assemble them and let you know.

[KarlSpackler]

You welded LMs? What part?
Also, the whole structural engineer/intent argument is not held in any regard here, surely you know that. I mean 16" RS faces were never intended to be used in 18" wheel application, cars are not supposed to be that low, suspension/steering/camber is not set up as the engineers intended, etc.


Lacrious, on the SP1s - what hardware are you using? Reusing factory M6 bolts?

No, I don't know that. Please explain as your argument doesn't hit home for me. Changing a wheel from 16" to 18" is different than changing how it is structurally held together. ... most 2 piece welded wheels are only 20-25 hole vs. 36+ on true 3 piece wheels.
I guess my whole car is riding on these and I don't want one coming apart at 140. All 3 sets of 2 piece wheels I have redone I have rewelded with no issues so why mess with what works?

Not saying it's going to literally fall apart but a little Crack can have you lose air quick which is bad news on a stretched tirw

how did you break the weld? i have a set of ssr professors that i want to relip but i found that they were welded.

Machine shop. 150$

[zoo]

While I agree that using 20(or fewer) m6 bolts to hold a 3 piece wheel together may seem like a risky idea, there are respectable companies that have built just that.
Fikse wheels use 20 1/4"-28 fasteners, and they thread them directly into the aluminum face, no insert.

The "was not engineered that way" does not convince me because engineers do not run companies.
Welding the halves together could be a cost cutting measure, or something that speeds up assembly. There are welded wheels with 30+ bolts, at that point the weld is redundant.

Yes, losing air is less of an issue when the halves are welded. Proper sealing takes care of leaks as well.

[MommysLittleMonster]

If they're going on a car that's going to make any kind of power (and, assuming that they're going on a Supra, I'd say it's a safe bet), I would probably go the extra mile and get them re-welded.

Do you have any pictures of how your wheel was taken apart, and how you plan on putting it back together for reference?

[bigrig]

is there any risk of discoloration in rewelding a chromed lip?

[KarlSpackler]

While I agree that using 20(or fewer) m6 bolts to hold a 3 piece wheel together may seem like a risky idea, there are respectable companies that have built just that.
Fikse wheels use 20 1/4"-28 fasteners, and they thread them directly into the aluminum face, no insert.

The "was not engineered that way" does not convince me because engineers do not run companies.
Welding the halves together could be a cost cutting measure, or something that speeds up assembly. There are welded wheels with 30+ bolts, at that point the weld is redundant.

Yes, losing air is less of an issue when the halves are welded. Proper sealing takes care of leaks as well.

Engineers don't run companies.... your right but nothing goes to market without their stamp of approval either. I live in a world of engineers and yes sometimes they can drive you mad, they have a reason for everything they do. Engineers are basically calculators of risk and making sure there is none. If you change on of the main variables in their calculation everything should be re-looked at to see if it still meets spec. 9 times out of 10 it is still fine but do you want to be the 1 to find out?

The Fikse argument is a bad one for your case. They thread their bolts which gives you WAY more hold then a bolt/nut combo. At the extemes, the bolt has play in the hole because it is smaller than the hole so pressure is what is holding the pieces together where as a threaded bolt is a much tighter fit. Could you through bolt some fikse faces and be fine, probably but their engineers would tell you not to

is there any risk of discoloration in rewelding a chromed lip?

Not that I have ever seen. Could be I guess. Don't know