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  • SSR vienna questions.

    So I bought these SSR's on ebay last week from a guy in japan. I cant lie, I've ran rep wheels for a while and dont know much much legit stuff. I know some one who had the work euroline s2h's(same exact wheel) and was under the impression that all Euroline and Viennas are a welded wheel.

    I got the wheels and was texting a friend of mine pics and he asked for better photos of the rear. To mine and his surprise there appears to be NO welds on the wheels, also there is a grey sealant around the seam where the barrel and lip meet.

    If anyone has any info or insight on these wheels it would be a great help. I have no plans of a rebuild, would just be nice to know in the future if I ever want too.

    and not sure if it makes a difference but specs are 4x100 17x7.5 +30, and 17x8 +24









    Now I had ZERO intentions in changing the specs. Ive been wanting something a little less agressive and these are almost perfect for what I was looking for.

  • #2
    There may be a weld under that sealant. I've never taken apart a set of those exact wheels, but every set of Vienna Kreiss I've seen has had the barrel and lip welded together, covered by smooth grey sealant, and with a separate face. I'd bet that's what you've got going on here.



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    • #3
      Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
      There may be a weld under that sealant. I've never taken apart a set of those exact wheels, but every set of Vienna Kreiss I've seen has had the barrel and lip welded together, covered by smooth grey sealant, and with a separate face. I'd bet that's what you've got going on here.
      I concur.
      Same experience. the sealant is there in case the weld is not air tight.


      OZ, MSW, ABT, Carlsson, etc 10 point bolt tools info

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      • #4
        cool thanks for the info guys.

        would something like these not be to bad to have sent out and either refinished or rebuilt?

        Also does that mean I could also just remove the face and have them sent out to be re finished without needing to re seal the wheel or anything?

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        • #5
          Whether they're worth paying to have refinished is up to you, but they are a quality wheel. Were it me, the only thing I'd have a professional do is clean up the curb damage on the lips, and I'd handle the rest myself. But, I'm a cheap ass, and I don't mind putting elbow grease into projects. YMMV.

          You can disassemble the face from the lip and barrel assembly without having to reseal the wheels, correct.

          EDIT: You'll need a triple-square bit to remove the bolts, FYI. They're easy enough to come by, but I don't remember the size off the top of my head.
          Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 12-14-2014, 04:25 PM.



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          • #6
            awesome thanks again! hah im cheap too! Ive done all my own work on my car including paint and everything! so its something I will probably try :P but the lips are chrome, so I was going to try and fix the curb dmg and just polish the exposed areas. And there are a couple paint flakes on 2 of the wheels, and some bubbling on the others.

            all in all I am extremely happy with them. Only cost me 680$ shipped from japan

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            • #7
              Are you sure they're chromed? A lot of SSRs have polished and cleared lips.

              If the lips are chrome, you're going to either want to have the chrome stripped and polish the metal underneath, or have the entire lip rechromed after sanding out the damage. With that much curb damage, you'll likely see a line of the copper plating under the chrome surface where the chrome ends and the polished section begins, and you'll probably have peeling chrome in no time if you try to just sand and polish.
              Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 12-14-2014, 04:51 PM.



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              • #8
                the reason I think its chrome is because the lips are VERY reflective,

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                • #9
                  And they may well be chrome.

                  But, reflectivity is not diagnostic of surface treatment. Mirror polished aluminum can be every bit as reflective as that.



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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
                    And they may well be chrome.

                    But, reflectivity is not diagnostic of surface treatment. Mirror polished aluminum can be every bit as reflective as that.
                    and im guessing a quality company like SSR could/would do that

                    ok next step..... figuring out the lips

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                    • #11
                      OK so today I was able to take a closer look at the lip and the "rim" area. It appears to have 2 different finish's. I went out to the garage and grabbed the mothers. I took a Q tip and rubbed a smaller area on the edge of the rim and it turned black. Making that a non cleared aluminum area. I then took a new Q tip and tested it on a small area of the flat surface of the lip and it stayed white. So its either clear polished aluminum, or chrome. I dont see them clearing just part of the lip. But heres a before pic showing a clear line in the 2 different finishes, then a small portion that I polished the sh!t out of with mothers.



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                      • #12
                        It's hard to tell what's going on there, but I don't see a line of copper plating, so I doubt there's any chrome there. I'd guess that these wheels have had curb damage repaired before, and the clearcoat has been removed in that section.

                        Were these mine, I'd disassemble them and remove every trace of clear from the lips, then either bring them to a high polish and leave them raw, or have clear powder put over the lips as per your preference.



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                        • #13
                          Yep, agree with Sam on this. They probably had some curb rash repaired, leaving the outer edge of the lip bare. They don't appear to be chromed; I would expect the inside of the lip to be shinier if they were.

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                          • #14
                            cool thanks for the input guys, helps alot!

                            i'll probably just dremel down, and sand out as much of the rash as I can and just run them as is this season.

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                            • #15
                              If you're going to use power tools, I would use a DA rather than a dremel.



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