Clear coat on lips? Blitz Techno Speeds

[ChrisJuliano]

I just purchased wheels, figured I would polish them up and get the entire lip clear coated. I noticed these wheels have a clear coated edge of lip, about 1" in around the curved area then the flat area is not clear coated.

I tried aircraft stripper and it did not even make it bubble, sanded it down with 800 grit and applied 3-4 more coats waiting 15 minutes inbetween and nothing happened.

Any ideas? The flat part and the clear coated portion were sanded with 800, you can see the direct line where the clear coat ends.

Here is before sanding may help show.


This is after.

[zoo]

Im fairly certain these are not cleared from the factory. Likely anodized.

[Icana4dit]

It looks like someone polished the rim edge to remove any curb rash, and left the factory anodize on the flat portion of the lip.

[KyleAnderson]

It looks like someone polished the rim edge to remove any curb rash, and left the factory anodize on the flat portion of the lip.

Spot-on. The edge was polished, likely to repair curb rash.

[zoo]

We need some details here, sports7 like what kind of wheels and what amount of damage

Goddamn spammers are getting clever.

[ChrisJuliano]

These are enkei lips, blitz centers, from factory.

All 4 have the exact same line, in the exact same location, if its factory anodized how could I tell?

[ChrisJuliano]

You can spot a direct line where the clear turns into exposed aluminum.

[ChrisJuliano]

I found that this greased lightening product removes anodozing, so I tried using that one a wheel and it did not do anything.

Here is a photo, the wheel still has the protective clearcoat, not really sure what my options are.


It looks like in the photo it has no clear coat due to the scratches but all the scratches are in the clear and not the metal under.





EDIT: I showed a local wheel refinishing shop pictures and they said its bright dip anodized.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

The Greased Lightning trick removes the dye from an anodized surface, but does not remove the aluminum oxide layer.

Caswell offers an anodize stripper that appears to get good reviews. I have no experience with it, but it's inexpensive.

Otherwise, a solution of heated phosphoric acid, chromic acid, and water will remove the aluminum oxide layer without damaging the aluminum underneath. You can find the relevant concentrations in Military Specification MIL-A-8625F. You will want to take appropriate precautions, as both acids are extremely caustic and form fumes at high temperatures.

A sodium hydroxide solution will also work, but tends to etch the aluminum underneath.

[ChrisJuliano]

Thanks so much! I emailed caswell I am going to see what they have to say.

I am ready to just sandblast these and repolish, would take forever but so sick of trying things that do not work.

[336motorsports]

You gave me the wrong email. Please email me info@ewheelworks.com